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Rear Wheel Bearing Change


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#1 rostyle

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 04:16 pm

Hi Im brain picking again............

 

Im replacing the rear wheel bearings and have removed the old bags and seals and the spacer tube.

 

On reassembly i have driven the new wheel bearing home on the seal side, flipped the wheel over and put in the spacer tube.

 

Now it looks like the spacer tube protrude out slightly  further than the bearing housing stop, so in effect the bearing outer race won't be fully home once the inner race stops on the spacer tube.

 

Anyone  else had this problem....?

 

Anyone understand my description>>>?



#2 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 07 June 2018 - 05:42 pm

I vaguely remember having to fit the bearings the other way around (seal side last) to prevent what has happened to yours.


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#3 drewpy

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Posted 08 June 2018 - 08:29 am

I'm just wondering what the old bags were doing on a rear wheel!

 

depends how far the spacer protrudes, usually bearings are flat with the outer race, did you check you have the right number bearing? they were'nt cheapo ones were they?


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#4 rostyle

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Posted 09 June 2018 - 08:33 am

Haha just noticed the bags instead of brgs mistake....!!!

 

It was only about 1mm when i managed to kind of get a measurement with a homemade depth gauge, still seemed strange if anything I would have expected the spacer to be a little short to ensure the bearings outers seated fully home both sides

 

The replacements were Koyo , identical to what I took out



#5 pavel79

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 12:08 pm

Hi guys!

I need small advice.

Today I wanted to replace rear wheel bearings. Sproket side took me 15 min. But I have a problem with wheel side.

Spacer tube between bearings very tight installed. I can move it only about 1mm side to side and haven't free space for tool and can't hit out the bearing.

Unfortunately I haven't bearing puller. 

Maybe someone can give practical advice how to move the spacer tube to the side far enough???

 

And second question - spacer tube between bearings should just touching the bearings and move easly, isn't it?



#6 dablik

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Posted 30 June 2019 - 04:21 pm

They fit tight Pavel, you need quite a fine end on a drift to start the bearing out, another method is to buy an anchor bolt suitable to fit in the bearing and tighten it up, then drift out from the sprocket side..that works a treat, i do the same with a bearing puller as it's way easier.


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#7 pavel79

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Posted 03 July 2019 - 06:37 pm

Well, I changed bearings but not fully sucсessful.

My last hammer hit was too strong - the spacer clamped between bearings and now bearings rotate tight. 

Very offensively   :sorry:



#8 dablik

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Posted 03 July 2019 - 06:57 pm

Oops


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 


#9 pavel79

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Posted 03 July 2019 - 07:24 pm

I going to make test ride and then will think what to do next.

Wheel rotate not bad on swingarm.


Edited by pavel79, 03 July 2019 - 07:25 pm.



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