Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Chain Care

Dreadful things

  • Please log in to reply
30 replies to this topic

#21 fixitsan

fixitsan

    Carpe Citizen

  • Supporting Member(thanks)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,667 posts
  • Location:West Lothian
  • TDM model: 2003

Posted 14 March 2017 - 09:13 am

Nowt wrong with a bot o rust !

 

My daughter's boyfriend has been running his new YBR125 through winter and when we were at the Scottish bike show this weekend he complained that the chain was rusting on the side plates. I explained that the critical component is the o-ring area, and as long as that is lubed and not rusty the outer sideplate rust isn't really a sign of a knackered chain (although it is contagious once it sets in)

 

I spin the back wheel while holding a brass wire brush to the outer side (if the chain is really bad), and then chainwax or grease on the outside keeps the plates free from corrosion for a long time and I use any oil, thicker the better, for the o-rings.

 

I used to always run a bike daily through winter on very salty Scottish roads, and if the chain ever developed a tight spot a soak in white spirit (brush cleaner) for a few hours, then hung up to dry for a few hours, then an overnight bath in the old engine oil tray worked wonders.

 

If a chain tightens during winter I keep it going till spring arrives and the salt has gone, then change the C&S...cannot see the point in murdering a new C&S mid winter


900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile


#22 Gauntlett

Gauntlett

    seems to like Carpe

  • Member
  • 77 posts
  • Location:Cumbria
  • TDM model: 1999

Posted 14 March 2017 - 11:14 am

I have a lubman oiler fitted, you control frequency and amount, use engine oil. Been on three years now only adjusted chain once about 4k miles per year. oh and cheap to.



#23 TinTin

TinTin

    has been here 4ever

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,296 posts
  • Location:Cumbria
  • TDM model: no more

Posted 17 March 2017 - 08:32 am

I have a lubman oiler fitted, you control frequency and amount, use engine oil. Been on three years now only adjusted chain once about 4k miles per year. oh and cheap to.

 

Now I really like that. I have found that with me (& Charlie Brown) things that are supposed to "automatically" happen don't.

So I'm going to give one of these a go for the ER6. At that price it wont break the bank if I don't get on with it.



#24 TDM4ever

TDM4ever

    Carpe Addict

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 302 posts
  • Location:The Funny Farm..
  • TDM model: 2010

Posted 14 April 2017 - 11:58 am

I have always used 90W chainsaw oil. Very sticky and cheap.

 

My chains have never rusted, lasts forever and stays clean.



#25 stevierst

stevierst

    enuff posts to fill a 50cc

  • Member
  • 51 posts
  • TDM model: 2004

Posted 14 April 2017 - 01:28 pm

I used the lubeman oiler when they first came out about 15 or so years ago, and found it to be pretty good. But being a proper tight arse I've made one or two for my later bikes out of an old hand soap bottle and plastic tubing, worked as good if not better than the original squeeze bottle the lubeman.
Filled with engine oil makes a better winter oiler than the scottoiler system, as these tend not to let the oil flow in cold weather, and scottoil washes off at the first sign of rain!
Stop polishing it and ride the bloody thing!
The current stable
04 TDM900. My work/winter/touring donkey.
The Work Of Idle HandsVI :- 2016 Yamaha XSR900 with a few tweeks:badgerrock:

#26 trevini

trevini

    has been here 4ever

  • Supporting Member(thanks)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,770 posts
  • Location:Far East, near Lowestoft!
  • TDM model: 2004

Posted 14 April 2017 - 02:17 pm

Scottoiler here. I've been using engine oil/gear oil in it for years as I'm too tight to buy proper Scottoil (although I do have some at the moment as it was donated to me). Generally, I get about 28-30k miles from a chain and sprocket set, with the front sprocket wearing first. 


2004 Galaxy Blue. Owned since 486 miles.Renthal 755 bars, Bagster tank cover, Oxford heated grips, DL650 hand guards, Double Bubble screen, Scorpion Rad guard, Gel pad insert, HLD undertray, Angry Badger tailtidy,  Michelin Road 5s, Givi E21s, E46 topbox, Ohlins shock and YSS cartridge emulators   Currently not fitted - PC3, Remus Revolutions.

LCErj.jpg

Putting up with the "niner" jokes since 2005
Check out http://www.hotcoldground.co.uk we're really rather good!
Like food? I feed people -  SmokinGrillGuy <p>
 


#27 TinTin

TinTin

    has been here 4ever

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,296 posts
  • Location:Cumbria
  • TDM model: no more

Posted 15 April 2017 - 12:21 pm

I have always used 90W chainsaw oil. Very sticky and cheap.

 

My chains have never rusted, lasts forever and stays clean.

 

I have some 100W chain saw oil. How do you apply yours



#28 Catteeclan

Catteeclan

    full o shoite

  • Supporting Member(thanks)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,433 posts
  • Location:Gorleston Norfolk
  • TDM model: 2002

Posted 18 April 2017 - 09:02 pm

 

I have some 100W chain saw oil. How do you apply yours

 

41333.jpg


2002 TDM900 Yellow


#29 Studley Ramrod

Studley Ramrod

    Monkey Boys Monkey

  • Root Admin(A)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 19,202 posts
  • Location:HELLO ! I'm in the Library...Notts
  • TDM model: 1993

Posted 19 April 2017 - 10:06 am

:lol:

 

Think I might try the engine oil in my scottoiler loike wot Trev does. :) 

 

I'd prolly brush it on Sam.


Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !!  Now owned by chrisbee !   Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah !  Photos of my first MK1  Photos of my MK2a  TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan


#30 chrisbee

chrisbee

    Carpe Addict

  • Supporting Member(thanks)
  • PipPipPip
  • 391 posts
  • Location:Nottingham
  • TDM model: 2000

Posted 19 April 2017 - 06:42 pm

IMG_0306_zpss2ocbljn.jpg

IMG_0308_zpsoxutdxnf.jpg


I saw this stuff in a shop the other day...
is it ok for a bike chain??

#31 wicklamulla

wicklamulla

    is it Jizzy Rascal time yet.....?

  • Supporting Member(thanks)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12,211 posts
  • Location:Parish of Cruwys (pronounced 'Cruise' just loike Tom) Morchard, Mid Devon.
  • TDM model: 1999

Posted 20 April 2017 - 05:12 pm

IMG_0306_zpss2ocbljn.jpg

IMG_0308_zpsoxutdxnf.jpg


I saw this stuff in a shop the other day...
is it ok for a bike chain??

  dunno but i usually have a 25lt drum of chain i'll beyont in me garage so i shud try it in me Scotoiler.


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif



0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users