19 replies to this topic

[itchyfeet2]

Hi all,

I've checked valve clearances and quite a few need adjustment. I'm going to replace the timing chain while I'm there as its at the end of its life.
I will use an open end type chain.
Should I do chain first, then take out cams to do valves or valves first and the new chain when new shims are in?

Does it matter?

Thanks.

[dablik]

The timing can be a bit fiddly to set up again so if you can fit the chain with the cams in situ you could then cable tie them to the chain and lift one side at a time to re shim.. wouldn't worry to much though it's all good fun.

[itchyfeet2]

Great idea, thanks dablik.

Tensioner was knackered too. Chain and tensioner not too bad but nearly £90 each for the guides? That's made me cough, I'll have to check out ebay.de the German site, they are a lot more reasonable.

[itchyfeet2]

Just a thought, how do you know if the guides need changing? Would you do it as a matter of course or do they last?
Bike has 53k miles on and I have no idea of history.
Chain defo needs doing as does tensioner. The easy guide at the front end does not look excessively worn, it has a lip at the edges but that looks manufactured in. Have not checked rear guide as I have to remove cams to get to it.

[Studley Ramrod]

Guides should be fine if there's plenty of meat on them, they do last.

[dablik]

My guides are fine at 50k itchy.. Studley's will be even older..

[itchyfeet2]

Cheers guys, really do appreciate the advice and help.

🍺🍺

[curlylegend]

Hi all,

I've checked valve clearances and quite a few need adjustment. I'm going to replace the timing chain while I'm there as its at the end of its life.
I will use an open end type chain.
Should I do chain first, then take out cams to do valves or valves first and the new chain when new shims are in?

Does it matter?

Thanks.

 

Out of curiosity, where can you get an open ended timing chain ?   I know that there are sources for endless ones but open ended ones ??

[Bjørge]

 

Out of curiosity, where can you get an open ended timing chain ?   I know that there are sources for endless ones but open ended ones ??

 

ex.: https://www.ebay.co....NQAAOSwDJZb6~qS

[curlylegend]

 

ex.: https://www.ebay.co....NQAAOSwDJZb6~qS

 

I spent ages looking for that !  Thanks Bjørge,

 

Has anyone here on the forums any trepidation about using one ?

[fixitsan]

 

I spent ages looking for that !  Thanks Bjørge,

 

Has anyone here on the forums any trepidation about using one ?

 

Not sure....in my mind I would be playing off  choosing trust in my riveting (not too loose, not too tight), compared to the hassle of removing a side cover and oil pumps, and taking the gear wheels off the cams, if not remove the cams themselves

 

I can definitely see the temptation because it makes a nice simple job, just cut the old chain and pull the new one in behind it

[itchyfeet2]

 
I spent ages looking for that !  Thanks Bjørge,
 
Has anyone here on the forums any trepidation about using one ?

[itchyfeet2]

Ive used these before. Last time on my GPZ750 turbo. The quality chains are just that, quality. All of the stress is between the links, not sideways trying to force out the rivet. Same principle as fitting a drive chain for the first time. Im not saying you wont check it, check it and then check it again but its doable.

[itchyfeet2]

Hi all,
Just a bit of an update on my rather flippant last post. The timing chain did prove a little problematic,

I got the chain from Borge Warner a reputable maker. This chain comes with one complete link removed or loose. When it came to installing it, holding the two ends of the cam chain together while trying to insert the three loose chain plates was a test of my arthritic fingers. You still have to insert the link plate with the pins on through the entire link. All this while balanced on the top of your open engine.
When I have had these previously it was just one pin that needed to be inserted and then peined over not a whole link built up. If it's difficult to follow my text, imagine a final drive chain but with 5 plates within one link opposed to the normal 2 we are used to.

I made the installation of the new link an absolute doddle after nearly dropping the chain, plates,,a few times. I fetched a rather large magnet I've had knocking around for years and built the link on that before sliding the plate with the pins on and attaching the final plate to hold it all together. Peining the pins over was easy after that.

Not as simple a job as I thought, no doubt open chains aimed at non mechanic types like me thinking it will be easier than doing the job properly.

Edited by itchyfeet2, 10 January 2021 - 10:54 am.

[dapleb]

Good idea on the magnet itchy

[Studley Ramrod]

Good job itchy.

[fixitsan]

Not as simple a job as I thought, no doubt open chains aimed at non mechanic types like me thinking it will be easier than doing the job properly.

If it works, and it's reliable, it's done properly

[dablik]

Nice one itchy, think i would have gone the endless route for me though.. i prefer the same for the final drive..

[itchyfeet2]

Nice one itchy, think i would have gone the endless route for me though.. i prefer the same for the final drive..

For peace of mind that's a good shout. For me the decision was influenced by the type of lift I use on the bike. It lifts the bike from under the engine so I couldn't even drop the oil (again) without the faff of taking the bike off the stand with the engine open and cam chain held by a bungee. Also the "luck" I'm having with this bargain ebay find if I touched the oil pump cover I just knew that whole system would evaporate into dust.

[dablik]

Yep I know all about mk1 frustration and the infamous "luck" but for your info the oil pump holds up pretty well, checked mine against the specs and was fine, pretty sure a 9r pump should fit ?

If your gonna keep the bike an ABBA stand is invaluable.