17 replies to this topic

[Jim55]

IV just seen a 900 for sale but it's got 88000 miles ,du think that's too high

[ChrisG]

Not necessarily, but depends on the price and condition.  Several people have had generators go at around that mileage, but generally they're very reliable bikes.

 

Generator writeup here from CelticBiker who took his to well over 100,000, including a lot of pillion miles.  He also had the shock mount snap but don't think that's been an issue for anyone else. 

http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=16653

 

Matlock is also on over 100k miles and MarkyMark went to astronomical mileages on his so worth having a poke around here for posts by them

Edited by ChrisG, 27 October 2020 - 04:57 pm.

[dablik]

Also Fixitsan who bought a 9r with 90000 plus miles, he may have replaced the alternator on that !!  go for it..

[Matlock]

Yep, 88k isn't too excessive and if it's got evidence of being looked after, it should be pretty trouble-free. Generators tend to go around 60k-80k it seems, but they can be rewound to a better standard and so should last thereafter. Look out for the usual worn bearings and cables and the brakes are prone to seizing up if the bike is used in winter and they're not regularly cleaned. Rear shocks are decent quality, but won't last 80k miles, so if it still has the original rear shock, budget for a new one. If your annual mileage isn't too high and you can find one that's been looked after with decent tyres, chain & sprockets then you should have some pretty cheap biking for a few years  .

[Jim55]

I bought it guys,new clutch, kept inside a garage, been looked after needs a new back tyre as squared off and you need to wiggle the ignition key in barrel as it's not connecting easily ,other than that looks pretty good ,runs perfectly ( btw is a proper ball ache re immobilizer to change ignition barrel- do u need the ECU changed as well) but for 1200 quid I'm well chuffed

[Bjørge]

Congrats !   

[Matlock]

I bought it guys,new clutch, kept inside a garage, been looked after needs a new back tyre as squared off and you need to wiggle the ignition key in barrel as it's not connecting easily ,other than that looks pretty good ,runs perfectly ( btw is a proper ball ache re immobilizer to change ignition barrel- do u need the ECU changed as well) but for 1200 quid I'm well chuffed

 

Congratulations  . The immobiliser system is linked to the key on models after 2003 I believe - It's called YISS (Yamaha Ignition Security System) and yes, the ECU and key/barrel are a matched pair. Mine's a 2002 MY, registered in 2003 and so I can change the barrel without having to change the ECU. I think it's the early ones that have the dodgy barrel issue. Mines a bit flaky, but still works.

[PICARD]

We still talking the ignition barrel, or did we go off post there??

[Jim55]

Lol ,yeah ,57 plate so I guess I'd need ECU as well

[Matlock]

We still talking the ignition barrel, or did we go off post there??

You have a filthy mind Captain.

[Studley Ramrod]

 

Congratulations  . The immobiliser system is linked to the key on models after 2003 I believe - It's called YISS (Yamaha Ignition Security System) and yes, the ECU and key/barrel are a matched pair. Mine's a 2002 MY, registered in 2003 and so I can change the barrel without having to change the ECU. I think it's the early ones that have the dodgy barrel issue. Mines a bit flaky, but still works.

Are you sure the barrel is matched to the key and ecu Chris ?  I was under the impression that the YISS system used the key, ecu and a separate plastic YISS ring on the barrel ?

[steve27bha]

This parts fiche:- https://www.bike-par...2971/B44/0/7416shows the YISS sensor ring as part #34, separate from the barrel. BUT the lock barrel is not shown as available separately!

 

You ahould have a red-headed key, the master from which a copy can be cloned onto a new key blank.

 

So, what I think you need is a replacement lock barrel unit (aftermarket/scrappie), a matching (blank?) key and some lock mounting bolts (#35 & #41 - a security type that needs drilling out I believe).

Get the new key cut to match the barrel if necessary, clone it to the red key (so it works the YISS), remove old and install new barrel with the existing YISS ring. That's the theory anyway!

 

Good luck - the security bolts are designed to be bl**dy dificult to remove!

 

Don't ask me how to clone! I'd expect a dealer to be able to do it, or maybe go see the shop manual. The above is based on reading the experiences of others from my VFR days.

 

Better to start by trying to free off the existing lock with some WD40 blasted in to flush out crud, leave it to dry off (or use compressed air to clear it) then use graphite powder as a lubricant. Next I'd try with just a new-cut key in the present barrel since it may be that being worn that is the problem. Cut and test to check it works the lock before cloning.

 

Final thought - try pushing the key sideways before turning. I've found that to resolve any lock resistance in the past on my 46,000 miler.

Edited by steve27bha, 28 October 2020 - 09:04 pm.

[curlylegend]

I used to have similar problems with security systems on BMW car ignition locks.   A quick and easy answer was to remove the sensor ring from the ignition barrel assembly put the original key into it and tape it into place then hide it under the fascia somewhere,  The ECU then thinks that the key is permanently engaged and the anti theft circuits are disabled.  Then it's just a case of fitting more or less any barrel/lock/key assembly that fits.  And if you were handy, which we were, you could even rebuild the new ignition lock to suit the key that does the doors.....

[Jim55]

It's as if the key is like a sausage up a close( Scottish expression lol ) so maybe it is worn and just not activating the pins inside,either that or the barrel internal is gubbed,it does operate but it's like brain surgery ha ha ,you need to b very delicate and use the force master luke

[Matlock]

Are you sure the barrel is matched to the key and ecu Chris ?  I was under the impression that the YISS system used the key, ecu and a separate plastic YISS ring on the barrel ?

You're right Studders, the placcy ring is the bit that detects the key, but I didn't think you could by the barrel on its own, steve27bha seems to confirm that. 

[fixitsan]

Also Fixitsan who bought a 9r with 90000 plus miles, he may have replaced the alternator on that !!  go for it..

 

Yep. 92,000 miles when I bought it. Ex-riding instructor bike from a school in Nottingham. It's sister bike had 141,000 miles and was still going strong when it was sold.

 

It had been ridden regularly  on the job, but also done many tours into Europe. The owners always threw a couple of buckets of water over them, or washed them briefly with a low power jet washer, at the end of each day, but other than that they only performed oil and filter changes at the specified intervals.

 

It came to me with no warranty, bought unseen, from a BMW dealer salesman who took it as a trade in at his showroom, but was never going to be able to put it on the forecourt due to it's mileage. I took the train down to Harrogate where he lived. The ride back was interesting, as it dropped dark I realised the headlight was getting dimmer, an obvious sign of lack of charge, but it would come back intermittently for a while, enough to get me back to Edinburgh !

 

The shock linkage was fully goosed too. I found a replacement linkage with almost new bearings from a French website who seemed to be breaking ex French police TDM900's....that cost about £30 plus £15 for shipping (or roughly in that ballpark). I changed the alternator with a mk2 850 version.

 

When it reached 100,000 miles, feeling I should do something major, I swapped the cam chain for a new one. To be fair, the old one was only about 3mm longer than a new one but it wasn't in danger of breaking. The new chain seemed to give slightly improved performance, because it restored the valve timing back to what it should have been, but then again it could've just been my perception of it that it was better, the difference was only small

 

It has been off the road for a year or two while I bugger about on another bike but I've just given it centre stage in the garage so I can work on it and put it back on the road ASAP.

 

Currently has just under 107,000 miles, it started on second attempt, after not been run for 18 months or so, on old petrol. (after charging the fully dead battery)

 

The only other thing I did was to go over the bike with all the bodywork off, and open every electrical plug to spray with contact cleaner/lube and apply an electrical contact anti-oxidant (De-Oxit, by Caig) 

 

The exhaust stud nuts are rotten to a non standard size and will be a bit of a faff if I need to remove the cylinder head, but that's par for the course on most bikes with such high miles..

 

All in all probably the best value bike I've had, having paid only £900, and it has required very little work, despite the general abuse it's had. It sounds so much better than standard with Scorpion exhausts, and as always decent quality tyres let you extract the best performance

[divvxj]

I bought it guys,new clutch, kept inside a garage, been looked after needs a new back tyre as squared off and you need to wiggle the ignition key in barrel as it's not connecting easily ,other than that looks pretty good ,runs perfectly ( btw is a proper ball ache re immobilizer to change ignition barrel- do u need the ECU changed as well) but for 1200 quid I'm well chuffed

Sold my niner with 86000 on the clock and it was a 57 plate , sticky barrel as well but that was solved because i had to much crap on the ring so the weight of it pulled it to one side in the barrel. I was a steady rider and i am sure it would have gone on to do starship enterprise mileage

[tr7dan]

If it's just the ignition switch that's getting difficult to turn on and off you can have it rebuilt with new wafers at http://www.motomatri....uk/agents.html for about fifty quid. You have to take the ignition lock thingy off the bike yourself which is quite difficult, obviously, it's meant to be difficult to do, but it is possible, and they send new shear bolts to replace the ones you have to drill out.

 

They repaired mine and I have to say they did a cracking job and it works now just like new, but...... I'm pretty sure they don't do them at the address where you send the lock and I think they get sent abroad somewhere - Italy or Spain I think.

 

They will tell you turnaround time is 4-5 days but that's just a fairy tale, expect 3-5 weeks so, if you use your bike regularly, it may not be a good option

 

cheers

 

Dan