32 replies to this topic

[Studley Ramrod]

A healthy battery should be reading around 12.8v anything less than 12.5v could be an indication as to why it won't start.  It might not have the oomph (amps).

[TKH]

A healthy battery should be reading around 12.8v anything less than 12.5v could be an indication as to why it won't start.  It might not have the oomph (amps).

 

Thats what I was worried about. Trying car battery today.

I'm still thinking of a dodgy ignition switch. Graphite grease down the lock and copious wiggling sorted mine - don't use WD40

 

Thanks, i'll give it a go.

[wicklamulla]

 

Thats what I was worried about. Trying car battery today.

 

Thanks, i'll give it a go.

 

 

yes there have been a few cases with TDM 900 ignition barrels playing up,  personally i reckon they suffer if they have too much weight dangling from them with additional keyfobs, house keys, padlock key to the male only S&M gear, etc etc

[dandywarhol]

 

 

yes there have been a few cases with TDM 900 ignition barrels playing up,  personally i reckon they suffer if they have too much weight dangling from them with additional keyfobs, house keys, padlock key to the male only S&M gear, etc etc

 

but I do find the gimp mask appropriate for supermarket shopping these days

[wicklamulla]

 

but I do find the gimp mask appropriate for supermarket shopping these days

 

the mask on it's own wouldn't be too much of a problem but the cue ball is a step to far.

[TKH]

 

 

yes there have been a few cases with TDM 900 ignition barrels playing up,  personally i reckon they suffer if they have too much weight dangling from them with additional keyfobs, house keys, padlock key to the male only S&M gear, etc etc

 

I don't have a padlock key or fob on mine.

[TKH]

OK so I've tried new battery and gone through all the connections under the tank. I've opened the up each connector, blast with brake cleaner to get rid of any loose dust, checked each connector for continuity - ie tested each end of the connector where the wires go in. I've checked the immobiliser connection and it appears to be working i.e. bike will turn over but no fuel pump when it's disconnected. I've loaded the barrel up with grease, tried both black keys again and given them a wiggle. 

I'm still not getting any errors in diag mode. The resistance of the coils is within tolerance. I guess the next thing is off with the ignition barrel.

While I had the tank up I checked the cold start mech just in case. 

I'm still not getting any errors in diag mode. The resistance of the coils is within tolerance. I guess the next thing is off with the ignition barrel and see if I can find any problems with that. All the fuses look test ok. 

Edited by TKH, 25 March 2020 - 01:27 pm.

[fixitsan]

OK so I've tried new battery and gone through all the connections under the tank. I've opened the up each connector, blast with brake cleaner to get rid of any loose dust, checked each connector for continuity - ie tested each end of the connector where the wires go in. I've checked the immobiliser connection and it appears to be working i.e. bike will turn over but no fuel pump when it's disconnected. I've loaded the barrel up with grease, tried both black keys again and given them a wiggle. 

I'm still not getting any errors in diag mode. The resistance of the coils is within tolerance. I guess the next thing is off with the ignition barrel.

While I had the tank up I checked the cold start mech just in case. 

I'm still not getting any errors in diag mode. The resistance of the coils is within tolerance. I guess the next thing is off with the ignition barrel and see if I can find any problems with that. All the fuses look test ok. 

 

 

I would put the multimeter on the switched side of the coil, while the engine turns over, to check it's switching down. And then do the same on one of the injectors. Both coils and injectors have a permanent 12V supply on one side, and the other side is switched down to ground to activate it

 

If they're both being pulsed then you can probably infer that the ignition control system is working.

 

I would take the fuel rail return pipe off and see what's happening with the fuel as you crank the engine, obviously some petrol could spurt out of there so have something to hand to catch it. Then that would prove that fuel is moving through the fuel rail , preferably under pressure.

 

I would normally think that if the fuel pump is activating then fuel will be flowing, but if the pump or fuel pipes in the tank have split or have another fault, then you won't have much pressure at the injectors

[TKH]

 

 

I would put the multimeter on the switched side of the coil, while the engine turns over, to check it's switching down. And then do the same on one of the injectors. Both coils and injectors have a permanent 12V supply on one side, and the other side is switched down to ground to activate it

 

If they're both being pulsed then you can probably infer that the ignition control system is working.

 

I would take the fuel rail return pipe off and see what's happening with the fuel as you crank the engine, obviously some petrol could spurt out of there so have something to hand to catch it. Then that would prove that fuel is moving through the fuel rail , preferably under pressure.

 

I would normally think that if the fuel pump is activating then fuel will be flowing, but if the pump or fuel pipes in the tank have split or have another fault, then you won't have much pressure at the injectors

 

Thanks. That's a good thought. I'll give that a go.

[wicklamulla]

Fixitsan / Studley / et al

 

Isn't there one particular electrical plug/socket that corrodes or suffers from vibration and one of the wires needs to be cleaned up or re-made?  I cannot remember where it is but i assume tis under the fuel tank.

[dablik]

Your right Ken, been mentioned further up the posts, but oi fink he's been and checked it, bit of a mystery this one innit..

[fixitsan]

Fixitsan / Studley / et al

 

Isn't there one particular electrical plug/socket that corrodes or suffers from vibration and one of the wires needs to be cleaned up or re-made?  I cannot remember where it is but i assume tis under the fuel tank.

 

Yes it's a relay under the tank. The symptom which I had was that the fuel pump wouldn't fire up, but everything else seemed okay. Off the top of my head I think I had an error code

[dandywarhol]

With a dicky ignition switch the engine turns over as per normal but the engine won't fire up. It happened with mine a few times til I cleaned down the barrel with electrical cleaner spray and used graphite grease down the keyhole, wiggling it on/off for ages til it worked