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Front Disc Replacement / Remova


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#1 big dave

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 05:12 pm

Has anyone done this, I know the bolts are threadlocked in, how did you release them, heat?, a LOT of heat?, impact driver? Tell me how you succeeded.


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#2 Catteeclan

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 05:24 pm

A lot of heat works for me as it kills/softens the thread lock. You'll need a quality allen key/socket as it'll be a better fit than a lot of the crap that's available.

Some say air guns work well but as those bolts are made of chocolate I daren't try one. 


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#3 leehenty

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 05:36 pm

heat each bolt with a pencil flame gas torch, wait a bit for the heat to get down to the threadlock,hot air guns are too diffuse and do not work well. Then use a well fitting allen key bit on a T bar.

 Impact drivers will usually round out the socket head or break the 6mm screw off at the root of the thread.

The trick is to turn the screw with the key kept upright in the hole. Normal allen keys add a twisting over motion and are often not successful.

if you do break a bolt in there, I have a proper drilling jig that lines up a drill bit in a sleeve using the centre wheel bearings.

I've done quite a few front brake discs with this method and have only  broken one bolt so far.

 

IMG_4039_zps7f6e4c05.jpg


Edited by leehenty, 08 January 2015 - 05:38 pm.

2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, BikeVis bullet LED's under front  nose,Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins Adventure Spec Tool tube under rear rack, left and right sides with custom alloy mounts.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.

#4 ramo

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 05:43 pm

Dave

 

I just warmed mine with a hot air gun, and they came out easily

 

but its worth cleaning the threads out on the new wheel with a tap before you refit the discs  :good:



#5 Manx1200

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 05:59 pm

Think I still have a pencil type mini blowtorch in the garage if you want me to post it to you Dave. Used to use it on bleed nipples without damaging the calipers.it runs off ordinary cig lighter gas.
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#6 big dave

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 06:28 pm

Thanks Paul, I'm waiting to see if I can get a 17" rim, if I do then I'll swapping the discs over at that time. 

 

I'll let you know.

 

How's things?


MOTO GUZZI T3 with Le Mans engine, frisky for an old girl
YAMAHA Tracer 700 

RE Himalayan
Down to 3 toys at the moment, need to go shopping I think



I DON'T DO EXERCISE - if God had wanted me to bend over, he would have put cake on the floor


#7 silverback

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 07:08 pm

invest in some Map Gas and a blow torch from your local plumbing shop, all the plumbers use it, its got a nice fine flame but go easy. when trying to remove things with heat its best to heat 2 - 3 or 4 times before you try to remove the offending  "blighter"..... :good:



#8 leehenty

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 07:13 pm

Dave

 

I just warmed mine with a hot air gun, and they came out easily

 

but its worth cleaning the threads out on the new wheel with a tap before you refit the discs  :good:

The tap size is M6 x 1.0, a carbon one will do to clean the threads.


2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, BikeVis bullet LED's under front  nose,Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins Adventure Spec Tool tube under rear rack, left and right sides with custom alloy mounts.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.

#9 Rallyist

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 07:59 pm

The tap size is M6 x 1.0, a carbon one will do to clean the threads.

Surely M8 Lee


For a challenging summer try the

Round Britain Rally.....  




1993 TDM 850 Mk1 ..... 2008 TDM 900 ....  1975, 1979, 1982, 1992 Goldwings, Scott, AJS,  Triumph 5TA


#10 ramo

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 08:44 pm

mr H is correct(I would't even dout him :rotflmmfao: ), think the rear ones are 8mm



#11 Manx1200

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 10:52 pm

All good Dave, Martins having problems at work. Claire goes back to Uni next friday. Hows your brood?


MotoGuzzi Norge 1200GT. for Euro touring
Triumph Street Triple. For those hooligan moments......
Beta Alp 200. For falling off In muddy bits.
I suffer from C.D.O. It's like O.C.D. but all the letters are in the correct order, just as they should be.
 
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#12 leehenty

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Posted 08 January 2015 - 11:00 pm

The front disc screws are an M8 shouldered pin holding the disc into a recess held in with an M6 thread.

All the thread does is hold it in, the real work is done by the M8 shoulder. Silly design really, almost made to shear off.

Rears are straight M8 bolts. This is for a Niner. 850 fronts might be different


2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, BikeVis bullet LED's under front  nose,Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins Adventure Spec Tool tube under rear rack, left and right sides with custom alloy mounts.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.

#13 Rallyist

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 11:51 am

Glad for clarification Lee 850 is most def 8 mm having broke one in me Mk1


For a challenging summer try the

Round Britain Rally.....  




1993 TDM 850 Mk1 ..... 2008 TDM 900 ....  1975, 1979, 1982, 1992 Goldwings, Scott, AJS,  Triumph 5TA


#14 tr7dan

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 09:19 pm

Just wondering - replace or re-use the mounting bolts - who does what ?  :unsure2:

 

Dan 



#15 leehenty

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Posted 09 January 2015 - 11:14 pm

I would replace as an example of best engineering practice, the originals tend to be a bit soft and round off the hex key hole usually.

I like nice shiny bolts and last time I did mine they were replaced with Probolts finest Titanium alloy offering, but they did relieve me of a considerable amount (£96) of beer tokens. :sorry:

 

http://www.pro-bolt....ml#.VLBj_iusXn8


Edited by leehenty, 09 January 2015 - 11:20 pm.

2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, BikeVis bullet LED's under front  nose,Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins Adventure Spec Tool tube under rear rack, left and right sides with custom alloy mounts.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.

#16 nigel2129

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 09:28 pm

I had to replace both front discs during the summer and 3 sheered off so instead of purchasing loads of equipment I may never use again I contacted a local engineering workshop and he removed all 3 and recut the threads for £20.
I used OEM replacement bolts with threadlock of course and job done so well happy with that 20 quid spent locally

#17 Gasman

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Posted 02 February 2015 - 06:49 pm

Disc bolts look very expensive, where can I buy some reasonably priced ones?

#18 tr7dan

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Posted 02 February 2015 - 07:47 pm

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5d4bc23522

 

 

I just did my rear disc - bolts were £9.99 (genuine Yamaha) and I picked up a brand-new-still-in-the-packet genuine Yam rear disc on Ebay for £58 inc postage - result !

 

Just watch the bolt removal though - I got mine out with a air wrench - easy peasy but I tried first with a T bar... no chance !

 

Dan

 

 

 



#19 jellypops

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Posted 02 February 2015 - 07:51 pm

850 are deffo m8 I've just had to drill one out not a nice job but managed to drill out the old bolt and save the threads ☺

#20 steve27bha

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Posted 03 February 2015 - 03:04 pm

Disc bolts look very expensive, where can I buy some reasonably priced ones?

 

Sutton have them at £2.95 each new:- https://www.yamahamo...ont brake?uID=0

 

If used is good enough I have eleven - one short of a full set. I bought a box of bolts'n'bits and have extracted the items I needed. You can have the 11 for £10 delivered. The picture looks like 10 (at top left) but I've just checked. The heads/allen sockets are undamaged, the finish the standard dull grey, threadlock remains are on the threads. The stuff appears to be from a 2001 bike.

Attached Files


TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     gallery_179098_391_770.jpg sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg gallery_179098_391_253.jpg gallery_179098_391_82.jpg gallery_179098_391_725.gif gallery_179098_391_797.jpg gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg gallery_179098_391_501.jpg gallery_179098_391_316.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg gallery_179098_391_106.jpggallery_179098_391_2170.jpg gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg

 

CBX750FE in reserve; Cagiva N90 125 now rebuilt & in use.



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