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Rear Shock Lower Bolt Removal


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#1 ortogo

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Posted 29 December 2019 - 01:50 pm

Happy new year to everyone. I've got a few days off so I'm going to tackle the rear shock lower bolt, that I didn't sort out when I installed a new battery.

Just a quick question, looking at the parts diagram the bolt appears to pass through 2 bushes/sleeves in the shock absorbers lower eye, I'm guessing these are metal and that I can carefully apply a bit of heat to help free the bolt? If necessary I think I can make up an extractor to help get the bolt free. Has anyone got any tips or things they have tried to make the job easier? Forgot to say its a 1996 850


Edited by ortogo, 29 December 2019 - 02:29 pm.


#2 leehenty

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Posted 29 December 2019 - 07:33 pm

went out to garage and looked at it, started to get tools out, then phone rang with some other person wanting something fixed on his car urgently, so I was dragged away. No TDM fettling today. :sorry:


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#3 dapleb

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Posted 29 December 2019 - 07:45 pm

Yes a bush sits in lower shock mount so it can rotate. The bolt corrodes good to the bush preventing any of it from shifting.

I have had to carefully cut the bolt down either side where it comes through the swingarm bracket before. Luckily the orig bolt is made of standard Yamaha cheese. Everything can then be removed and the seized part of bolt removed from bush with the luxury of a vice/bench and possibly reused if you have been careful. Only the bolt will need replacing this way...and that's crap anyroad. If you re use a standard lower shock bolt the threads will possibly strip before the comically ambitious Yamaha torque setting in the book.

All above will only be of use if heat/monkey pith etc don't do the job already.

Good luck.
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#4 wicklamulla

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Posted 30 December 2019 - 12:10 am

this cud bean easy job or it cud be a pig of a job.  I used a stronger bolt when i replaced my shock as the Yamaha one is expensive and it appears to be a low grade in terms of quality. Shud be easy enuf to get a better bolt matching the oe bolts dimensions.  Good luck with it.


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#5 dablik

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Posted 30 December 2019 - 10:59 am

Nephew had to take a hacksaw blade to his, tried heat and freezing to no avail, it can be a right bugger to get out..


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#6 dapleb

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Posted 30 December 2019 - 11:12 am

Forgot to mention, use waterproof grease on installation.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#7 ortogo

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Posted 30 December 2019 - 04:00 pm

well that went better than expected!

After posting here I soaked the bolt in acf50 and left it to work overnight. I tried applying heat this morning using a plumbers blowlamp but what I thought was metal on the shock just above the lower mounting turned out to be plastic or rubber which started melting and smouldering so that soon stopped.

Next move was to cut some thin metal and make a heat shield to protect the flammable part and applied heat from a hot air gun for 15 minutes. I'd managed to find a 4" G clamp which I welded an old 1/2" socket to so I could get some decent leverage on it and applied as much pressure as I could with a 1/2" ratchet, nothing happened. Next move was to try a 2 foot breaker bar in place of the ratchet. This let me get a lot more leverage and pressure on the G clamp and there was a very satisfying crack as the bolt shifted. I though that was the hard bit over but I had to keep repositioning the G clamp as the bolt slowly came out of the bush. There didn't look to be any grease in sight, so I don't know if the bolt had ever been removed or whether any grease had been forced out over time. Once the bolt was out and I could remove the bush from the shock, ten minutes with some 1000 grit wet and dry and bush and bolt were like new.

If someone can tell me how to add pictures I can upload some which might be of help to someone in the future. Thanks for all the imput from everyone, and now feeling a lot happier it's beer o'clock :drinks:



#8 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 30 December 2019 - 04:35 pm

Greasing of the bolt is often overlooked, prolly as it can be a pain for some to remove it due to not having the tools to lift the rear of the bike not using the swingarm.

 

Glad to hear you got it out anyhoos. :good:


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#9 wicklamulla

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Posted 30 December 2019 - 05:40 pm

good job well done.  When i replaced it on my MK2 i fabbed up a plastic shroud to prevent water being sprayed up onto the shock lower mount.


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#10 dapleb

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Posted 31 December 2019 - 11:18 am

Nice Juan.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.


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