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Fairing Lug Repair


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#1 leehenty

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Posted 13 February 2024 - 11:49 am

Ive been trying out the high viscosity hard setting UV activated resins for this. It works better it you l ay down thinner beads of resin and harden each layer.

Edited by leehenty, 13 February 2024 - 12:55 pm.

2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, BikeVis bullet LED's under front  nose,Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins Adventure Spec Tool tube under rear rack, left and right sides with custom alloy mounts.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.

#2 Nog

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Posted 13 February 2024 - 12:01 pm

I've never had success over the long term using resin etc.

 

I always go for a 'plastic weld' now by melting all the plastic together and using cable ties like filler rod.

 

You can even melt strands of lock wire (or similar) in to reinforce.  So far the repairs have outlasted any using glues/resins etc  :good:



#3 fixitsan

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Posted 14 February 2024 - 10:52 pm

Same as Nog, I find the resins usually crack pretty soon after using. The vibrations and the clamping tension seems to get the better of it, but I there's probably plenty of products out there I didn't test either.

 

Melting works, and 'steel staples' (heated electrically till they glow red hot, and then you embed them into your workpiece to stitch pieces together. A cheap Chinese kit was done me well for a couple of years.

Cheap kits are £15 on ebay, may or may not be fused. May or may not be the correct fuse. Live may be neutral. But it's just 15 quid !

 

They work like this


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