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Checking oil level


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#21 Hartside Man

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Posted 30 August 2006 - 08:56 pm

the 900 has got a low oil warning light and mine works. i put the ignition on once whilst draining it, just to see.

laughing how the hell do you run your bike with the warning light on ? mine would not allow me to even crank the bike over when the low level light was on ??

anyway mine never uses any from change to change, but i do change the oil regular at every 3,000 miles, as oil is cheap and enjuns aint.

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#22 laughin in a windstorm

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 08:11 am

QUOTE(amarko5 @ Wed 30th Aug 2006, 09:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
the 900 has got a low oil warning light and mine works. i put the ignition on once whilst draining it, just to see.

laughing how the hell do you run your bike with the warning light on ? mine would not allow me to even crank the bike over when the low level light was on ??

anyway mine never uses any from change to change, but i do change the oil regular at every 3,000 miles, as oil is cheap and enjuns aint.


maybe it's because your light came on when it was genuinely reading low oil, mine is faulty and lights with it full of oil.
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#23 dandywarhol

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Posted 31 August 2006 - 11:14 am

As far as I can make out the electronics are designed to stop the engine statring if the level is low - Amarko's post backs that point up. Maybe you've bypassed that bit of trickery when you modified your dashboard electrics laffin'

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#24 laughin in a windstorm

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Posted 01 September 2006 - 06:21 am

QUOTE(dandywarhol @ Thu 31st Aug 2006, 11:59 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
As far as I can make out the electronics are designed to stop the engine statring if the level is low - Amarko's post backs that point up. Maybe you've bypassed that bit of trickery when you modified your dashboard electrics laffin'



could be possibly maybe, but the only wiring modification I did was to do away with the large inline connector that would've been on show, I soldered and heat shrink wrapped all the wires neatly together individually and then taped them all together as per the loom, and yes they are in the order of colour code they were within the connector, I'm quite certain it is the oil level sender because the only thing that makes it go out is an oil change, but it comes on again shortly after riding, I reckon if it's a float type level sender, then it has a leak that fills it with oil so it can't float, then when the oil is emptied out it also comes out of the sender, then when the oil tank is filled again it gives the correct reading until it has slowly filled with oil again and sinks, this is just my theory but I don't really care anymore, I'm confident that the bike doesn't use any oil and the oil light may be on due to some other reason, like static on my sometimes mixed up crazy but inventive mind wink.gif
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#25 Jez

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Posted 01 September 2006 - 06:54 am

QUOTE(Jez @ Tue 29th Aug 2006, 07:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I have read with horror about the TDMs thirst for oil and the consequences of not keeping it topped up. I always thought mine does not use oil, it doesn't burn it nor does it leak - but, blinking flip, the level goes down. Or does it? I do top it up so it must go somewhere.


Previously I have been leaving the bike to stand before checking the oil level. Now I am checking 'correctly' the sight glass is over full so I don't know if it uses much after all rotflmmfao.gif . I guess time will tell. I will be changing the oil in the next 600 miles anyway. Before if the level drops first.

Live and learn eh.

QUOTE(Jez @ Wed 30th Aug 2006, 08:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Another thing 'though: Why is it necessary to check when it has just been run? With a wet sump bike you let the oil drain down into the crankcase for a little while before checking to ensure the engine is not overfilled.

Is it true to say that on a dry sump bike all is ok as long as there is some in the oil tank (effectively a header) when warm?


Does anyone have any theories why dry sump engines are checked when they've just been run, and wet sump ones require the oil to return to the sump for measuring?

Edited by Jez, 01 September 2006 - 06:57 am.

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#26 PortisHead

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Posted 01 September 2006 - 07:09 am

From the original Service Manual......



#27 Guest_GuyGraham_*

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Posted 01 September 2006 - 11:45 am

QUOTE(Jez @ Wed 30th Aug 2006, 08:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks to you all for your help. I can now keep an eye on it in a regular procedure on a regular basis. good.gif

Another thing 'though: Why is it necessary to check when it has just been run? With a wet sump bike you let the oil drain down into the crankcase for a little while before checking to ensure the engine is not overfilled.

Is it true to say that on a dry sump bike all is ok as long as there is some in the oil tank (effectively a header) when warm?



coz the oil drains out of the tank, into the bottom of the engine, and it looks like you've got no oil

Running the engine pumps the oil back into the tank (abvoe the engine) so you get a true reading.

#28 Difflock

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Posted 01 September 2006 - 12:31 pm

Strange you have to run the engine to find out if there's oil in it?

IIRC the dipstick is checked to see if there's ANY oil in the Mk.1 tank from cold. If there is oil, THEN you carry out the "just been run" test to get a truer level reading.

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Posted 01 September 2006 - 09:21 pm

QUOTE(Difflock @ Fri 1st Sep 2006, 01:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Strange you have to run the engine to find out if there's oil in it?

IIRC the dipstick is checked to see if there's ANY oil in the Mk.1 tank from cold. If there is oil, THEN you carry out the "just been run" test to get a truer level reading.

Diff.

You can always see a wee bit in the window of my mk2 when it's cold, you just need to warm it up to get a more accurate reading.

#30 treadman

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Posted 07 May 2007 - 08:40 pm

QUOTE(Jez @ Wed 30th Aug 2006, 08:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks to you all for your help. I can now keep an eye on it in a regular procedure on a regular basis. good.gif

Another thing 'though: Why is it necessary to check when it has just been run? With a wet sump bike you let the oil drain down into the crankcase for a little while before checking to ensure the engine is not overfilled.

Is it true to say that on a dry sump bike all is ok as long as there is some in the oil tank (effectively a header) when warm?

just wondering if i check my oil level with a dipstick does this make an 03 a mk1
neil

#31 Jez

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Posted 21 June 2007 - 07:29 pm

QUOTE(Dave284 @ Tue 29th Aug 2006, 10:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I had a FJ1200 many years`ago with an oil level warning lamp which worked ok.

blink.gif


I had one of them too. Torquiest bike I ever had. When the oil got hot or low the light would come on under hard acceleration and go out under braking. Obvioulsy the sensor was at the front of the engine, I just hope the oil pump was at the back blink.gif .
Red and black '96. Blue spot Thunderace calipers with braided two-line front hoses - 'kin brill. 17 incher out front. Renthal street/trail bars - vibe free. 1150GS brush guards. HIDs - niiiiice. Stebel Magnum - crikey. Nonfango hard luggage. Nexxus. SW-Motech center stand. Had a Powerbronze tall screen - too noisy - went back to standard.

Stealth Diamond Black 900 with lurvely black frame. GS brush guards. HotGrips on a relay - cos I keep forgetting. SW-Motech center stand and engine bars. LED rear light. Vario set to min. 17 incher. PR2s.

All now a fond (very fond) memory. Maybe again some day.

#32 Ormet

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Posted 01 July 2007 - 07:42 am

Another way to check the oil level easy is to use a small mirror. Just sit on the bike and and use the mirror to see what level you have.

#33 robelst

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Posted 01 July 2007 - 09:03 am

Fifteen minutes idle? blink.gif That's an effective way of frying an engine, even a watercooled one. Do that often enough and you will surely be looking at regular oil-topups and new spark plugs huh.gif Besides, most TDM have side-stands only and since the oil pumps are at the opposite side of the side stand, not all oil will be pumped back into the tank if you leave it on the stand, even if you'd let it idle until Christmas. Curious Yamaha recommends this procedure.

I usually just check the oil when I return after a ride. My 2001 model has a watch-glass, I just kneel down next to the bike and push it upwards from the side stand up to the point of balance. I never wait; I won't deny expansion and froth may indeed give a slighlty optimistic view but ultimate precision is not really necessary and who knows how much oil will run back into the engine when waiting? Besides, at my age I'd probably forget I was planning to check the level if I don't do it immediately rolleyes.gif
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#34 big dave

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Posted 01 July 2007 - 02:33 pm

So what problems can you have if the oil is slightly above the top level - as mine is now following a recent oil change ?
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#35 robelst

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Posted 01 July 2007 - 03:50 pm

QUOTE(big dave @ Sun 1st Jul 2007, 03:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
So what problems can you have if the oil is slightly above the top level - as mine is now following a recent oil change ?

A really high level could block a vent hose in the oil tank but then you'd probably see the oil dripping out somewhere.
In wet sump engines a high level can cause stress to the internal oil-seals but I wouldn't have thought a dry sump setup like on the TDM would be vulnerable for a bit too much oil. Typically, it will burn off soon anyway banana.gif
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#36 big dave

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Posted 01 July 2007 - 05:15 pm

QUOTE(robelst @ Sun 1st Jul 2007, 04:35 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
A really high level could block a vent hose in the oil tank but then you'd probably see the oil dripping out somewhere.
In wet sump engines a high level can cause stress to the internal oil-seals but I wouldn't have thought a dry sump setup like on the TDM would be vulnerable for a bit too much oil. Typically, it will burn off soon anyway banana.gif


Thanks for that. I thought I'd be OK, but it's always better seeing in in BLACK and white.
MOTO GUZZI T3 with Le Mans engine, frisky for an old girl
YAMAHA TDM900 (blue-the fast model) - built to cruise
BETA EVO 4T - built to bruise
KTM EXC Racing enduro - built to bruise bigger!

Only 4 toys at the moment, need to go shopping I think



I DON'T DO EXERCISE - if God had wanted me to bend over, he would have put cake on the floor

#37 Jez

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Posted 01 July 2007 - 05:22 pm

QUOTE(big dave @ Sun 1st Jul 2007, 03:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
So what problems can you have if the oil is slightly above the top level - as mine is now following a recent oil change ?


I did that too last oil change blush.gif . 3000 miles later the level has come down to where I can read it. No harm done, afaik yahoo.gif .
Red and black '96. Blue spot Thunderace calipers with braided two-line front hoses - 'kin brill. 17 incher out front. Renthal street/trail bars - vibe free. 1150GS brush guards. HIDs - niiiiice. Stebel Magnum - crikey. Nonfango hard luggage. Nexxus. SW-Motech center stand. Had a Powerbronze tall screen - too noisy - went back to standard.

Stealth Diamond Black 900 with lurvely black frame. GS brush guards. HotGrips on a relay - cos I keep forgetting. SW-Motech center stand and engine bars. LED rear light. Vario set to min. 17 incher. PR2s.

All now a fond (very fond) memory. Maybe again some day.

#38 cortez

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 01:15 am

Have to say I agree with Robelst, I was never too keen on the idea of letting my Mk2 idle for 15 minutes.

I would let the bike idle for a couple of minutes upon returning from a ride then turn off and check the level. If the time was late and the light dim often accompanied by some good old fashioned Anglo Saxon swear words as I juggled a torch in one hand while balancing the bike with the other.

Interesting that the 900 can't be started if the level is too low, comforting too.

#39 wicklamulla

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 09:51 am

QUOTE(cortez @ Tue 3rd Jul 2007, 02:00 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Have to say I agree with Robelst, I was never too keen on the idea of letting my Mk2 idle for 15 minutes.

I would let the bike idle for a couple of minutes upon returning from a ride then turn off and check the level. If the time was late and the light dim often accompanied by some good old fashioned Anglo Saxon swear words as I juggled a torch in one hand while balancing the bike with the other.

Interesting that the 900 can't be started if the level is too low, comforting too.



really ?? thats handy to know.

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#40 Galilee

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Posted 03 July 2007 - 10:23 am

QUOTE(Ormet @ Sun 1st Jul 2007, 09:27 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Another way to check the oil level easy is to use a small mirror. Just sit on the bike and and use the mirror to see what level you have.


I bet there's a dash missing in there. It should read 1-5 minutes. As in; Minimum one, max 5 minutes.

Hayes manual says about 2 minutes, doesn't it?
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