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9'er Won't Start Now. Help Please!


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#1 TKH

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Posted 16 March 2020 - 03:00 pm

This is driving me nuts. My 9'er started and ran fine about 2/3 weeks ago. I've not been able to ride it (wrist is in plaster). Came to start it again just to keep running it until I can get out riding again and it won't start.

 

I've tried:

Charging the battery (twice)

Checked the plugs and there is a spark.

Fuel pump sounds like it's priming. 

I took one of the hoses off under the tank, switched ignition on and got sprayed with fuel.

Checked the error codes . History shows 19, 20, 22 and 30 but each shows clear now, but only the 30 should prevent starting(?) and the bike has run since is was dumped after being nicked.

The starter turns over ok.

Clutch lever pulled in to mitigate side stand sensor issues.

Half a tank of fuel.

Tried closed throttle and opening the throttle

However, I sometimes get smell of fuel but not always (?). 

 

I know it'll be something simple but at the moment I don't know what that something is.



#2 steve27bha

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Posted 16 March 2020 - 05:04 pm

So you've got evidence of fuel, spark and presumably compression. That should equal a running engine, provided all are present in the cylinder.

I can only suggest, given the bike was dumped, that some crud loosened by the dumping has finally worked its way into the fuel supply downstream of the pump and blocked it, preventing the fuel getting to the cylinder.

Good luck.


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#3 fixitsan

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Posted 16 March 2020 - 05:23 pm

With the tank up you should be able to disconnect the return pipe from the fuel rail, above the throttle bodies. Also the pipes are self closing so when you disconnect them there is no flow, but, when you reconnect them , if they are not full mated you could find the fuel isn't flowing because the shutoff mechanism is active. It might be worth checking the fuel system. Also with the throttle wide open you should be able to shine a torch down the inlets and see fuel being sprayed, for additional confirmation


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#4 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 16 March 2020 - 09:20 pm

Could it be a problem with the cold start mechanism I wonder ?

 

Also, I seem to remember someone having a similar problem that was caused by an iffy ignition switch, a few on n offs of said switch and it started.


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#5 TKH

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Posted 17 March 2020 - 11:17 am

Thanks guys I'll give all those a try.



#6 wicklamulla

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Posted 17 March 2020 - 11:55 pm

how old is the fuel?


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#7 divvxj

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Posted 18 March 2020 - 08:06 am

I had to much stuff attached on  the key ring , took off the crap and left with the ign key only , less weight , problem solved , hope this helps :good:



#8 Rallyist

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Posted 18 March 2020 - 08:18 am

I had to much stuff attached on  the key ring , took off the crap and left with the ign key only , less weight , problem solved , hope this helps :good:

Excess metal work around the keys upsets the immobilizer coil located around the switch


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#9 wicklamulla

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Posted 18 March 2020 - 10:04 am

I had to much stuff attached on  the key ring , took off the crap and left with the ign key only , less weight , problem solved , hope this helps :good:

  not the first time i have read this.  I'd also hook up a different battery and give it a go.


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



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#10 TKH

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Posted 18 March 2020 - 02:04 pm

how old is the fuel?

 

Put it in end November


I had to much stuff attached on  the key ring , took off the crap and left with the ign key only , less weight , problem solved , hope this helps :good:

 

Thanks. Sadly I only used single key. I tried both black and red.


  not the first time i have read this.  I'd also hook up a different battery and give it a go.

 

Battery is only 6 months old (YUASA) but I'll give that idea a try. 



#11 dablik

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Posted 18 March 2020 - 07:26 pm

Try starting again and re-check codes Kieth, wonder if the crank sensor has gone west, just a thought and it will swap with i think the speedo sensor to try, bit of a pain but might be last resort effort...Also a corroded connector cable under the tank has been found on 2 occasions i remember, wire had corroded through, CB was one of them...


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#12 drewpy

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Posted 18 March 2020 - 08:11 pm

is there a tip sensor which shuts off  the injectors ?


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#13 wicklamulla

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Posted 19 March 2020 - 10:45 am

that fuel is getting on a bit,  cud be ok but i'd wanna rule it out. 


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

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#14 SJCA

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Posted 20 March 2020 - 06:17 pm

Have you tried bump starting it? You will probably need someone to give you a push !!



#15 TKH

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Posted 21 March 2020 - 03:42 pm

Try starting again and re-check codes Kieth, wonder if the crank sensor has gone west, just a thought and it will swap with i think the speedo sensor to try, bit of a pain but might be last resort effort...Also a corroded connector cable under the tank has been found on 2 occasions i remember, wire had corroded through, CB was one of them...

 

Thanks Cliff, I'll check all of them to rule out.


Have you tried bump starting it? You will probably need someone to give you a push !!

 

Thanks. The road is level by us so no nice hills to roll down, will leave that for now but it's one to remember.  


that fuel is getting on a bit,  cud be ok but i'd wanna rule it out. 

 

Thanks. Fuel has been on my mind too. I was concerned that any water would now be in the system. I'll go for Cliffs options first but draining and cleaning out the fuel system is now on my list to try.


is there a tip sensor which shuts off  the injectors ?

 

Thanks Andrew, do you mean the lean angle sensor? If so, I have had it trigger in the past but it shows as clear now.



#16 ramo

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Posted 21 March 2020 - 04:48 pm

I personally would not worry about the fuel if its been in since Nov 2019, lots of additives in it nowadays,

in the last month I have stared 3 bikes an SP1 fuel been in since July 2017, a Blackbird fuel been in since Feb 2017 and another Blackbird the fuel had been in since 2011,

all started with a jump, no fuel change, 

I think lots of people leave bikes with fuel in them for long period's, especially through winter, I bet Sidestand has a few that do?



#17 chrisr

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Posted 22 March 2020 - 10:38 am

I know you have charged the battery, but is it a good one, the 900 needs a hell of a lot of whack to get it started, as for bump starting it from cold, good luck with that! I did it once and it nearly finished me off! Otherwise Im sure itll be something simple, like a connector or broken wire, the problem is finding it!

Edited by chrisr, 22 March 2020 - 10:39 am.

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#18 wicklamulla

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Posted 22 March 2020 - 11:35 am

I personally would not worry about the fuel if its been in since Nov 2019, lots of additives in it nowadays,

in the last month I have stared 3 bikes an SP1 fuel been in since July 2017, a Blackbird fuel been in since Feb 2017 and another Blackbird the fuel had been in since 2011,

all started with a jump, no fuel change, 

I think lots of people leave bikes with fuel in them for long period's, especially through winter, I bet Sidestand has a few that do?

 

 

ya i have managed to start bikes before on old fuel but i no longer risk it.  Fuel can go off quicker than you think. 


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



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#19 TKH

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Posted 22 March 2020 - 05:08 pm

OK tried again today. Fuel is going in ok but now I don't have a spark, so will look at that next. Weird thing re the battery. My multimeter reckons I have about 12 volts across the battery but the diag mode reckons I have 11.1. Battery is a YUASA bout 6 months old. I tried charging with a different charger but same as the other. Will hook it up to my car battery next week.

 

Went through the diag modes again as Cliff suggested, cleared down the history. The only one that confuses me is number 2 atmospheric pressure says 101?

 

Something else, the manual I've got says when using diag mode to check things, for the coils (30,31) and injectors (36,37) the engine warning light should flash but it doesn't.

 

Will try to rig something to lift the tank - probably use a step ladder, hard work with one hand though :lol: . That'll teach me not to fall off steps!


I know you have charged the battery, but is it a good one, the 900 needs a hell of a lot of whack to get it started, as for bump starting it from cold, good luck with that! I did it once and it nearly finished me off! Otherwise Im sure itll be something simple, like a connector or broken wire, the problem is finding it!

 

Chris -  I have only got it started from cold once with a bump. 4 guys pushing down hill! The battery dies fairly quickly from cranking so might be a fault.



#20 dandywarhol

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Posted 22 March 2020 - 08:31 pm

I'm still thinking of a dodgy ignition switch. Graphite grease down the lock and copious wiggling sorted mine - don't use WD40


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