24 replies to this topic

[Kebab897]

So...although my 2008 came with a "full service" history book (stamps from various bike shops), I can see no specific mention of the first valve clearance check being carried out. I was happy enough to bomb around on her for first 18 months of ownership, but now... the uncertainty is starting to niggle.

 

She's done just over 34,000 miles and am thinking for my own peace of mind I should take the plunge & strip things down come late autumn / winter. I know first valve clearances are often in spec, but there always seems to be some bikes (assembled on a Friday afternoon?) that need some shims changed come first clearance check... possibly mine!

 

Have a photocopied service manual, have noted the valve clearance thread elsewhere on this site (admittedly for the 850) and am aware there's at least one person who's filmed the top-end stripdown and clearance procedure on Youtube. I have previous experience of doing the valve procedure / shim swap on my old Fazer 1000, so happy enough to DIY. 

 

Is there anything I need to be aware of specific to the TDM?  Will go with ordering OEM gaskets etc... 

 

Also, whilst apart, I intend to:

• Strip & clean the fast idle (working fine but bound to stick eventually).
• Change the coolant. Colour looks fine and lacking obvious contamination, but for all I know it could be the original coolant.

Should I also change the camchain? It doesn't make any noise or anything so I was hoping she'd be fine for another 34k or so...

 

Thanks

Edited by Kebab897, 23 September 2023 - 07:37 pm.

[steve27bha]

Go see this long but thorough thread specific to the 900.

      http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=12948

 

Note my comment @ post #66 re cover torque and replies, and the other thread linked earlier re the coolant pipe O ring.

 

Replace the cross-head screws of the Cold Start Mechanism with Allen heads and lubricate the slides. There's a separate thread about protecting this unit's linkage.

 

I'll be doing the valves again this winter.

 

Leave the canchain. Zip tie it to sprockets to retain timing.

Edited by steve27bha, 23 September 2023 - 10:40 pm.

[MArk2]

The cross-head screws of the Cold Start Mechanism are Japanese Industrial standard  not pozi or philips  Mark.

[dablik]

But if you dont have a JIS screwdriver, small mole grips will shift em.

[leehenty]

But if you dont have a JIS screwdriver, small mole grips will shift em.

Errm 😳 Ill have to go lie down. A 1/4 ring spanner and a 1/4 hex drive JIS bit will get in there

[Kebab897]

Many thanks for all the responses and particularly the guidance links.

Have read through most of them, and as a result I've decided to bring this maintenance forward: started into it today Looks like the top coolant pipe on these bikes is just as rusty as the Fazer's, although it actually had two of them to fight with...  

[PICARD]

But if you dont have a JIS screwdriver, small mole grips will shift em.

If the grips don't shift 'em, try carefully putting a little dent in the screw, then wellying it with a cold chisel and 2kg lump hammer.... that'll get the bastard.

[thong]

consider using a non toxic antifreeze

[dablik]

If the grips don't shift 'em, try carefully putting a little dent in the screw, then wellying it with a cold chisel and 2kg lump hammer.... that'll get the bastard.

 

Crikey Pete, Lee will need a stiff drink along side the lie down 

[leehenty]

If the grips don't shift 'em, try carefully putting a little dent in the screw, then wellying it with a cold chisel and 2kg lump hammer.... that'll get the bastard.

🤢
A lump hammer has no place in a precision engineering workshop. We use dead blow hammers filled with lead shot.

Edited by leehenty, 26 September 2023 - 01:54 pm.

[PICARD]

Hey Lee....I was joking....hopefully no one will follow my maintenance tips...

[ChrisG]

A lump hammer has no place in a precision engineering workshop. We use dead blow hammers filled with lead shot.

 

I dunno, I reckon if you were standing behind Picard as he undid those screws you'd pretty quickly think of a use for one! 

Edited by ChrisG, 27 September 2023 - 09:08 am.

[Kebab897]

F--K.

First, the sparkplugs had a bit of a strange colour at the tips, but carried on & removed valve cover to measure the clearances.

 

Have measured three times to be certain: all ten inlet and exhaust valves are under the minimum clearances specified  

Do I need to pull the head off & inspect the valves etc.?

She was running well before the stripdown started, recent-ish oil change had nothing lurking in it etc.

Looks like mine might have been a Friday afternoon lash-together after all!

[Snowbird]

If it's running fine I wouldn't take the head off, maybe a compression check if you are worried and sort the clearances but if it aint broke don't fix it.

[Catteeclan]

If it's running fine I wouldn't take the head off, maybe a compression check if you are worried and sort the clearances but if it aint broke don't fix it.

Good advise.

[Kebab897]

Have fitted replacement shims for all ten valves and the clearances are now back within spec. 

 

Unfortunately in my enthusiasm I'd cut off the cable ties and was rotating the crank back round for TDC again (forgetting to re-insert the camchain tensioner), so of course the camchain jumped at least one tooth  

Am now trying to line up the Inlet camshaft's horizontal marks up again to match the Exhaust marks, but she seems a little bit out whether I advance or retard the Inlet cog around the camchain.

I've looked at James's Cam timing post from a few years back, and it mentions that the number of chain pins between the upper cog marks (ex-mark on the inlet and the in-mark on the exhaust) should be fourteen.  Just re-counted the pins and mine is also currently fourteen

I will insert CCT, rotate engine and check again, but wondering if this slight cog misalignment is likely to be caused by camchain stretch?  I'd assumed it would still be reasonably taut at 35,000 miles... 

[Catteeclan]

Yes, prob chain stretch. Normal to see the exhaust cam slightly behind and the inlet a little more.

[mh1848]

as well changing cam chain fairly easy if doing shims - i had same issues with timing solved with new chain

[Kebab897]

Put everything back together and sparked her up. Top-end didn't implode, which is always a good start. But... after a couple of minutes there was a very fine spray coming out of the cylinder head drain hole, and the spray was stronger when I revved her a bit. Killswitch thumped and removed myself from the garage.

 

Was a bit concerned before consulting Google, but it appears the problem is usually down to a gasket (often the one around spark plugs) not being aligned correctly. I didn't want to use liquid gasket when I fitted the replacement valve cover gasket as I guessed it couldn't be used again, but some part of it must have moved slightly out of position when I reseated the valve cover.

 

So everything removed once again. This time I used Threebond silicone gasket to hold the valve cover gasket in place.  This proved messy as my Threebond hadn't seen any action for about 15 years and did not want to come out ... until a decent squeeze made it all want come out of the tube at once. Black goo everywhere.  Anyway, all back together and started up once again, watched the drain hole for any further oil appearing. No sign of any leakage, seems all clear

 

Haven't been out for a proper test yet due to the delightful weather, but will probably ride in circles around the neighbouring streets for a while rather than risk having her spewing out oil miles from home. 

[PICARD]

Good job kebab. I had exactly the opposite problem iirc...leaked using a gasket goo, but has been fine for 20+k after re using the original gasket....hey ho! That reminds me....almost time to repeat the process!! Hope the enjoy the fruits of your labours...