Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Changing The Handling Of A 3Vd Mk1


  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 curlylegend

curlylegend

    Carpe Addict

  • Supporting Member(thanks)
  • PipPipPip
  • 307 posts
  • Location:West of France, south of the Loire...the good bit !
  • TDM model: 1991

Posted 13 July 2018 - 08:57 am

I read with great interest the accounts of people fitting a 17inch front wheel.  Everyone seems to say that there is a distinct "improvement" in the handling.

Sure, I can appreciate doing this for several reasons, tyre choice being one of them.  In the late seventies I did similar conversions with a couple of Honda and Suzuki trail bikes. The results were....mixed ?   The two stroke Suzuki TS 250 was probably the best conversion.  I ended up with a lightweight, sharp handling bike with efficient brakes, that was great fun on some twisty Scottish roads.  As a cruiser it was crap, long runs up the A9 were no fun whatsoever.

But, I've also read about people simply dropping the front forks by as much as 25mm through the yokes and claiming "improved" handling.

 

So I'm wondering if there has been a comparative study of both of these methods ?

 

I'm sure I'm not alone in realising that for many riders, a 3VD does not handle by pure thought control. It looks like a lot of people have tried to alter this, so has anyone started by dropping the front forks and then going on to change the front wheel ?  

 

Any opinions out there ?

 



#2 dablik

dablik

    Master Intermediate Fettlin' Award 2018

  • Supporting Member(thanks)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,747 posts
  • Location:Bootleshire
  • TDM model: 1992

Posted 13 July 2018 - 09:24 am

Yes the forks are dropped on mine by 12mm and i find this aids turn in, on a previous mk1 they were dropped 25mm but this along side a 1" longer rear shock, personally i think 25mm is too much on a standard set-up, hourses for courses i guess, the only person i'm aware of that has an 17" front is drewpy on his mk2 (same wheel) and he used an FJ i think but required shimming or some such, maybe spacer reduced or made up.

 

Having had a 17" on a 9r which made a good difference i'm not so sure you would benefit with one on a mk1, it already has a shorter wheelbase anyway and i find it just about perfect on B roads with an 18", not to say it could'nt be better with a 17" though ?? your only actually going to be 1/2" lower anyway so try dropping the forks 1st and see what you think..


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 


#3 Studley Ramrod

Studley Ramrod

    Monkey Boys Monkey

  • Root Admin(A)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 19,213 posts
  • Location:HELLO ! I'm in the Library...Notts
  • TDM model: 1993

Posted 13 July 2018 - 09:30 am

Handling is a very subjective issue, some want it to handle like a sports bike, others want theirs to soak up the bumps and potholes.  I would try dropping the yokes and see how you get on with that.  Then maybe try altering the setup.  Bear in mind that you'll also be altering your riding position slightly and might find you're leaning on the bars a lot more if you dropped the yokes and fitted a smaller wheel.

 

Wider handlebars can also help with flickability. :)


Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !!  Now owned by chrisbee !   Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah !  Photos of my first MK1  Photos of my MK2a  TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan


#4 curlylegend

curlylegend

    Carpe Addict

  • Supporting Member(thanks)
  • PipPipPip
  • 307 posts
  • Location:West of France, south of the Loire...the good bit !
  • TDM model: 1991

Posted 14 July 2018 - 03:01 pm

Handling is a very subjective issue, some want it to handle like a sports bike, others want theirs to soak up the bumps and potholes.  I would try dropping the yokes and see how you get on with that.  Then maybe try altering the setup.  Bear in mind that you'll also be altering your riding position slightly and might find you're leaning on the bars a lot more if you dropped the yokes and fitted a smaller wheel.

 

Wider handlebars can also help with flickability. :)

 

 

Yes the forks are dropped on mine by 12mm and i find this aids turn in, on a previous mk1 they were dropped 25mm but this along side a 1" longer rear shock, personally i think 25mm is too much on a standard set-up, hourses for courses i guess, the only person i'm aware of that has an 17" front is drewpy on his mk2 (same wheel) and he used an FJ i think but required shimming or some such, maybe spacer reduced or made up.

 

Having had a 17" on a 9r which made a good difference i'm not so sure you would benefit with one on a mk1, it already has a shorter wheelbase anyway and i find it just about perfect on B roads with an 18", not to say it could'nt be better with a 17" though ?? your only actually going to be 1/2" lower anyway so try dropping the forks 1st and see what you think..

 

OK, I did exactly that.   What I didn't do, and now wish I had, was take a reading of a ride height.... some fixed point on the bike to the floor, I suppose.  So I've dropped the forks by 20mm and very slightly rotated the handlbars backwards and obviously adjusted the mirrors and levers accordingly.  

 

Did it make much of a difference ?

 

Yes, it did.  the steering is definitely more...what's the word I'm looking for ?....  Fluid !  Yes, undoudbtedly more fluid, less physical effort required in bends. It IS nicer to ride.

 

Has it made a huge difference ?  No.  I won't be pursuing a 17 inch front wheel.

 

Am I going to leave the set-up as it is ?   Sure am, I love it !

 

So what conclusions can I draw from this simple operation ? The centre of gravity has been lowered, which can't be bad. And the head angle has been slightly altered too, potentially giving quicker steering.  A brisk run round some familiar roads seems to bear this out. All in all a good modification.

 

 

Thanks again for your advice.


Edited by curlylegend, 14 July 2018 - 03:08 pm.


#5 dablik

dablik

    Master Intermediate Fettlin' Award 2018

  • Supporting Member(thanks)
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,747 posts
  • Location:Bootleshire
  • TDM model: 1992

Posted 14 July 2018 - 04:10 pm

Good curly, glad to see it's enough of a difference and it is noticeable, happy rail riding :)


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 



0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users