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#21 tantfor

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 07:29 am

Nothing that you should be alarmed about. It gets like that after some time.



#22 dandywarhol

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 04:30 pm

 

Nothing to worry about :)

 

I saw that - the new ones are a different shade of grey


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#23 pavel79

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 06:01 pm

During some years the too big valve clearance will come to normal and everything will be ok :)

The more ride the faster it will happen  :good:



#24 Kelpie

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 02:23 pm

I think all niners sound weird. I always wear my ear plugs :lol:
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#25 pavel79

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 08:29 pm

I prefer music :-)

#26 TKH

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Posted 16 September 2018 - 12:41 pm

Might be me but I'm hearing a chain rattle and a valve ticking. But, I don't always do to well with recorded sounds.



#27 fixitsan

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Posted 16 September 2018 - 05:46 pm

Might be me but I'm hearing a chain rattle and a valve ticking. But, I don't always do to well with recorded sounds.

 

There is a ticking at about the right frequency to be a valve clearance, which will close up in time, probably

 

Something rattling sounds to me like it's coming from the chain too. I might consider investigating it, but I would do an oil and filter change too before investigating further..... I would jump in and investigate it if it wasn't for the good chance that the top cylinder head water pipe flange bolt was difficult to get to, or risk snapping it


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#28 PeterM91

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Posted 19 September 2018 - 06:26 pm

I installed new type tensioner 4000 km ago.

I've a 9er from 2002 and just oiled that 'new' tensioner.

Mine has done 125kkm and the cam chain sounded a bit noisy, rattling of a sort.

Removed the central bolt on the tensioner and checked the free play of the tensioner it self.

In the centre you have a bolt of some kind. Turning it clockwise (don't!!) loosens the tensioner and counter clockwise will put more tension on the damper.

That bolt appeared to be stuck. Any way, hardly any movement.

I've lubricated the bolt and carefully turned it a bit left and right. Letting the ptfe spray do its work.

After several hours started the engine and helped the spring do its thing.

I've managed to turn the tensioner less than 1/4 of a turn counter clockwise and the rattling noise is gone.

The bolt/spring is lose again and doing its job.

And I'm a happy TDMer :yahoo:



#29 pavel79

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 06:16 am

Ok.

What size of tensioner free play you think is normal? I mean size between tensioner surface and connecting surface on engine.

I don't remember what free play was in my case.

When winter is coming I going to open engine again and check valves and camchain tension.

It is probably right to buy new chain and gaskets for oil pumps in advance. Delivery is about 2-3 weeks.

I don't like when my bike is located in the different parts of the garage long time :-) 



#30 PeterM91

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 07:23 am

The free play I'm talking about is the movement of the central bolt inside the tensioner.

Perhaps free play isn't the right term for it. The central bolt inside winds the spring which in his part provides the tension the spanner puts on the cam chain.

That central bolt needs to move freely to perform his function as an automated spanner. In my case the bolt could hardly be turned with a small screwdriver.

Some wiggling and thin oil solved that and the spanner is free to put tension on the cam chain.

In my case I am talking about the 'new' tensioner (just above the comments section): http://www.tdm-yamah...ex.php?page=TEN



#31 pavel79

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 08:21 am

Now I understand about what you wrote :-)

I think we have 2 was to identify a stretched chain (except sound):

- marks on camshafts sprokets (not align)

- size between tensioner surface and connecting surface on engine (if the tensioner does not "jump" from the motor when the two bolts are unscrewed, the tensioner is fully extended and the camchain cannot be tensioned because it is stretched).

In my case near 5000 km later camshafts marks already not align on 1/2 tooth. I don't now how critical is it. 



#32 TKH

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 08:42 am

Now I understand about what you wrote :-)

I think we have 2 was to identify a stretched chain (except sound):

- marks on camshafts sprokets (not align)

- size between tensioner surface and connecting surface on engine (if the tensioner does not "jump" from the motor when the two bolts are unscrewed, the tensioner is fully extended and the camchain cannot be tensioned because it is stretched).

In my case near 5000 km later camshafts marks already not align on 1/2 tooth. I don't now how critical is it. 

 

Did my valves at 29k miles and couldn't get it to line up properly. The best I got was about 5mm out. It's running fine now. I'll be using the tie wrap method next time....

Is the bike running ok? not running lumpy, or hard to start, using excessive fuel, getting too hot, etc. I'm not the authority on this but if everything appears to be running fine then it should be ok. Fixitstan, JBX or one of the others may be able to advise a bit better.

 

I tweaked the chain tensioner in and out a little (a bit like PeterM91) to make sure all was working with the tensioner. That isn't a big job, just need an appropriately sized allen key to remove the bolt and a small screwdriver (I had to grind down one of mine to make it fit) to check the adjuster hasn't got stuck. So much easier to check if it's that first.



#33 pavel79

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 09:04 am

 

Did my valves at 29k miles and couldn't get it to line up properly. The best I got was about 5mm out. It's running fine now. I'll be using the tie wrap method next time....

Is the bike running ok? not running lumpy, or hard to start, using excessive fuel, getting too hot, etc. I'm not the authority on this but if everything appears to be running fine then it should be ok. Fixitstan, JBX or one of the others may be able to advise a bit better.

 

I think my bike running ok. The main reason of my sadness - knocking noise :-(



#34 pavel79

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Posted 01 January 2019 - 02:48 pm

Hello!

Happy New Year and Marry Christmas!!! :-)

During my short winter holiday I opened my "noisy" engine, checked again valves clearence and change my camchain.

What I have as results:

- 8 valves have clearence between low and high limits:

- both exhaust valves in left cilinder have clearence 0,30 (optimal 0.23-0.28).

I decided not to tuch the clearence. I think 0,30 is not too big and "loud" problem.

- my old camchain with 57000 km run have visually the same length like new original Yamaha camchain. Of course I changed camchain.

When I assembled engine, start and warmed - I heard that sound did not change much and I have the same little ticking.

If you have 25 free seconds - try to listen it here

Now I have two ways:

1. Make music in my helmet louder  :badgerrock: 

2. Buy loud "Akrapovich"  :lol:



#35 sando

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 05:22 pm

i have the exact same ticking noise
mine done 22k

#36 pavel79

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 06:41 pm

Run 22k - it is almost a new engine.

Well, my engine sounds like a new engine :-)



#37 fixitsan

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 10:49 pm

Hello!

Happy New Year and Marry Christmas!!! :-)

During my short winter holiday I opened my "noisy" engine, checked again valves clearence and change my camchain.

What I have as results:

- 8 valves have clearence between low and high limits:

- both exhaust valves in left cilinder have clearence 0,30 (optimal 0.23-0.28).

I decided not to tuch the clearence. I think 0,30 is not too big and "loud" problem.

- my old camchain with 57000 km run have visually the same length like new original Yamaha camchain. Of course I changed camchain.

When I assembled engine, start and warmed - I heard that sound did not change much and I have the same little ticking.

If you have 25 free seconds - try to listen it here

Now I have two ways:

1. Make music in my helmet louder  :badgerrock:

2. Buy loud "Akrapovich"  :lol:

 

Did the camchain tensioner engage properly, did you inspect it ? 


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#38 pavel79

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 05:38 am

Yes. I installed new tensioner last winter. It is run max 7000km. Tensioner does not jam. I pushed tensioner rod while rotating the screw, than fix tensioner by original clip, than installed it on engine, than removed clip. Last step- rotated engine some times and checked the marks. Job's done.

#39 fixitsan

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 08:26 am

Yes. I installed new tensioner last winter. It is run max 7000km. Tensioner does not jam. I pushed tensioner rod while rotating the screw, than fix tensioner by original clip, than installed it on engine, than removed clip. Last step- rotated engine some times and checked the marks. Job's done.

 

 

:good:  OK, so probably not that. Have you been able to identify if the noise is from the top or bottom of the engine ?

 

I had a terrible problem with noise on an 850 once, in the end it was a combination of piston slap, and a loose ignition coil vibrating against the frame. Yours sounds very much like valve clearances. I set the clearances of mine recently and had to leave one exhaust valve with a little too much clearance. You can definitely hear it. But as the exhaust valve clearances almost always close up over time I can't see the point in doing anything about it.

 

There isn't very much to the 900 engine, the cams are directly driven by chain and there is nothing else being operated by the cams but the valves.

 

Is the AIS system blocked off ? Just wondering if there's a problem with the valve and it's allowing exhaust gas pulses to feed back into the system, although I doubt it would sound like a metallic tapping noise


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#40 pavel79

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 11:51 am

:good:  OK, so probably not that. Have you been able to identify if the noise is from the top or bottom of the engine ?

 

Noise is exactly from top of the engine (under cilinder head cover). I tryed to listen engine by stathoscope and cann't adentify axectly point - totaly noisy under head cover + little rattling noise (it was one little reason to change camchain). 

 

Yours sounds very much like valve clearances. I set the clearances of mine recently and had to leave one exhaust valve with a little too much clearance. You can definitely hear it. But as the exhaust valve clearances almost always close up over time I can't see the point in doing anything about it.

 

Yes, I think you are right.

As I wrote earlier two exhaust valves now had 0.30 and another two had 0.28mm clearence.


I set the clearances of mine recently and had to leave one exhaust valve with a little too much clearance. You can definitely hear it. But as the exhaust valve clearances almost always close up over time I can't see the point in doing anything about it.

Some inlet valves had clearence close to the upper limit.

All of this together can make increased ticking noise from cilinder head cover.

I adjusted clearance 7000km earlier and try to set all exhaust valves 0.25mm and I was surprised to see now 0.28-0.3mm. Propably I was not accurate last winter.

 

Well, now I am shure that It is not cam chain noise and I will try ride more and more to bring the clearance to normal interval  :pimp:

 

There isn't very much to the 900 engine, the cams are directly driven by chain and there is nothing else being operated by the cams but the valves.

 

Is the AIS system blocked off ? Just wondering if there's a problem with the valve and it's allowing exhaust gas pulses to feed back into the system, although I doubt it would sound like a metallic tapping noise

 

No, AIS not blocked. 




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