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Niner Woes


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#21 Atesz792

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Posted 01 April 2019 - 12:46 pm

Great, sounds easy enough. Any reason others usually go with the self amalgamating tape?
Also now that I've searched on Google it seems like they sell it with 5 and 7 mm OD, which one would I need?
Seems like I'll also have to gather the courage for the rest of the job.. now to use half of the full tank of fuel with a stuttering bike! :)
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#22 dandywarhol

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Posted 01 April 2019 - 10:26 pm

Great, sounds easy enough. Any reason others usually go with the self amalgamating tape?
Also now that I've searched on Google it seems like they sell it with 5 and 7 mm OD, which one would I need?
Seems like I'll also have to gather the courage for the rest of the job.. now to use half of the full tank of fuel with a stuttering bike! :)

 

Folks go for amalgamating tape because they don't know they can change the leads. also made a huge difference to my truculent TRX with it's 20 year old carbs. 7mm from memory


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#23 TDM4ever

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Posted 02 April 2019 - 06:45 am

 

Folks go for amalgamating tape because they don't know they can change the leads.

 

Yeah, I also wondered why you would wrap bad leads in tape, instead of just changing them..  :huh:



#24 Matlock

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Posted 02 April 2019 - 11:26 am

 

Yeah, I also wondered why you would wrap bad leads in tape, instead of just changing them..  :huh:

When my niner first misfired in the rain, there wasn't much experience of the problem, someone suggested taping them up to see if was the cause of the misfire. It proved it was and I bought replacement quality HT leads to replace the OEM taped ones. They're still hanging up in a coil on the garage wall, they've been there for 12 years and about 75k miles. I'll get around to replacing them one day  :rolleyes:

One issue where tape will still help is the coil/HT lead joint. Before I fitted the self-amalgamating tape, I did a test in a dark garage, with the side panels off and the engine running where I sprayed a fine mist of water over the leads and coils. There were plenty of sparks and some were coming from where the HT lead terminal went into the coil. So my tape covers this joint as well as the lead itself. I seem to recall 850 coils are a much better design in this respect and are a direct swap for the 900's coils. I think I've got a set somewhere in the garage for fitting when I replace the HT leads......... :sorry:


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#25 Atesz792

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Posted 02 April 2019 - 02:40 pm

All right, bought 1 metre of copper core HT lead for a bit less than 1€.
I'd thought it was more expensive, there were no other options with 7mm OD.
Should also add some HP as it's red.
Do I need to remove some of the insulation at the ends while replacing them, or are they plug&play?
Pardon my ignorance in this matter.
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#26 Favs

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Posted 02 April 2019 - 05:15 pm

screwin


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#27 dandywarhol

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Posted 02 April 2019 - 11:39 pm

All right, bought 1 metre of copper core HT lead for a bit less than 1€.
I'd thought it was more expensive, there were no other options with 7mm OD.
Should also add some HP as it's red.
Do I need to remove some of the insulation at the ends while replacing them, or are they plug&play?
Pardon my ignorance in this matter.

 

Don't trim the ends, just carefully screw in and don't overtighten or you risk loosening the metal screw in the coil (expensive) or cap (less expensive) It wouldn't do any harm to replace the caps with quality items too as they also break down with 50,000 volts over 17 years


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#28 PICARD

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Posted 03 April 2019 - 05:03 am

Before lifting the tank, be sure to remove the two black plastic "fillets" from behind it...remove screws and pull carefully. They break and are rare and an expensive bit of plastic!!
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#29 Atesz792

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 08:22 pm

UPDATE
All right guys, tonight I cleaned up the battery contacts with some sanding paper, and its wire connectors too.
Also started the bike with the key PO had been using (I tend to use the other key which used to be the spare one when purchasing used vehicles, usually less buggered-up-looking) because of something I read on the JBX site regarding the main switch and error #19.
Prior to starting I charged the battery with a smart charger for about an hour (voltage was between 12.3&12.4V after sitting for about a week. I probably should replace this battery as it has failed to start the bike soon after the purchase, but figured it was just not charged during the winter. Clock also reset itself during the failed starting attempt, and once or twice since).
Then started the bike and let it run for a bit more than 10 minutes, turned it off when I started to feel sorry for the poor thing (exhaust headers started glowing red and cooling fan kicked in).
Good news is, it didn't produce the usual symptoms!
Now I know this is not much, but it's all I had time for today.
Cheers!

Edited by Atesz792, 06 April 2019 - 08:35 pm.

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#30 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 09:45 am

That battery voltage seems a bit on the low side.  Should be at least 12.6v really, ideally holding 12.9v 24hrs after fully charging.


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#31 spike240

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 11:18 am

I would agree with the above. The bike is new to you, and if you don't know the history just buy a new battery. When I bought my tdm, starter would happily turn engine over, but it struggled to start. New Yuasa battery fitted. Now just touch the starter button - and its away.

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#32 dablik

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Posted 08 April 2019 - 03:21 pm

Yep gettanubatt :good:


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#33 Atesz792

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 05:44 am

All right then, new battery on the shopping list.
Well yesterday was tinker day, but the lawnmower decided it needed a new carb this spring, etc etc so all I could do in addition to the stuff above is lift the RHS HT lead from the engine (which upon inspection it appeared to be resting on all the time) with a cable tie.
Nope, did not help. After exactly 15 minutes runtime, 12 minutes of riding it started cutting out again. Weather totally dry. Seems to be associated with the bike warming up as upon several restarts the problem did not go away.
I managed to determine that high speed cruising is not affected though, which is kinda nice :)
Still dangerous in the city, it acts like a semi-auto stop-start system SMH.
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#34 fixitsan

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 07:26 am

All right then, new battery on the shopping list.
Well yesterday was tinker day, but the lawnmower decided it needed a new carb this spring, etc etc so all I could do in addition to the stuff above is lift the RHS HT lead from the engine (which upon inspection it appeared to be resting on all the time) with a cable tie.
Nope, did not help. After exactly 15 minutes runtime, 12 minutes of riding it started cutting out again. Weather totally dry. Seems to be associated with the bike warming up as upon several restarts the problem did not go away.
I managed to determine that high speed cruising is not affected though, which is kinda nice :)
Still dangerous in the city, it acts like a semi-auto stop-start system SMH.

 

 

Is it cutting out because the idle speed is too low, or is it idling fine at about 1000-1200rpm but stops quickly ?


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#35 Atesz792

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 07:34 am

 
 
Is it cutting out because the idle speed is too low, or is it idling fine at about 1000-1200rpm but stops quickly ?

Thought about that too, idle is now set @1300RPM.
I did try raising idle speed way beyond that, somewhere between 2-3K it won't stall just idle down to ~900RPM when it falls on its face. Give it some gas then, and it pukes some black smoke then clears out when revs catch up.
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#36 dablik

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 07:41 am

Lift the tank, check fuel lines not kinked anywhere, have you lifted the tank yet !!!


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

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#37 Atesz792

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 09:57 am

Lift the tank, check fuel lines not kinked anywhere, have you lifted the tank yet !!!

No I have not, my access to the bike is limited in time to say the least, that's why this problem is so annoying, my very limited free time should be spent enjoying the bike not contemplating when to set it on fire... sorry rant over.
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#38 fixitsan

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 03:50 pm

Fuel tank breather blocked, tank holding a vacuum ?


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#39 dablik

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 05:24 pm

No I have not, my access to the bike is limited in time to say the least, that's why this problem is so annoying, my very limited free time should be spent enjoying the bike not contemplating when to set it on fire... sorry rant over.

 

Believe me i know all about it, i have a can of petrol sitting tied to the tank, to help along a little when i strike the match, but if you dont fix it you cant enjoy it, good luck.


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 


#40 Atesz792

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Posted 09 April 2019 - 06:48 pm

Thanks for the understanding and patience guys, I appreciate it.
Next tinker day I shall do the HT leads (already bought) and airbox mod. The testing after that should make fuel level acceptable for lifting the tank, should it still be deemed necessary (hope not).
Fuel tank breather clogging would affect high speed running, wouldn't it? Thanks though!
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