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Rattling From The Right Side Of The Engine When Throttling Off.


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#41 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 11:02 am

So is the info on that pic on the previous page incorrect?

No.  Look at the overall length of the body/barrel, the 34mm new one is longer overall. ;)


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#42 wicklamulla

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 11:46 am

No.  Look at the overall length of the body/barrel, the 34mm new one is longer overall. ;)

 

 

ok tangs very much as i was confuzzled.  Randy Borehole just rang me and tried to explain it to me but he's a foreigner and i cudn't understand a word he was saying.


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#43 dandywarhol

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 11:58 am

Oi tink ............... feck it, can't keep it up, I think the original tensioner with the short body INSIDE the engine allowed the plunger to flex and occasionally stick in the body as the chain drags against it. The longer body offers more support


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#44 leehenty

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 02:47 pm

It's the longer length inside that matters, longer inside keeps plunger from binding.
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#45 Norwegian

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 03:02 pm

It's the longer length inside that matters, longer inside keeps plunger from binding.


That's what she said!

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#46 wicklamulla

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 03:09 pm

That's what she said!

 

 

now that's spoken loike a TDM 850 rider!


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

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#47 leehenty

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 05:35 pm

whoops, I was speaking from an engineering point of view just to clarify.
2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, BikeVis bullet LED's under front  nose,Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins Adventure Spec Tool tube under rear rack, left and right sides with custom alloy mounts.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.

#48 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 18 May 2020 - 07:26 pm

That's clarified it then chaps. :)


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#49 SeizedBalt

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 08:25 am

The bike shop arent touching it.

They did say to come back and if they hear the noise theyll sort it. Naturally today the bike ran flawlessly...

But I need to decide if I want to chance it: this part needs replacing if Im getting a new camchain and getting the valves adjusted, both of which I want done before any major use, such as my August trip.

To be fair the guy said if I can hear it and confirm the part, Ill fix it. If not, I could buy that part and the problem is actually something else.

He said that as Ive raised an issue, hes aware of it and so any work to resolve it wouldve under the guarantee. So not a complete cunt. Except for the fact that we both know it is 95% sure to be the CCT.

So, chaps: just suck it up and cover the 190 for the new CCT myself and get the valves and chain done, or hold on to see if I can get at least the tensioner under warranty?

Edited by SeizedBalt, 20 May 2020 - 08:25 am.


#50 leehenty

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 09:18 am

If you are going in to replace camchain and do valve shims, putting new later type tensioner is essential.
2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, BikeVis bullet LED's under front  nose,Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins Adventure Spec Tool tube under rear rack, left and right sides with custom alloy mounts.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.

#51 SeizedBalt

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 09:44 am

If you are going in to replace camchain and do valve shims, putting new later type tensioner is essential.


Yep. This I realise. And this is my quandary.

A new CCT is going in for sure.

The question is: do I wait for symptoms to re-emerge, hope they do so in the presence of the bike shop guy and hope they do replace it with the newer design (less of a concern if the old one is discontinued)?

Or

Do I suck it up, and cover the new CCT myself as part of the valve check and camchain replacement which would take my bill from about 300 to closer to 500?

Either way, including new tyres and a scottoiler, I will have put an extra 1000-1200 into this 9er.
So I really hope that is IT for a while....

#52 chrisr

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 10:22 am

Presumably the tensioner has now done its job? But Id still put a new one in.....

Edited by chrisr, 20 May 2020 - 10:36 am.

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#53 fixitsan

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 10:55 am

Presumably the tensioner has now done its job? But Id still put a new one in.....

 

My thoughts too.

 

How many miles on the chain ? I changed one at 100,000 miles and it was not too bad. I changed another at 60,000miles and it was alright. in both cases there was slack, which affects valve timing, but it's worth a couple of degrees crank rotation at the most.

 

If you have the old style change to the new one, job done.

 

As for valve shims, the gap often closes up with time. Never going to show up as a problem except when the engine gets really hot, when you'll notice a slight loss of power under load at first, so it's worth at least checking them if you have no other way of knowing when they were last checked


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#54 SeizedBalt

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 11:07 am

The bike has 74,000 km, so about 45,000 miles.

So the camchain has done at least that many.

But my quandary remains:

Sit on it all for now in the hope it shows signs of problems in the presence of the dealer and thus get the CCT under warranty?

Or

Just get it and the chain replaced followed by the valve clearances checked, and accept it as a cost?

My difficulty is I have no frame of reference for how quickly the CCT can go once it shows signs and so I dont know to what degree Im tempting fate if I leave it till such a time as it happens in front of the dealer.

(Not sure how clear that is...)

#55 Bjørge

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 11:43 am

I'd go for changing the tensioner only, as:

- it's a known problem

- it takes 15 minutes (as opposed to a full valve/chain job)

- it's relatively cheap

- I'd hate listening to that sound (you would not wait until it's permanent if you're afraid of what might happen)

- TDMs chains are usually running longer (my MKI has 113,000kms on orig. chain - no noise) 


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#56 Snowbird

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 12:16 pm

I'd do CCT and clearance check only, camchain is a big job for 45,000miles.

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#57 SeizedBalt

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 12:50 pm

I'd do CCT and clearance check only, camchain is a big job for 45,000miles.

 

Is it such a big job, though? 

 

I mean obviously it's nothing to be sniffed at, but if the cams are already out for the shims, is it so much more work to drop a new chain in?
 

And that's not me being facetious: I don't know the full procedure but from the little the mechanic told me it's not "engine out" territory.



#58 dandywarhol

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 01:16 pm

There is a reason for the updated CCT - the original had problems due to the plunger sticking in the short body. The new one has the same part number but the last numbers on the original  5PS1221010 - 00 denote the early one. Unless someone sells you old stock with the - 00 then the 5PS1221010 is the new part for you. The engine was never subject to a recall so I'd be surprised if a dealer would give it free because Yamaha won't pay them for it.

 

Dealers only replaced the part under the Manufacturer's warranty if there was a noise - at 45,000 miles (on the clock) I would suck it up and change for the newer one for peace of mind. They have been known to jump teeth and they will run 2 teeth out without the valves hitting the piston - if it jumps 3 - well.....................

 

If it's a cost thing (understandably) then get a used one with the longer body - as far as I'm aware the superceded CCT causes no problem.


Edited by dandywarhol, 20 May 2020 - 01:19 pm.

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#59 SeizedBalt

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 02:54 pm

There is a reason for the updated CCT - the original had problems due to the plunger sticking in the short body. The new one has the same part number but the last numbers on the original  5PS1221010 - 00 denote the early one. Unless someone sells you old stock with the - 00 then the 5PS1221010 is the new part for you. The engine was never subject to a recall so I'd be surprised if a dealer would give it free because Yamaha won't pay them for it.

 

Dealers only replaced the part under the Manufacturer's warranty if there was a noise - at 45,000 miles (on the clock) I would suck it up and change for the newer one for peace of mind. They have been known to jump teeth and they will run 2 teeth out without the valves hitting the piston - if it jumps 3 - well.....................

 

If it's a cost thing (understandably) then get a used one with the longer body - as far as I'm aware the superceded CCT causes no problem.

 

Well, it is a cost thing and it isn't: 

 

I mean, I'd rather the bike shop pay under their used bike warranty, but don't fancy having the bike make the noise more and more often, Sod's Law intervening in such a way that it went away the moment I turned into the dealer's carpark and eventually something goes wrong, or it's 2 weeks before our planned departure and the workshop is fully booked!

 

So, probably, I'm going to just get it done. It helps to get other opinions to see if I'm being unnecessarily impatient, or unwisely risky in what I'm thinking.

 

My take here is leaving it and waiting, now that it's started making noises is probably not a good idea.


Edited by SeizedBalt, 20 May 2020 - 04:06 pm.


#60 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 20 May 2020 - 03:18 pm

Fit a new one, peace of mind is everything. :)  Just ask Dabbers.


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