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Tuning the 900 using the dashboard buttons


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#1 Guinness

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Posted 24 May 2006 - 06:20 pm

taken from http://www.factorypr...ing_TDM900.html

QUOTE
Augmented TDM 900 FI stock ECU tuning procedures, originally from shop manual -

(actually, the base for this was originally pulled by some user who took it from David Saxton's article on the internet's best TDM site: Carpe-TDM.

I rephrased and added some to the original text to update it to current experience - Marc

REGULATION OF THE AIR VOLUME OF THE EXHAUST GASES

NOTE: To set the density of carbon monoxide (CO) in the exhaust gas.
(translated into common tuning terms, this means that you are adjusting the fuel injection to increase or decrease the amount of fuel delivered. Marc)


Procedure
To activate modes "CO" and "DIAG":
Press together the "SELECT" and "RESET" keys, and turn the ignition switch on "ON".
(NOTE: It takes ~eight seconds after turning on the ignition switch - until "DIAG" appears on the dash display.)
In order to get to the "CO" mode: (so you can adjust fuel delivery)
Push "SELECT" in order to toggle the display between the "DIAG" mode to the "CO" mode, and vice versa.
Push together the "SELECT" and "RESET" keys for two seconds and the word "C1" should appear on the display.
(On the 900, C1 means the left side cylinder 1)
In order to select the cylinder to tune:
Press "SELECT" or "RESET" in order to select the cylinder (C1 or C2). Toggle between each to select the cylinder required.
When the required cylinder number is showing on the display ("C1" or "C2") -
Press together the "SELECT" and "RESET" keys for two seconds and the current value for the selected cylinder will be displayed (eg. "9").
Write down current values for each cylinder so you know where you started !!
To change the volume of carbon monoxide in the exhaust gas: (translate: to adjust fuel for best running and best power....)
On the display is shown a figure between -128 and 128 where -128 is very lean and 128 is very rich.
Press "RESET" button in order to lower the numerical value and decrease the amount of fuel delivered to LEAN the mixture.
Press "SELECT" in order to increase the numeric value and increase the amount of fuel delivererd / RICHEN the mixture.
Press together the "SELECT' and " RESET" keys in order to return to the selected cylinder number ("C1" or "C2"),
and go back to 3 to tune the other cylinder.
To SAVE the settings, turn "OFF" the ignition switch.
Now - all that being said.... Additional Key points -
When you are pushing buttons and increasing or decreasing the C1 or C2 numbers, you can hear the engine change exhaust note, showing that he fuel delivery is changing as your are changing the number values.
That's called "REALTIME" fuel changes.

If you have a dyno like an EC997, you can watch the engine power smoothness (Flux Value) change as you change the fuel rates at "cruise" throttle and rpm levels.

The better you have the mixture, the smoother the engine will be. (but we all knew that).

Also - the 900 uses c1 for the cylinder 1 (left) and c2 for cylinder 2 (right).
That's not necessarily true for other Yamaha's. The "kit" 600 and 1000 ECU's have tuning "ranges", based on throttle positions and rpms.

The street Yamaha's, R6, R1, Warrior all tune similarly to this, but you need to know the "secret" handshake to get into "CO" mode......


#2 SteveGlover

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Posted 24 May 2006 - 08:45 pm

I didn't realise you could adjust the CO with the engine running, but yes you can, I've just tried it. Get the clocks into CO adjustment mode first, then start her up.

#3 Clive

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Posted 18 June 2006 - 12:48 pm

Perhaps I'm missing something but when looking at the value between 128 and -128 what figure should we be aiming for? - 0?

#4 Minty Hippo

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Posted 18 June 2006 - 04:08 pm

QUOTE(Clive @ Sun 18th Jun 2006, 11:33 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Perhaps I'm missing something but when looking at the value between 128 and -128 what figure should we be aiming for? - 0?


Mine are 10 and 10, but might have another fiddle as its not perfect by any means. Here some more:
http://www.carpe-tdm...p?showtopic=907

#5 Arf1

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Posted 23 July 2006 - 01:49 pm

Thank you guys. My TDM900 has always seemed to run lumpy. After re setting the readings from 10 & 18 to 30 & 35 its running a treat. good.gif

#6 wicklamulla

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Posted 23 July 2006 - 10:20 pm

QUOTE(Arf1 @ Sun 23rd Jul 2006, 02:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thank you guys. My TDM900 has always seemed to run lumpy. After re setting the readings from 10 & 18 to 30 & 35 its running a treat. good.gif


welcome and well done !!!! i like yella 900's good.gif

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

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#7 Pict

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Posted 24 July 2006 - 05:52 am

QUOTE(Arf1 @ Sun 23rd Jul 2006, 02:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thank you guys. My TDM900 has always seemed to run lumpy. After re setting the readings from 10 & 18 to 30 & 35 its running a treat. good.gif


Thanks for the reminder - weekends have come and gone and I keep getting bogged down in the domestic stuff. Can you keep an eye on your consumption figs by the way, and see if they shift much?

QUOTE(wicklamulla @ Sun 23rd Jul 2006, 11:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
welcome and well done !!!! i like yella 900's good.gif


But not with big yellow lower fairings! smile.gif smile.gif

Edited by Pict, 24 July 2006 - 05:50 am.

Dinotrike.jpg "It's a TDM, Jim, but not as we know it"

www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAHmEWim3to

 

Diamond black TDM 900A TRIKE, 2006 ABS model converted by Trike Design (Caerphilly, South Wales) prior to first registration in March 2007.


#8 wicklamulla

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Posted 25 July 2006 - 12:12 am

QUOTE(Pict @ Mon 24th Jul 2006, 06:37 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks for the reminder - weekends have come and gone and I keep getting bogged down in the domestic stuff. Can you keep an eye on your consumption figs by the way, and see if they shift much?
But not with big yellow lower fairings! smile.gif smile.gif



agree !

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#9 Guest_RSROCKET_*

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Posted 16 April 2007 - 08:15 pm

QUOTE(Minty Hippo @ Sun 18th Jun 2006, 04:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Mine are 10 and 10, but might have another fiddle as its not perfect by any means. Here some more:
http://www.carpe-tdm...p?showtopic=907


Can somebody tell me re the CO levels, is lower the number the weaker the mixture? or vice versa?

#10 torbay

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 06:50 pm

Well I read this before I signed up for the forum, and have just tinkered with mine....the stock settings were 0 and 0 meaning that the main dealer it was purchased from had never set it up properly ????? or does it loose the setting with no battery in the bike???? any way played around and took the lumpyness out of the tickover and wait and see what happens when I ride it !!! ( 10 and 10). This would also explain why one header pipe looks on the verge of melting i would imagine.

#11 Harrrumpie

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 08:53 pm

Hello,

When I read this and see that some CO settings for the Cilinders C1 ( left cilinder) and C2 ( right cilinder) are the same, it worrys me a bit. blink.gif
Why?: Because they have to have differend settings on the cilinders. This is due to the different heath devolepment in the cilinders when it is in use ( due to coolant system and riding winds)
By example: Mine are set to C1=13 and C2=21.
So i was experimenting with this settings too and pushed them up equally by 5 points on both on them.
I've ended with C1-23 and C2=31. My conclusion, so far, is that the machine runs smoother between 3 and 4000rpm and has a little bit more "Kick" in the 6th gear when speeding up.
Also the consumption of the liquid gold is speeding up huh.gif
So, for whats its worth: It can bring al little bit more smoothness to your bike. But remember: These settings work for my bike and are not the same for other bikes!.

When you really want to expirience what it does to your bike you have to put it on a power-bank so you can see whats doing with power.

Greeeeeeeeeeeetzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz,

Harrrumpie yeahyeahyeah.gif

#12 Sparra

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 11:34 pm

Yeh I know it's dumb question, but I am going to ask anyway. Which cylinder is the left one? As you look at the bike from the front or as you sit on the bike? If someone can answer this then I should be able to work out which is the right one.........maybe.
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#13 Harrrumpie

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Posted 14 May 2007 - 01:57 pm

QUOTE(Sparra @ Mon 14th May 2007, 01:19 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yeh I know it's dumb question, but I am going to ask anyway. Which cylinder is the left one? As you look at the bike from the front or as you sit on the bike? If someone can answer this then I should be able to work out which is the right one.........maybe.


Better to ask a dumb question than make a expensive mistake rotflmmfao.gif

When you sit on the bike C1 is the left cilinder and C2 the right one.

Greeeeeeeeeeeeeetzzzzzzzzzzzzz,

Harrrumpie rolleyes.gif

#14 Sparra

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Posted 14 May 2007 - 10:59 pm

QUOTE(Harrrumpie @ Mon 14th May 2007, 11:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Better to ask a dumb question than make a expensive mistake rotflmmfao.gif

When you sit on the bike C1 is the left cilinder and C2 the right one.

Greeeeeeeeeeeeeetzzzzzzzzzzzzz,

Harrrumpie rolleyes.gif



Thanks for that. Will check on the weekend what mine are set to.
2002 TDM900. BMW 1150gs handguards, Oxford heated grips, Staintune exhausts, airbox mod, re-moulded seat, bar risers, Powerlec adaptor, bluetooth, 2way comms, K & N filter, Nonfango hard luggage, center stand, polished alloy wheels, (I'm not gunna)crash knobs

#15 Peter Watts

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 10:43 am

QUOTE(Sparra @ Mon 14th May 2007, 11:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks for that. Will check on the weekend what mine are set to.


Can anyone tell me what the numbers stand for - are they just dimensionless numbers or are they a % pr per mil above or below a nominal setting?

I went to Wales last week just before the floods (my son doing a TDR250 track day) and it was hot in Cardiff and in slow traffic my 9er got very hot, rad fans came on a few times. I was surprised. I would have only expected that if the bike was statioary left idling. It seems to be running too hot = lean? (At low throttle openings?)

I got fantastic fuel consumption on this trip - riding from 50 - 70 mph over 200 miles I got 13 miles per liter = 60 mpg. Again, too lean?

Do these CO settings mostly affect idle, or over the whole speed range? I would rather run slightly rich than slightly lean.

Peter

#16 Pict

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 10:56 am

QUOTE(Peter Watts @ Tue 24th Jul 2007, 11:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
............... in slow traffic my 9er got very hot, rad fans came on a few times...................
..............I got fantastic fuel consumption................60 mpg. Again, too lean?

My 900 tended to fan itself more aftwr Id fitted a s/s rad guard - serves as a warning about these things, but has coped so far.

The fuel consumption has always been in at least the 60's (NB Quartermaster has clocked 82 mpg), and perhaps the fact that this continued after fitting a Power Commander 111 will give some reassurance that the mix isn't grossly lean?

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Diamond black TDM 900A TRIKE, 2006 ABS model converted by Trike Design (Caerphilly, South Wales) prior to first registration in March 2007.


#17 BigC

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Posted 05 November 2007 - 01:49 pm

just checked my CO levels which are:
-5/13

have changed them to 0/18 for the ride home to see if i notice the difference.

then a bit more tinkering will be required me thinks.

Edited by BigC, 05 November 2007 - 01:54 pm.


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#18 v-tec

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 10:41 pm

[Hi carpe TDM
I normally just read the forum as there are some interesting subjects on here,but i have a question regarding CO adjustment on the 900
I have an 03 model with only 2500 miles on the clock .
The engine runs very sweet for a standard bike i have no problems to complain about and i get approx 55MPG which i am happy with.
The air box mod has been done and it did make it smoother,but i read on here that people enter the CO adjusting mode and just because there settings for c1 and c2 may be different and uneven they just round them off and up or down and ride off not knowing what the CO has been set to, surely this is something
that should be set up on a meter , and how can you tell what the CO is when you measure it at the exhaust ends after its been through the CAT and there is a link pipe joining the two exhaust together how do you get an accurate reading- should this not be measured before the CATS ??
C1 on mine is 16 and c2 is 17 but 16 and 17 what . who sets this the factory or the dealer on the PDI or is it just pot luck?
Any veiws on this would be much appreciated

many thanks v-tec



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Posted 26 February 2008 - 07:58 am

QUOTE(v-tec @ Mon 25th Feb 2008, 10:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
[Hi carpe TDM
I normally just read the forum as there are some interesting subjects on here,but i have a question regarding CO adjustment on the 900
I have an 03 model with only 2500 miles on the clock .
The engine runs very sweet for a standard bike i have no problems to complain about and i get approx 55MPG which i am happy with.
The air box mod has been done and it did make it smoother,but i read on here that people enter the CO adjusting mode and just because there settings for c1 and c2 may be different and uneven they just round them off and up or down and ride off not knowing what the CO has been set to, surely this is something
that should be set up on a meter , and how can you tell what the CO is when you measure it at the exhaust ends after its been through the CAT and there is a link pipe joining the two exhaust together how do you get an accurate reading- should this not be measured before the CATS ??
C1 on mine is 16 and c2 is 17 but 16 and 17 what . who sets this the factory or the dealer on the PDI or is it just pot luck?
Any veiws on this would be much appreciated

many thanks v-tec


I think I asked this earlier.
The CO is adjusted by Yamaha before it's packed and sent according to my local dealer. For that reason I just added 10 to each to keep them even.
I guess they adjust the injector dwell time or/and allow the co limit to be raised.

#20 toddy

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Posted 27 February 2008 - 07:50 am

From my limited understanding, you're right in saying that it would be pointless putting the sensor probe after the cats. When I got mine done I undid the access bolts between the headers and the cats and put the probe in the hole. It appears that there is such a variation in everyone’s final settings that a proper reading needs to be done. The readings between the left and right don’t necessarily match up either...


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