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How Support Back End To Remove Swinging Arm


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#1 Richardhuddleston

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Posted 23 November 2019 - 07:22 pm

How do I safely go about this?  There's no flat surface underneath to put a jack on, apart from one about 3"x4" which would still be unstable IMO, even with the front wheel on a paddock stand.

What about a bar through the rear footpeg bracket holes and support on axle stands at both sides?

I don't fancy a TDM across my chest.

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#2 Snowbird

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Posted 23 November 2019 - 07:52 pm

Abba stand with the front wheel hold down bits and swing arm removal kit would be the ideal.


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#3 JMC

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Posted 23 November 2019 - 08:06 pm

A couple of axle stands will work, I also had mine strapped to the lift

 

 

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#4 fixitsan

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Posted 24 November 2019 - 12:07 am

+1 for the axle stands....i think I've also done it on the centre stand


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#5 steve27bha

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Posted 24 November 2019 - 06:28 pm

I used my EazyRizer lift which lifts under the exhaust and rider's footpeg mounts. It has U bolts to secure the supports to the 'pegs to stop a slip. This shows the view with the swingarm removed:- (Yours will look a bit different to my ABS version)

Attached File  DSC01198.JPG   137.61KB   3 downloads

It appears the rear master cylinder and the shock could both be in the way of a cross-bar, at least a bit.

 

Note also the four drain tubes thru' the guide on the swingarm cross-piece. Take good note of where they run to the LHS. I tied string to the far ends so when they were pulled out I could easily return them thru' the tight route.

 

I suggest you loosen all the bolts before you raise the bike so you are not applying big forces to a slightly precariously supported bike.

 

That includes slackening the swing arm sideways adjuster, which I could not move until I made my own peg spanner from an old spark plug tube spanner:-

Attached File  DSC01187.JPG   130.14KB   3 downloads

 

Good luck.


Edited by steve27bha, 24 November 2019 - 07:13 pm.

TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     gallery_179098_391_770.jpg sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg gallery_179098_391_253.jpg gallery_179098_391_82.jpg gallery_179098_391_725.gif gallery_179098_391_797.jpg gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg gallery_179098_391_501.jpg gallery_179098_391_316.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg gallery_179098_391_106.jpggallery_179098_391_2170.jpg gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg

 

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#6 TDM4ever

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Posted 25 November 2019 - 01:37 pm

Just fit a centre stand  ;)

 

10001575.jpg


Edited by TDM4ever, 25 November 2019 - 01:40 pm.


#7 Bjørge

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Posted 26 November 2019 - 08:59 am

Didn't smeone here claim you may actually rest bike on exhaust pipes (not the mufflers, though) - it supposedly takes the weight with no damage ? I did recently, and it seemed ok.


Edited by Bjørge, 26 November 2019 - 09:00 am.

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#8 TKH

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Posted 26 November 2019 - 11:20 am

Got to admit. Right or wrong my bike is currently resting on side stand and down pipes. Took the front end off.



#9 steve27bha

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Posted 26 November 2019 - 11:58 am

I once used a wooden pad shaped to go under the flat plate where a centre stand mounts and to fit closely between the exhaust pipes to give a no-slip lifting point for a hydraulic trolley jack. The important point is that the front end was held secure and upright in a BikeGrab clamp stand as shown in this link:-  https://on-bike.com/...cle-wheel-chock- plus a tie round the front brake lever.

I was careful to release all tight nuts before lifting and to apply minimum forces while the bike was raised. I can't remember exactly why I did this given I have an EazyRizer and a rear paddock stand, but maybe I couldn't be bothered to get out the EazyR and set it up.


Edited by steve27bha, 27 November 2019 - 12:07 pm.

TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     gallery_179098_391_770.jpg sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg gallery_179098_391_253.jpg gallery_179098_391_82.jpg gallery_179098_391_725.gif gallery_179098_391_797.jpg gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg gallery_179098_391_501.jpg gallery_179098_391_316.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg gallery_179098_391_106.jpggallery_179098_391_2170.jpg gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg

 

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#10 MipeTDM

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Posted 27 November 2019 - 07:24 pm

I hung mine to the ceiling beams

Attached File  IMG_20180705_150454013 (Large).jpg   86.96KB   1 downloads


Bolted a pipe with some homemade adapters to them:

Attached File  IMG_20180614_195705953 (Large).jpg   122.05KB   1 downloads



#11 gswede

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Posted 29 November 2019 - 07:51 pm

I was going to change my TDM;s drive package but as I do not have a centerstand, and cannot fit one because the bike is lowered, I had this lift made. It mounts with a single 8 mm skrew to the center hole of the centerstand mounting plate. Worked very well and was stable. Also easy to change the height.

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#12 Richardhuddleston

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 10:04 pm

How do I safely go about this?  There's no flat surface underneath to put a jack on, apart from one about 3"x4" which would still be unstable IMO, even with the front wheel on a paddock stand.

What about a bar through the rear footpeg bracket holes and support on axle stands at both sides?

I don't fancy a TDM across my chest.

Cheers.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Well I already bought paddock stands so I was looking for something free or that I already had, and without spending £130 on an Abba stand to clutter the garage up or fabricating anything for the purpose.

I don't think my rod-through-the-footpeg-brackets idea was going to work so I modified Abba's idea.

Bike up on both paddock stands, remove footpeg hanger bolts, replace with length of M10 threaded rod or long bolt, jack up 1" on exhaust mid-section bolt and remove rear paddock stand then gently lower rods onto axle stands.  Sling rear holder lightly to roof for belt-and-braces.

Couple of points.  Make sure rod is inserted right through the frame, but not too far or it'll snag.  Make sure axle stands are far back enough not to prevent access to swinging arm spindle!

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#13 curlylegend

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 11:17 pm

Here's another cheapskate way to support the bike when working on the rear end...

 

A couple of stout "T"-pieces and some steel rod to engage in plugged holes on both side of the frame. Cost almost nothing and is vey secure.

The extra height is to support the front end using a long steel rod through a round channel in the frame... handy if you're removing the front fork completely.

 

 

 

 



#14 Bjørge

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Posted 14 January 2020 - 07:54 am

Very good idea, indeed ! I made the same kind of stand (only smaller) for using the hole where the bilt/pin securing the bashplate. Nice when working at the front.


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