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Heated Grips Fitting


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#1 chrisbee

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Posted 09 February 2019 - 09:40 am

With all the talk of heated grips, i decided to buy some...
Do i need to remove the petrol tank?
Has anyone done a step by step fitting guide?
TIA
Chris.

#2 TKH

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Posted 09 February 2019 - 09:58 am

Hi Chris no need to remove the tank. I'm not sure if there is a step by step guide on here but a quick google and found a few on youtube. 


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#3 fixitsan

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Posted 09 February 2019 - 10:05 am

Probably the most important bit is getting the wires to the grips, mounting them so they don't catch on any hardware as you turn the steering from lock to lock, make sure the leadout wires from the grips face towards the rear of the bike (to keep the water out). The wire supplying power can run alongside any of the other harnesses which are fed from the frame to the steering yokes/handlebars


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#4 thelodger

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Posted 09 February 2019 - 10:11 am

A couple of general tips.

 

You should be able to remove your old grips in one piece . Push something like a knitting needle carefully between the old grip and the bar right to the end ( rotate it round the bar if you can ) then squirt WD40 into the grip. With a bit of wiggling and twisting you should be able to pull it off.

 

Do not use superglue to glue your new grips. Use actual grip glue so you can remove them if you want to in the future. It is more than adequate to hold them.

 

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#5 PeterM91

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Posted 09 February 2019 - 10:48 am

Another one: blow compressed air between the old grips and bar.

That's usually enough to remove them in one piece.

 

The new left heated grip kept coming lose from the chrome bar.

The super glue which came with the heated grips (Oxford) wasn't strong enough.

At last I used the well known JB-weld and that was the end of the story (3 years ago) :cool:



#6 MickC

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Posted 09 February 2019 - 11:57 am

Oxford grips need to be connected to the battery (you havent said what yours are) so if you can connect without taking tank off fine,I took mine off 850 mK1 and 2 so i could run the cables Inside the frame rails along the wiring to the head stock.

connect the grips up and turn them on,have the engine running Oxford will detect If the battery is not charging and turn the grips off,when the left hand grip Is up to temp it will be much easier to push over the bar ( It will just slide on  and you wont need to get hitting the end to get It to get it on) It will also leave more glue on the bar and when cooled It will squash Into the glue nicely.Right hand dont matter.



#7 chrisbee

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Posted 09 February 2019 - 12:18 pm

Oxford grips need to be connected to the battery (you havent said what yours are) so if you can connect without taking tank off fine,I took mine off 850 mK1 and 2 so i could run the cables Inside the frame rails along the wiring to the head stock.
connect the grips up and turn them on,have the engine running Oxford will detect If the battery is not charging and turn the grips off,when the left hand grip Is up to temp it will be much easier to push over the bar ( It will just slide on  and you wont need to get hitting the end to get It to get it on) It will also leave more glue on the bar and when cooled It will squash Into the glue nicely.Right hand dont matter.



Oxford grips Tdm850 4tx

Thanks for all the reply’s,
Chris

#8 thelodger

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Posted 09 February 2019 - 02:13 pm

Chris

 

When you are putting glue on the throttle grip side, be careful to stop short of the ( ignition switch ) end as you do not want any excess glue to spill out of the end when you push it on and potentially make your throttle sticky ( literally !! ) 



#9 dablik

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Posted 09 February 2019 - 04:06 pm

I would only glue the throttle grip if really necessary, usually dont need it though.


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#10 MickC

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Posted 09 February 2019 - 09:44 pm

The end of my post-- Right hand dont matter-- the throttle tube has ridges dont realy need to glue as Dablik is saying and it just seems to slide on easier anyway,have a KLR 650 with no glue under either side, clutch side does move a bit when hot so not recommende but Im ok with It.



#11 TKH

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Posted 09 February 2019 - 10:21 pm

Re glue, I can't comment of and 850 but on my 9'er I have to glue them on otherwise when turning the throttle the grips move but not the throttle. But make sure you can get them off after. A good superglue can be very permanent.

 

You should be able to run the cables along side the tank.


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#12 chrisbee

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 02:29 pm

Not too sure where to mount the controller...
There is only 1 fixing on the left side, but 2 fixings on the right... although the bracket would have to be bent considerably for it to fit on the right side..

#13 steve27bha

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 02:49 pm

See this other recent thread and my post #3 with pic of controller mounted on the LHS on the clutch perch bolt.

 

http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=36167

 

HTH


Edited by steve27bha, 10 February 2019 - 02:49 pm.

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#14 chrisbee

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 04:15 pm

All sorted 👍👍👍👍

#15 jiff

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Posted 11 February 2019 - 02:42 pm


+ 1 for relay.....not as consequence of bad experience.....simply paranoia

but hold on a mo, my grips were a freebie , I think from Bike / Ride magazine,
and when about to fit them I discovered a (potential ?) glitch.....

Those particular Oxford grips were the ‘Commuter’ version, it turned out
.......the suggested wiring went direct to the battery which felt questionable,
and as far as I recall, DIDN’T switch off with the ignition, contrary to the Oxford blurb
(I think that was it)..... forget to switch them off.......flatters batters!

........hence the relay, maybe (wiring courtesy of wiseones on here)
(will post a diagram if it would help)

Jiff


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