22 replies to this topic

[sigvepigve]

So got my hands on an old fj1100 rim. It is 16". I know this will alter the handling of my 3vd, even if i lower the rear a bit, and tire selection will be decreased. But apart from that, is there any reason this should not work? Different axle maybe? Also planning to fit a steering damper.. Will the tdm rotors fit? Any info would be highly appreciated.

[drewpy]

I wouldn't do it, my FZ has a 16" and drops into corners like a good 'un. even heard of riders decking the bike due to the speed it drops and then panicking/crashing.

 

tyre wise I can't even get Avons any more so I got a Metzeler on the front Avon rear ( works well though but is a light bike as its based on the steel framed FZR400)

[MickC]

In the mid eighties I had an RX1000 Kawasaki, 16 inchers and every time I went round a small roundabout it felt like the front end was going from under me and I tried to straighten up,any way only had it 3monthes then sold the fecker, horrible felling.

[sigvepigve]

I used to have a vfr750f, 1986. Great bike, loved thd way it handled with with the 16 front and 18 rear. But it had differnt rake angle compared to the tdm, so probably would be quite different. But i want to lower my tdm a few inches, so 16" front wheel and raise the forks a few surely will have an effec on the front end. Also considering 16 rear. I knid

[WayneUK]

would dropping the forks an 1" make the front feel and act like a 17" wheel? and what would the advantages and dis advantages in doing this if so?

[Catteeclan]

would dropping the forks an 1" make the front feel and act like a 17" wheel? and what would the advantages and dis advantages in doing this if so?

 

Think 1/2" would be nearer.

[dablik]

 

Think 1/2" would be nearer.

 

Yup, if you put a 17" wheel on you would only lower the bike 1/2"

[fixitsan]

would dropping the forks an 1" make the front feel and act like a 17" wheel? and what would the advantages and dis advantages in doing this if so?

 

It would be similar but for a different reason. When you fit a smaller front wheel you reduce the amount of trail in the front geometry. Less trail makes it easier to follow a particular path but makes the steering a bit more sensitive in other ways (more difficult to ride 'no hands')

 

The 900 suffers with a bit of 'wheel flop' the mk1 also but to a lesser extent. Reducing the trail distance reduces the wheel flop. Wheel flop is felt when you lean the bike over it wants to continue leaning more and you need to apply a bit of pressure on the bars to hold it at a particular angle.. This is probably also why fitting a 17" front wheel on a 900 makes a nice difference to the amount of steering effort required.

 

Lowering the forks in the yokes steepens the rake angle (relative to the road, but not the bike frame) , which also reduces trail. However the bike isn't quicker to steer, just easier to turn in thanks to a reduction in wheel flop. A smaller wheel will turn in faster because of the combination of the reduced circumference of the curved sidewall and the amount of steering angle required to get the sidewall to track the intended path

 

In short, lowering the forks in the yokes makes turn in easier because there is less trail (castor forces)  but the speed of turning is governed more by wheel diameter

[jpor]

Interesting read ^ So which is better?

 

On an unrelated note to the OP's question:

 

I have a 900 ABS. Have read that 17" not possible as the favourite donor wheel from a 1998 Rx or FZ1000 doesn't have a large enough hub to receive the sensor

 

I personally think it handles amazingly already but thought I'd try out this 17" craze and save a bit of money on tyres. Any solutions to the ABS problem on here? I don't mind losing the ABS but would prefer to keep it if possible 

[fixitsan]

Interesting read ^ So which is better?

 

On an unrelated note to the OP's question:

 

I have a 900 ABS. Have read that 17" not possible as the favourite donor wheel from a 1998 Rx or FZ1000 doesn't have a large enough hub to receive the sensor

 

I personally think it handles amazingly already but thought I'd try out this 17" craze and save a bit of money on tyres. Any solutions to the ABS problem on here? I don't mind losing the ABS but would prefer to keep it if possible 

 

The sensor isn't it mounted on the forks ? All you need for the rotor is an ABS disk with ....  0.944 x number of ridges   as the original has, which might be a tricky find.

[steve27bha]

The TDM900A's ABS sensor is mounted on a cover for the front wheel hub, and the ridges that are counted are cast inside the hub around the periphery. Same at the back.

 

See this parts diagram:- https://www.motorcyc...les/front-wheel

 

I asked a similar Q about 17" ABS wheels some time ago and got sweet FA replies.

 

ADD I've just checked the price of that sensor housing - part #10 - over £300 !!!!

Edited by steve27bha, 12 October 2018 - 01:05 pm.

[fixitsan]

The TDM900A's ABS sensor is mounted on a cover for the front wheel hub, and the ridges that are counted are cast inside the hub around the periphery. Same at the back.

 

See this parts diagram:- https://www.motorcyc...les/front-wheel

 

I asked a similar Q about 17" ABS wheels some time ago and got sweet FA replies.

 

ADD I've just checked the price of that sensor housing - part #10 - over £300 !!!!

 

Thanks for clarifying Steve. I thoiught it might be possible to fit an R6 rotor but not now https://www.ebay.co....qO5D:rk:28:pf:0

 

Alternatively a 17" R6 front wheel with ABS rotor might fit but then you need to reposition the sensor. Probably easier to fit a different front end in truth

[WayneUK]

Has any body just lowered the forks in the yokes? If so, whats there opinion on just doing this? Also would the rear have to be change too?

[Studley Ramrod]

Lots of peeps have lowered the yokes, makes the bike turn in a bit quicker if you drop them 20mm.

[curlylegend]

Lots of peeps have lowered the yokes, makes the bike turn in a bit quicker if you drop them 20mm.

 

I did that with my 3VD ...it made a noticeable difference.  So much so that I've given up on finding and fitting a 17" front wheel.

[dablik]

I think 20mm could be a bit much, maybe start at 10mm and try it.

[WayneUK]

I think 20mm could be a bit much, maybe start at 10mm and try it.

would i need to change the rear too?

[Studley Ramrod]

No.

[TKH]

Tried lowering mine by and inch. Can't say it made a great deal of difference to me. I'm back to normal.

 

From memory, there were a few posts some time ago about using a 17 inch front to make it easier getting tyre sets. There were some options in that but recommending a speedo healer.

[Sidarta]

Has any body just lowered the forks in the yokes? If so, whats there opinion on just doing this? Also would the rear have to be change too?

 

Hi WayneUK!

 

I lowered the front at 15mm and made a big difference.

Positive:
1) You need less space to turn the bike.
Describe a semi-circle, for example. Before you had a custom.
Then a street bike.
2) I no longer stand the ballerina position (tiptoe)
3) Attack the curves better.
4) I made compensation with new handlebar supports. In height and advance towards my arms. I did not change the rear.

Negative.
1) Copy the terrain with greater sensitivity and transfer to the handlebars.
Therefore it requires more attention, with holes, spines and unevenness.
Imagine an old disk dock, where the swinging needle door arm, copies the undulations / pucker of the disk.

Conclusion: After several years, I'm sure, that was a change for the better.

I'm 5'8" ft 

 

Cheers!