Rattling From The Right Side Of The Engine When Throttling Off.
#21
Posted 15 May 2020 - 05:35 am
Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.
Save the planet, it's the only one with beer!
#22
Posted 15 May 2020 - 08:26 am
Believe me Im gonna push for the new version.
But in any case I get your point and Im taking it seriously.
My guess is they only sell the new one
#23
Posted 15 May 2020 - 08:29 am
My guess is they only sell the new one
Shame on Yamaha if they don't....
#24
Posted 15 May 2020 - 10:17 am
They only sell the superseded one - hence the different colour. If funds are low then go for a used one from 2005 onwards with the longer body otherwise risk a wrecked engine. I'd be surprised if a dealer will give you a freebie if the change was 15 years ago - Yours should have had the TPS changed to one with a better dust seal (dirt got into the sweeper arm and confused the ECU) From memory, the frame number plate should be marked with a centre punch if it had been done
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, 2014 Kawasaki W800, 2011 Aprilia Tuono 1000 V4, 2020 Yamaha XSR900
"At the cutting edge of technophobia"
#25
Posted 15 May 2020 - 10:38 am
Well, I've measured the one on the bike and it is about 38mm which makes it the old tensioner and probably the one it left the factory with.
If they old one is no longer made, then problem solved as far as the dealer is concerned although I will ask them to check it is the same part number as the new one (lifted from JBX's info page) just to be sure.
#26
Posted 15 May 2020 - 10:39 am
As Lee Henty pointed out elsewhere. if you take the end bolt from the tensioner out and insert a screwdriver in the bore, you can try taping the plunger to encourage it to slide out a bit more to take up any slack, should it be that the tensioner is sticking
900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile
#27
Posted 15 May 2020 - 02:43 pm
Edited by leehenty, 15 May 2020 - 02:44 pm.
#28
Posted 15 May 2020 - 06:27 pm
53k+ miles on my 92 Mk1.
Original CCT I believe.
Considering updating to a manual aftermarket tensioner if I can find one 🤔.
I definitely don't need a failure at this time.
Too rare in the States for that. I will gladly order from the UK/EU if anything is available.
Any information or comments on converting the original to a manual is gladly welcome. PaydayGabe in beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA.
#29
Posted 15 May 2020 - 09:56 pm
Good day Mates,,
53k+ miles on my 92 Mk1.
Original CCT I believe.
Considering updating to a manual aftermarket tensioner if I can find one .
I definitely don't need a failure at this time.
Too rare in the States for that. I will gladly order from the UK/EU if anything is available.
Any information or comments on converting the original to a manual is gladly welcome. PaydayGabe in beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA.
try here
https://www.ebay.co....04AAOSwB8tbl4Yw
"As I Lay Rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I skid and begin to slide, please dear god protect my ride"
Mods; Oil pressure switch, neoprene rear inner mudguard, scottoiler, highway pegs, fenda extenda, 1999 carbs and airbox, Kais suspension setup, later clutch springs, LED lamps, Metmachex swingarm, Hagon Shock, Oxford heated grips, 4 way fused accessory Bus, 17" 3CV front wheel, Michellin R6 tyres, GPS speedo, 5' ignition advance.
#30
Posted 15 May 2020 - 11:34 pm
They kind of look like a slab of aluminium with a coach bolt through to me, wish I'd thought of that for £30 a go.
Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.
Save the planet, it's the only one with beer!
#31
Posted 16 May 2020 - 04:29 am
#32
Posted 16 May 2020 - 08:22 am
They kind of look like a slab of aluminium with a coach bolt through to me, wish I'd thought of that for £30 a go.
I'm sure a standard Camchain body could be modified to accept a bolt
"As I Lay Rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I skid and begin to slide, please dear god protect my ride"
Mods; Oil pressure switch, neoprene rear inner mudguard, scottoiler, highway pegs, fenda extenda, 1999 carbs and airbox, Kais suspension setup, later clutch springs, LED lamps, Metmachex swingarm, Hagon Shock, Oxford heated grips, 4 way fused accessory Bus, 17" 3CV front wheel, Michellin R6 tyres, GPS speedo, 5' ignition advance.
#33
Posted 16 May 2020 - 09:05 am
#34
Posted 16 May 2020 - 12:14 pm
One quick fix if in a tight spot is to fit a marginally longer bolt in the old style body. I guess in a way its a manual tensioner of sorts.
I was just thinking about if that works. Sounds like a fix
900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile
#35
Posted 16 May 2020 - 03:01 pm
I was just thinking about if that works. Sounds like a fix
If it's any reassurance, it's not my idea! It's the quick fix if you're on the road from the JBX resource.
#36
Posted 17 May 2020 - 11:25 am
They only sell the superseded one - hence the different colour. If funds are low then go for a used one from 2005 onwards with the longer body otherwise risk a wrecked engine. I'd be surprised if a dealer will give you a freebie if the change was 15 years ago - Yours should have had the TPS changed to one with a better dust seal (dirt got into the sweeper arm and confused the ECU) From memory, the frame number plate should be marked with a centre punch if it had been done
Al the pic. on the previous page has me confused and i thought it may be incorrect as i thought the long bodied CCT was the new uprated one?
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
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#37
Posted 17 May 2020 - 02:31 pm
New one does have a longer body/barrel Wick.
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
#38
Posted 17 May 2020 - 04:11 pm
#39
Posted 17 May 2020 - 10:45 pm
New one does have a longer body/barrel Wick.
So is the info on that pic on the previous page incorrect?
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php
#40
Posted 18 May 2020 - 07:03 am
That picture comes from the JBX website. Measuring from the gasket face to the top where the lock screw is used, the longer (38mm) body is the old version, and the shorter (34mm) is the newer version. So externally the difference is not easy to spot without calipers, but internally (inside the engine) they are very different.
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