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Steering Bearings, Torque Procedure ?

Started by fixitsan , Jun 16 2016 11:37 pm

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#1 fixitsan

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 11:37 pm

Looks likely I'll be replacing the steering bearings this weekend.

I have a notched c-spanner with 1/4" drive square to suit the castle nuts.... what is the correct torque procedure to use ?

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#2 JBX

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 01:20 am

Tightening the lower castle nut must be done in two passes :

- first pass to seat the bearing etc, tighten at 52Nm, then fully untighten.

- second pass, tighten at 15Nm.

 

Tighten the upper castle nut with the hand.

 

(from the workshop manual)


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#3 JBX

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 01:27 am

I actually put more than 15Nm on the last service to remove all play, no problems with that since 60.000km.

 

Remember to pour lots of grease on the bearings !


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#4 PaydayGabe

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 03:41 am

Great info JBX. Thanks for your wisdom. My mk1 is knocking over anything larger than a expansion joint. Gonna readjust first before I go to the bearing replacement. Can you send those numbers in ft/ lb for us yanks?😎

#5 fixitsan

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 06:40 am

Here ya go PG

http://www.convertun...om/N m/to/ft lb
Thank you JBX

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#6 dapleb

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 06:45 am

I remember following the spec and then tweaking till happy too.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

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#7 dablik

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 08:07 am

Is it the same spec for a mk1 though !!!!


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

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#8 dapleb

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 08:46 am

Same procedure but diff spec dabbers. Mk1 is initial 52nm and final 3nm. Then a brill final line "if steering is binded, loosen the ring nut but not to the extent of free play in the bearing" ... Which translates to "if that dont work. . . Guess" :-)
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#9 dablik

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 07:07 pm

Gotcha, knew it's same procedure, anyway mine is tweaked a bit more than 15nm after a couple hundred miles, just dont do up bassid tight  :)


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 

#10 steve27bha

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 09:18 pm

Looks likely I'll be replacing the steering bearings this weekend.

I have a notched c-spanner with 1/4" drive square to suit the castle nuts.... what is the correct torque procedure to use ?

 

I made myself a C spanner to fit the 9er nut, with drive via a 14mm AF nut for a 1/2" torque wrench. You are welcome to borrow it.

Attached File  DSC08371.JPG   131.41KB   2 downloads


TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     gallery_179098_391_770.jpg sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg gallery_179098_391_253.jpg gallery_179098_391_82.jpg gallery_179098_391_725.gif gallery_179098_391_797.jpg gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg gallery_179098_391_501.jpg gallery_179098_391_316.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg gallery_179098_391_106.jpggallery_179098_391_2170.jpg gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg

 

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#11 fixitsan

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 11:03 pm

Thanks Steve. Jobs a good 'un now. Feels much better in the curves.

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#12 JBX

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 11:43 pm

Another steering head tool : http://www.jbx9.16mb....php?page=TOOLS


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#13 PaydayGabe

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 11:06 pm

Thanks fixitsan, and jbx. Thought I would check for free play on the front end today. Jacked her up, no binding lock2lock
Grabbed those lowers and had a shake. Whoa, almost pulled it off the jack. 😰
Not one iota of play.? Well, went for a ride, knocking as usual. Rather annoying. Thorw me a suggestion members. PDGabe😎

#14 fixitsan

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 11:10 pm

Horn hitting the front mudguard ?

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#15 PaydayGabe

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 12:12 am

Actually it's a new horn. Original was flat (💩). Plenty of clearance, not hitting a thing. ? Gonna pull her in back, put it on the rack. Give it another shot.
Keep those ideas coming. Thanks everyone.

#16 PaydayGabe

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 01:32 am

Back again. Got the old girl on the rack, front off the ground. Shook the snot out of it. Nothing. Ok, spun the front wheel, hit the brake, knack. Once again, spin, brake, knack. Hmmm, let's try reverse. Not as bad. Now, this old girl just turned 50k miles today. I'm guessing maybe the upper bushings in the sliders? Yea/nay? Everything is tight. Only does this while rolling, never during braking fast or slow. What do ya think. 🖒👎

#17 fixitsan

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 07:09 am

I was going to suggest the forks next.

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#18 steve27bha

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 09:42 pm

Loose stuff inside the fairing?


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#19 Bjørge

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Posted 20 June 2016 - 04:45 am

Back again. Got the old girl on the rack, front off the ground. Shook the snot out of it. Nothing. Ok, spun the front wheel, hit the brake, knack. Once again, spin, brake, knack. Hmmm, let's try reverse. Not as bad. Now, this old girl just turned 50k miles today. I'm guessing maybe the upper bushings in the sliders? Yea/nay? Everything is tight. Only does this while rolling, never during braking fast or slow. What do ya think.

 

I have had knocks in my bar mounts. part from that, many bikes suffer from knocking sounds when braking, have seen suggestions that the spring may be the source - hitting the tube inside. I have had a slight knock when braking (always, I think), but have got so used to it I'm not 100% sure it's still there  :P


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#20 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 20 June 2016 - 09:09 am

You need to remove the wheel and mudguard and grab each fork individually to check for wear to the bushes.


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