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Electrical Fault With Tdm 850 3Vd


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#1 curlylegend

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Posted 11 February 2020 - 10:24 pm

Any words of advice here folks before I strip out my ignition switch ?

 

First noticed that my front running lamp and rear lights were out.  They don't seem to be on a separate fused circuit...according to the diagram in my Haynes manual.

I'm getting current going into the ignition switch and everything apart from the "auxilliary lamp" circuit is working. I've not went much further than that apart from verifying that there is no current flow in the blue/red cable which supplies the front and rear running lamps.

 

So what am I likely to find ?   Poor contacts in the connecting block to the ignition switch ? or bad contacts inside the switch itself ?

 

Could do without this,  until I remember the bike is nearly thirty years old.....and I've known people to die of boredom !

 

 

There is actually a very good step by step stripdown on this very site, if I need it.



#2 wicklamulla

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Posted 11 February 2020 - 10:29 pm

how ya CL,

 

I'd squirt contact cleaner into the switch cluster and see how ya get on.  Then check and clean the electrical plugs / sockets as they may be corroded.


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engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

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#3 MickC

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Posted 12 February 2020 - 10:31 am

From memory I think there are 4 wires for the ignition so disconect the connecting block and hot wire it, look in the manual 2 wires for ignition and 2 for the lights if still no lights not the ignition Id say.

Check bulbs and fuses.

Connect a wire straight from the battery to the lighting wire if the hot wire dosent work it will tell you if the power to it is ok or not multimeter will do the same but it will not make the light come on a live wire would.



#4 curlylegend

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Posted 12 February 2020 - 08:28 pm

From memory I think there are 4 wires for the ignition so disconect the connecting block and hot wire it, look in the manual 2 wires for ignition and 2 for the lights if still no lights not the ignition Id say.

Check bulbs and fuses.

Connect a wire straight from the battery to the lighting wire if the hot wire dosent work it will tell you if the power to it is ok or not multimeter will do the same but it will not make the light come on a live wire would.

 

I did this before going any further and found a lost signal somewhere in the short length of cable or the ignition switch itself.  So that was a bit of a strip down and some slow careful precision drilling.  The blue/red cable had snapped at the soldered joint, probably because of vibration due to the broken cable support bracket.

So I just re-soldered the cable, and checked and cleaned the contacts. I drilled the support bracket for the cable and rebuilt using ordinary screws with a touch of Loctite, tested and rebuilt. I also went over all the multiplugs and gave them a squirt of contact cleaner and made sure they were properly secured.

Job done !

 

[attachment=12787:Broken cable at ignition switch.jpg]

 

[attachment=12788:Re-soldered cable 1.jpg]



#5 wicklamulla

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Posted 12 February 2020 - 09:40 pm

 

I did this before going any further and found a lost signal somewhere in the short length of cable or the ignition switch itself.  So that was a bit of a strip down and some slow careful precision drilling.  The blue/red cable had snapped at the soldered joint, probably because of vibration due to the broken cable support bracket.

So I just re-soldered the cable, and checked and cleaned the contacts. I drilled the support bracket for the cable and rebuilt using ordinary screws with a touch of Loctite, tested and rebuilt. I also went over all the multiplugs and gave them a squirt of contact cleaner and made sure they were properly secured.

Job done !

 

attachicon.gif Broken cable at ignition switch.jpg

 

attachicon.gif Re-soldered cable 1.jpg

 

 

You Legend!


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#6 MickC

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Posted 13 February 2020 - 09:38 am

Good work Curly.



#7 Bjørge

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Posted 13 February 2020 - 01:37 pm

Beautiful solder, or so it seems.... :yeyeye:


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#8 fixitsan

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Posted 15 February 2020 - 05:07 pm

 

I did this before going any further and found a lost signal somewhere in the short length of cable or the ignition switch itself.  So that was a bit of a strip down and some slow careful precision drilling.  The blue/red cable had snapped at the soldered joint, probably because of vibration due to the broken cable support bracket.

So I just re-soldered the cable, and checked and cleaned the contacts. I drilled the support bracket for the cable and rebuilt using ordinary screws with a touch of Loctite, tested and rebuilt. I also went over all the multiplugs and gave them a squirt of contact cleaner and made sure they were properly secured.

Job done !

 

attachicon.gif Broken cable at ignition switch.jpg

 

attachicon.gif Re-soldered cable 1.jpg

 

 

Add your name to the list of saints you're working on !


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#9 curlylegend

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Posted 15 February 2020 - 10:46 pm

 

 

Add your name to the list of saints you're working on !

 

Come on !   I'm a mechanic....I don't do saints....or pixies....or unicorns....or angels !!



#10 wicklamulla

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Posted 16 February 2020 - 12:07 am

 

Come on !   I'm a mechanic....I don't do saints....or pixies....or unicorns....or angels !!

 

 

sacrilege!


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#11 Snowbird

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Posted 16 February 2020 - 01:09 am

 

Come on !   I'm a mechanic...

If it can't be fixed with a big hammer it must be an electrical fault....


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#12 leehenty

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Posted 17 February 2020 - 08:08 pm

most kids these days would look for the diagnostic port, as a young lad did once, training with the AA on my 1977 24 volt FFR  ex army Landrover.  


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#13 curlylegend

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Posted 17 February 2020 - 10:52 pm

I've been away from the trade for a long time now, but even then I would come across dealers with thousands and thousands of pounds worth of diagnostic kit.  And mechanics who had been on seriously expensive manufacturers training courses.  I asked one bright young spark if he remembered Ohms Law....."That's a Country and Western song, isn't it ? "

 

The bugger was serious.....!

 

Needless to say, if you had the misfortune to take your problem to that dealership they started off by replacing the battery, alternator, dashboard electronics then every control unit until the fault disappeared.



#14 Snowbird

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Posted 18 February 2020 - 09:50 am

I've been away from the trade for a long time now, but even then I would come across dealers with thousands and thousands of pounds worth of diagnostic kit.  And mechanics who had been on seriously expensive manufacturers training courses.  I asked one bright young spark if he remembered Ohms Law....."That's a Country and Western song, isn't it ? "

 

The bugger was serious.....!

 

Needless to say, if you had the misfortune to take your problem to that dealership they started off by replacing the battery, alternator, dashboard electronics then every control unit until the fault disappeared.

He must have been a "technician" then, like a mechanic but with massive brain damage......


Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.

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#15 Bjørge

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Posted 18 February 2020 - 07:49 pm

If you ever come across a mechanic which is also a good fault finder - keep that phone number and don't tell anyone!😀

Edited by Bjørge, 18 February 2020 - 07:49 pm.

Bjørge

#16 dapleb

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Posted 18 February 2020 - 08:20 pm

He must have been a "technician" then, like a mechanic but with massive brain damage......


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