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Rear Brake Problem


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#1 Toby

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Posted 21 August 2019 - 03:56 pm

Hi guys,

 

I was hoping to get a few opinions on an issue I'm having with my rear brake. The bike is a TDM900A 2007 with 29k miles on the clock. It has been in storage for about 6 weeks. So when I rode it yesterday for the first time after a while, I noticed that the rear brake felt different, showing symptoms of air in the brake system.

  • Brake was fine when I rode off but then "suddenly" turned to be much weaker than before
  • Felt "spongy"
  • Improved slightly temporarily when pumping the brake lever

 

So I popped into my local garage and was told that this is most likely an issue with the rear brake cylinder. They gave me an approx quote for £130 to fix the brake cylinder seal(s) with a "renewal kit" (Hope I understood this correctly). 

 

I was wondering what people think about the brake cylinder failing at less than 30k miles? Is this a common thing to happen? Has anybody had this happen? The bike was in storage in a garage with no ventilation.

 

Would there be any point in bleeding the brakes, then seeing if it comes back, and if it does, then having the brake cylinder repaired?

 

Any opinions appreciated.

Tobias

 



#2 mh1848

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Posted 21 August 2019 - 06:16 pm

It is not sticking on or binding in any way? brake fluid and hose are hygroscopic so it may be worth trying to bleed brakes but before that may be worth taking caliper off and make sure pistons are moving freely

 

possible - https://www.ebay.ie/...MAAAOSwI3RW8621

 

but not sure if ABS - or if yours is

 

cheers


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#3 dapleb

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Posted 21 August 2019 - 06:49 pm

For £130 it might be worth getting a deinite diagnosis rather than "most likely". Normally some signs of fluid comin oot or air going in!!

Not a common problem on 850 and haven't seen many reports of it ear for 9ers.
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#4 Toby

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Posted 21 August 2019 - 06:52 pm

Thanks, I cleaned all visible parts yesterday so that i could see any leaks if present but could not see anything after todays ride.

The mechanic checked and then excluded binding, but thanks anyway for mentioning it.

#5 Toby

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Posted 21 August 2019 - 09:03 pm

One thing to add is that once I push the lever down it does stop moving - just mentioning as I've just read that if the lever kept on moving down slowly, this may indicate a failing master cylinder.



#6 Snowbird

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Posted 21 August 2019 - 09:32 pm

I'd bleed it through with fresh fluid before shelling out on a repair kit.


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#7 steve27bha

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Posted 21 August 2019 - 10:07 pm

Thanks, I cleaned all visible parts yesterday............

Did you remove the caliper, then the pads and pump out the pistons a bit, before cleaning everything? Was there any corrosion or pitting on the pistons?

Dirt or pitting could let in air if the pistons have got stuck from non-use, and continue to do so until the fault is fixed by cleaning and rubbing down the pistons and bleeding the fluid.

 

Have you checked the fluid level in the rear reservoir? Ditto the amount of lining on the pad.

 

While the pads are out did you check their surface and clean/wire brush it to remove any rust that may have appeared while it stood for a while? Ditto the disk surfaces.

 

The age of the bike rather than its mileage is more relevant for this sort of problem, I think.

 

Check the Yamaha workshop manual for any special procedures for the ABS model.

 

If you will leave a bike for a while I suggest you rotate the wheels a bit after a couple of days to discourage any damp between the pads and disk from causing corrosion. Do the final stop with the back brake so the front pads are not clamped to the disks.


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#8 TDM4ever

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 06:50 am

I'd bleed it through with fresh fluid before shelling out on a repair kit.

 

+1

 

When was the fluid last changed?



#9 Toby

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 08:46 am

Hi Steve, no just did a shallow clean of the parts I could easily reach. Will have a think about which things in your list I can do myself (got a young baby at home so very limited time atm)

Will bear your tip in mind when parking, as it will be in storage on and off. I just never know in advance for how long.
The brake fluid reservoir is full with clear looking brake fluid. I believe it was changed with last years big service but will double check.

#10 TKH

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 04:16 pm

If there's no visible fluid leaks around the caliper cylinders,  +1 for bleeding the brake. Check the colour of the fluid. If it's got black streaks or bits in it, it needs changing. A few quid for a tin of fluid will sort it. Check the fronts as well.

 

Also worth checking that the bleed nipple will turn before doing anything. If it's seized like mine was they're a pita to free up, if it can be done at all - mine was so bad I had to get a replacement brake cylinder.

 

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Edited by TKH, 22 August 2019 - 04:23 pm.


#11 divvxj

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Posted 22 August 2019 - 04:24 pm

 

+1

 

When was the fluid last changed?

 

+1



#12 Toby

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Posted 24 September 2019 - 11:07 pm

Just in case anybody is interested, this turned out to be a bent brake disc.

Thanks for your responses though.

Tobias

#13 PICARD

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Posted 25 September 2019 - 05:52 am

How strange. Would be interested in the back story to this one. Symptoms dont say disc to me, but glad you're sorted.
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#14 Favs

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Posted 25 September 2019 - 08:27 am

Bent disc - shirley the mechanic should have spotted/checked this?

 

 

+

 

A reminder to ABS owners - keep the ignition off while ya bleed em 


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