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Hi. My Bike Won’T Start And I Want To Go Home....


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#1 Buzzo

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 07:23 am

Gday All.

I rode 400 km to work on Monday and at a set of lights before arriving as I came to stop my 07 900 stalled. It took a bit to start again and seemed a bit slow to turn over. Tuesday night I had to go to town and it again was slower to turn over than normal and I thought Id look at the battery tomorrow.. of course I came out of the hops and the bike hardly turned over the first time and didnt on the second. I rang a work mate and he came and jump started me.

I rang a battery shop today and organised a battery, the boss picked up the battery for me. I couldnt believe how cheap it was when he got back. Its a Powersport YT12B-4.

I put it in and again it turned over slower than normal a couple of times before it wouldnt turn over at all.

Is it just a dud new battery or could it be something else. The battery supplier said it could be the stator but I worry that it didnt turn over fast enough on the first go.

Any suggestions of what else could cause this? Im due to go home Thursday.

Thanks for any help.

#2 Bjørge

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 07:48 am

It could be you have a dodgy connection to ground or battery +. If you have access to a multimeter, you could measure voltage drop from negative battery pole to chassis / engine and from positiv pole to starter relay output when cranking. These voltages should be low, anything in excess of 0.2V would indicate excess resistance (poor connection).


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#3 Buzzo

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 07:55 am

Thank you Bjorne. I’ll try and work that out tomorrow.

#4 Buzzo

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 08:26 am

I just remembered, when it just started the last time I kept it around 4000 Rpm for a few minutes and then brought it back to an idle.. It slowly went from 1050 rpm down to around 600 rpm the stopped..

Am I in trouble..?

#5 fixitsan

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 08:45 am

Might be the stator failing. Check the battery voltage at idle, it should be over 13V Then increase the revs to 2000rpm and the volts should get close to 14V

 

If the stator is at fault there are  a few options in terms of replacments, plus the old battery is probably still good and might recover if charged soon overnight with a plug in charger (maybe get a refund on the new one if you have a receipt ?)


Edited by fixitsan, 30 October 2018 - 08:54 am.

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#6 Nog

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 09:10 am

I rode 400 km to work on Monday

 

That's some commute.



#7 Buzzo

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 09:44 am

Thanks I’ll check the voltages at those revs, tomorrow.

The fact that it only turned over slowly straight up concerns me. On the stator, I thought the headlights used to brighten slightly with revs, tonight against the wall they didn’t seem to alter.

I’m more worried about getting home Thursday night. I organised for Friday off and it’s not looking good :(

Yes, around 400 km each way on Mondays and Fridays to work. I prefer that to the 60 km each way stop and go commute to Brisbane each day.

Cheers

#8 dablik

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 10:03 am

Bit off tangent but worth  a try, give the cold start mechanism a poke and lube to make sure it's sliding, guess it's not really cold in your part of the world but heh ho worth a try.


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#9 Buzzo

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 10:23 am

Lol. It’s been around 30c with thunder storms. So at least the weathers going well.

#10 ChrisG

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 10:29 am

This is a really useful fault finding chart if you have a multimeter

 

https://gadgetsfixit...m-fault-finding


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#11 fixitsan

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 11:18 am

Thanks Ill check the voltages at those revs, tomorrow.

The fact that it only turned over slowly straight up concerns me. On the stator, I thought the headlights used to brighten slightly with revs, tonight against the wall they didnt seem to alter.

Im more worried about getting home Thursday night. I organised for Friday off and its not looking good :(

Yes, around 400 km each way on Mondays and Fridays to work. I prefer that to the 60 km each way stop and go commute to Brisbane each day.

Cheers


The headlight is acting as a proxy voltmeter. A failed reg/rec is less likely on a 900 than an 850, and as I had the same symptoms with a failed stator, and 900's are known for that, you should diagnose it out first. Voltmeter set to AC volts and connected to any pair of the three wires coming from the stator ( you can read them where they plug into reg/rec in rear wheel arch area. I doubt you'll read more than 12V ac .

Edited by fixitsan, 30 October 2018 - 11:21 am.

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#12 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 02:25 pm

Just wondering if the new battery was fully charged before you fitted it.  Easy enough to check battery voltage. 


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#13 MickC

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 04:46 pm

This is a really useful fault finding chart if you have a multimeter

 

https://gadgetsfixit...m-fault-finding

This flow chart is tops,once I got my head round how to read it,has helped me 3 times now very thorough.

 

Its in my garage 2A4s laminated.


Edited by MickC, 30 October 2018 - 04:47 pm.


#14 Buzzo

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 07:59 pm

Thank you all for your help.

I’ll go through each stage tonight after work.

It seems life is to fast for me to keep up with. Lol. Everything is a rush. At this point I just want to be able to get home tomorrow. I should be heading back at 17:00 and arrive around 21:00. I’m going to see about pushing my luck again with the boss and ask to knock off around lunch ( I’ve alrea asked for Friday and we are flat out) and disconnecting the headlight.

I’m hoping the battery was flat when I received it, I rang them last night and they said they may be able to send someone out today to swap with another. I was hoping for a check list of other possibilities to check if that wasn’t the case. You’ve given me that, I’ve just got to find everything. Thank you all for that.

#15 Buzzo

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Posted 30 October 2018 - 08:13 pm

That is one hell of a flow chart Chris. Thank you, I’ll be doing the same. Printing and laminating.

#16 Buzzo

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Posted 31 October 2018 - 08:12 am

Okay Boys..
The new battery was a dud. Another fitted. Very rare he says...

No power to the battery. I’ve removed the fuse to the head lights and am tempted to remove the hazard fuse that powers the indicators and park light. Not a lot of corners.

How long do you think the bike would run for on just the battery, would I get four hours?

Cheers

#17 fixitsan

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Posted 31 October 2018 - 08:25 am

Okay Boys..
The new battery was a dud. Another fitted. Very rare he says...

No power to the battery. I’ve removed the fuse to the head lights and am tempted to remove the hazard fuse that powers the indicators and park light. Not a lot of corners.

How long do you think the bike would run for on just the battery, would I get four hours?

Cheers

 

 

 

Maybe this isn't the right time to show you this , but.... https://flic.kr/p/2cxz3AZ

 

I wouldn't have thought 1 battery would go all those miles, but 2 might, if you have another charged spare. Or even a small car battery, strapped very firmly onto the top box rack, or sat in a top box.

 

Any 12V portable battery supply would help, if you cut the drain down to a minimum, but it is fuel injected still so the battery runs the fuel pump and injectors


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#18 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 31 October 2018 - 10:03 am

Bit of a long shot but, I had a no power to battery problem on my mk1, turned out to be a cruddy spade connector on the reg/rec. Quick clean up with emery cloth and it was sorted.


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#19 fixitsan

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Posted 31 October 2018 - 02:12 pm

Just make sure if you need to push start that you don't do this ;)   (facebook link) https://www.facebook...eaction_generic


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#20 Catteeclan

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Posted 31 October 2018 - 08:10 pm

Just make sure if you need to push start that you don't do this ;)   (facebook link) https://www.facebook...eaction_generic

 

ops. :lol:


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