Cylinder Head Corrosion Tdm 900
#1
Posted 26 November 2018 - 02:54 pm
The pipes are secure and no exhaust gases leaking.
At some stage I want to remove and clean the pipes,however the corrosion must have made the cast metal brittle and a piece has come off where the down pipes bolt into the head.
I wonder if anyone has had a similar problem and fixed it
I have looked on line for different metal mends
I am trying to not go down the line of head removed and welded repair.
Any suggestions would be appreciated
#2
Posted 26 November 2018 - 06:08 pm
#3
Posted 26 November 2018 - 08:12 pm
I take it you'v removed the studs and found the problem? As per Apache, photos would be a big help.
#5
Posted 28 November 2018 - 09:01 am
Looks like someone in the past has been waggling the downpipes aggressively, probably to "persuade" them out and been a bit too enthusiastic and broken the casting away.
If it's not leaking I'd probably leave it, or a botch up repair with JB Weld might work (it's surprised me a few times in what it can repair) just to fill the gap if you don't want to go for a proper repair.
#6
Posted 28 November 2018 - 09:52 am
#7
Posted 28 November 2018 - 09:56 am
Removing the pipes could be a recipe for a disaster.
Seems like it's all held together by rust.
The old adage " if ain't broke don't fix it" rings true
#8
Posted 28 November 2018 - 11:24 am
#9
Posted 28 November 2018 - 11:31 am
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#10
Posted 28 November 2018 - 02:35 pm
I might just clean it up as best I can without removing anything
#11
Posted 28 November 2018 - 03:32 pm
Wurth do a very good epoxy alu repair mix but it'd have to be ultra clean for a repair which means downpipes off. They look well overtightened. The plates have flexed and the studs appear bent. Header pipes really don't need to be ripped tight. I've always tightened with a 1/4 drive ratchet just beyond finger tight. Copaslip too and they fall off next time....
How do you get a hold of Wurth stuff ? I thought they were trade only. I used to use their stuff and thought it was sometimes pricy, but first class ! I really miss it !
#13
Posted 28 November 2018 - 10:25 pm
Thanks for that Nog. Someone will be getting a wee smack round the lug next time I'm in the Untied Kingdom...…!
#14
Posted 28 November 2018 - 10:28 pm
How do you get a hold of Wurth stuff ? I thought they were trade only. I used to use their stuff and thought it was sometimes pricy, but first class ! I really miss it !
Work trade Curly...
#15
Posted 28 November 2018 - 10:49 pm
Work trade Curly...
WORK ?? Fuck off, I've done that !
#16
Posted 30 November 2018 - 09:14 am
WORK ?? Fuck off, I've done that !
Strange outburst curly wurly ? I was merely informing you I work in the motor trade and therefore have a wurth account.
#17
Posted 30 November 2018 - 10:10 am
I most humbly beg your pardon.
I thought you were actually suggesting that I sought employment and took up work again.....perish the thought !!
#18
Posted 30 November 2018 - 10:12 am
I most humbly beg your pardon.
I thought you were actually suggesting that I sought employment and took up work again.....perish the thought !!
None taken
#19
Posted 30 November 2018 - 11:14 am
#20
Posted 30 November 2018 - 11:44 am
You've got two ways to look at it.
As you've said before, if it ain't broke - leave it as is and hopefully you may never have to mess with them while you have the bike and not get into any problems.
Fix them now before any further corrosion takes place and will only make the job harder if you have to do it in the future.
Personally I'd leave unless I had to remove them.
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