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Fork Cartridge Emulator


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#1 TKH

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Posted 25 August 2016 - 06:48 pm

Anyone know anything about these for a 9'er?

 

https://mad4bikes.bl...-emulators.html

 



#2 celticbiker

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Posted 25 August 2016 - 07:30 pm

Don't know about the yss ones but I have the race tech ones and they royalty transform the front end of the 9er.



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#3 oldburnthippy

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Posted 26 August 2016 - 06:38 am

Don't know about the yss ones but I have the race tech ones and they royalty transform the front end of the 9er.

 

 

How much is royally? Also I can't find TDM listed on the site - are the emulators from another bike? :signthankspin:


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#4 adamg

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Posted 26 August 2016 - 06:59 am

Plus one on the racetech

#5 celticbiker

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Posted 26 August 2016 - 09:12 am

Royally, is auto-correct for totally.
I'll have a look for them later, but I think what you buy is by fork diameter rather than bike specific.

Edited by celticbiker, 26 August 2016 - 09:13 am.




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#6 Luke

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Posted 26 August 2016 - 10:11 am

Hi, have a look at this on the race tech site.

http://racetech.com/.../TDM900/2002-10

It should help. I'm not sure where to buy though.
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#7 Bjørge

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Posted 26 August 2016 - 01:06 pm

Hi, have a look at this on the race tech site.

http://racetech.com/.../TDM900/2002-10

It should help. I'm not sure where to buy though.

 

Hmmmm....seems you could rebuild your rear shock with Gold Valves for ~$350, quite a bit cheaper than a new shock...dunno about quality, though ?


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#8 adamg

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Posted 26 August 2016 - 06:53 pm

I got mine through amazon from the US



#9 TDrummer

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Posted 31 August 2016 - 07:04 pm

YSS emulators look a lot like Race Tech's.

 

Race Techs do go by inside diameter, should be same for YSS?

Race Tech's are very tunable, work great, quality product.



#10 dmmsta

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Posted 31 August 2016 - 09:09 pm

You lot are a nightmare...

 

Nearly ever time I logon (which is almost daily) there's something else to add to the Wish List...


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#11 adamg

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 08:17 pm

Hahaha!

#12 Chris B

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 09:00 am

I'm not sure I'd bother with this without having an uprated rear shock. I got my suspension sorted out by MCT, A wilbers shock built to my spec and new springs/modified dampers. It handled brilliantly, 30k miles later it was feeling a bit naff. I rebuilt the forks myself. New Bushes, oil and seals and sent the shock off. I've been riding this week with the rebuilt forks and a standard shock unit with only 900miles on it and it felt awful. The rear was so bouncy it felt massively underdamped even the front didn't feel right. It was so bad I thought I'd put it together wrong! I got my rebuilt shock back yesterday and put it on, the ride into work was the best one I've had in ages. Everything felt perfect again.

 

TL:DR, no point improving the damping on the front and not touching the rear, as to me the rear is worse.


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#13 Bjørge

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 11:10 am

TL:DR, no point improving the damping on the front and not touching the rear, as to me the rear is worse.

 

I'm not absolutely sure about that - it's harder to accept the front all over the place than the rear, imho.

It was first after sorting out the forks that I realised my shock was not doing particularily well  :unsure2:


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#14 Chris B

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 02:41 pm

I'd rather have both similar than one good and one naff. Having them so different is awful to ride. 

 

I'd also rather have a better shock than forks. The rear shock affects the front end feel far more than the forks affect the rear IMO.


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#15 TKH

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 06:15 pm

I've swapped out the rear shock a couple of years back and went for progressive fork springs at the time. I always felt the front wasn't quite there but quite happy with the changes to the rear. 



#16 TKH

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 04:49 am

Sorry to bring this up again. I'm thinking again about doing this. I had a look at the race tech site at the instructions (http://www.racetech....ator-STREET.pdf ) and  it looks a right pain to do. I guess it doesn't help that they're generic. I've no problem with dropping the forks off as I'll probably need to de-gunk inside but it appears to infer I'll need new springs, need to start drilling holes, shorten the spring spacer tube to achieve the proper preload, etc.

 

Is it really so hard? 



#17 celticbiker

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 06:53 am

That's correct, you'll need to drill some holes and shorten the pre load spacers.
Iirc you have to weld /fill some holes too but I might be thinking of a different bike on that one.
It sounds more complicated than it actually is.

Edited by celticbiker, 16 July 2017 - 06:55 am.




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#18 MalS7

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 09:48 am

I've fitted goldvalves to my old airhead and a Klr650. A lot of work to get them just right but very pleased with the end result. I'm surprised they can be fitted to the TDM, I thought the 9ers had cartridge forks already? No?
Emulators are designed to emulate cartridge forks, so fitting goldvalves would be pointless.
Talk of drilling holes ... so they do use damper rod forks? Eh? 🤔

Edited by MalS7, 16 July 2017 - 09:50 am.


#19 dmmsta

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 04:38 pm

I've fitted goldvalves to my old airhead and a Klr650. A lot of work to get them just right but very pleased with the end result. I'm surprised they can be fitted to the TDM, I thought the 9ers had cartridge forks already? No?
Emulators are designed to emulate cartridge forks, so fitting goldvalves would be pointless.
Talk of drilling holes ... so they do use damper rod forks? Eh?

Yessiree Bob

Attached File  TDM_900_Fork_Explode.PNG   50.13KB   2 downloads


Edited by dmmsta, 16 July 2017 - 04:40 pm.

MY06 TDM 900 Blue over Silver 354906_45.png
-----
Fuel Pipes
Givi Top Box
Renthal 758's
Grip Puppies
MRA Bubble
Dip & Hi HIDs

To-Do:
LED DRLs
Loobman
Powercoat Wheels
Hand Guards

-----
MY04 TDM 900 Blue over Silver Parts Bin
MY02 TDM 900 Yellow over Black RIP
post-1-1150550733.gif...post-1-1150559830.gif...copilot_zpsgezqc0xz.jpg...hids.jpg...

#20 MalS7

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 02:11 am

Thanks but still confused. #12 and #13 could be cartridge components. Doesn't show any holes, damper rods rely on the oil being forced through fixed orifices, ie holes in the sides of the hollow rod.

I've seen aftermarket replacement cartridges for sale, they were eye wateringly exxy


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