Stripping down my 92 850 3VD and stuck on trying to free the bolt holding the rotor on. It should break free at 100 ft/lbs, but the thing is making me nervous.
Shop manual says nothing about it being a LH thread, but better to ask then do damage.
Tdm Rotor Bolt Rh Or Lh Thread?
#1
Posted 08 April 2019 - 08:11 pm
#2
Posted 08 April 2019 - 09:09 pm
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#3
Posted 09 April 2019 - 03:52 am
As I recall, when I replaced my front rotors I had to use vise grips on a couple of them to get them started. That was after spraying them liberally with penetrating oil. I was replacing the bolts anyway, so I didn't mind buggering them up. Grabbing them around the circumference with vise grips gave me the extra torque I needed to brake them free. I good tap with a hammer may help too, provided you can do it without bending anything,
#4
Posted 09 April 2019 - 09:05 am
You merkins with yer rotor talk, very confuzing. Think Phracker is talking alternator rotor bolt.
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
#5
Posted 09 April 2019 - 10:22 am
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#6
Posted 09 April 2019 - 03:17 pm
Ahhh mix a ma rotors
That's what makes rabbits grow 3 eyes innit!
Aluminium Welding with Parkinson,s
#7
Posted 09 April 2019 - 05:09 pm
As I recall, when I replaced my front rotors I had to use vise grips on a couple of them to get them started. That was after spraying them liberally with penetrating oil. I was replacing the bolts anyway, so I didn't mind buggering them up. Grabbing them around the circumference with vise grips gave me the extra torque I needed to brake them free. I good tap with a hammer may help too, provided you can do it without bending anything,
I apologize, this is the stator rotor bolt that holds it onto the crank.
It was fun to google because all I was seeing was brake parts.
Will take a crack at it this weekend.
#8
Posted 10 April 2019 - 01:00 am
It would help if you Brits would learn to speak English! That goes for Canadians too!
#9
Posted 10 April 2019 - 07:51 am
It would help if you Brits would learn to speak English! That goes for Canadians too!
That's rich coming from that side of the pond considering what you did to the proper English language.
For a challenging summer try the
Round Britain Rally.....
1993 TDM 850 Mk1 ..... 2008 TDM 900 .... 1975, 1979, 1982, 1992 Goldwings, Scott, AJS, Triumph 5TA
#10
Posted 10 April 2019 - 09:11 am
You dont say why you are srtipping your engine so if this helps I undid my rotor bolt but could not get the rotor itself off so I left it on split the cases (MK2) and took it down to my freindly garage to pull off for me so If you are stuck leave it on and get a garage or even a tyre fitter to undo the bolt with their air rachet hammer thingy but if you cant then get the rotor off you will need a garage.
If you ar not doing anything with the crank or rotor leave it alone,no need to take it off
#11
Posted 10 April 2019 - 05:26 pm
That's rich coming from that side of the pond considering what you did to the proper English language.
tire??
#12
Posted 10 April 2019 - 05:29 pm
You dont say why you are srtipping your engine so if this helps I undid my rotor bolt but could not get the rotor itself off so I left it on split the cases (MK2) and took it down to my freindly garage to pull off for me so If you are stuck leave it on and get a garage or even a tyre fitter to undo the bolt with their air rachet hammer thingy but if you cant then get the rotor off you will need a garage.
If you ar not doing anything with the crank or rotor leave it alone,no need to take it off
I did the same, my puller couldn't hack it. The puller at the garage bent and cracked but eventually came off. It cost them more for the replacement puller than the £15 I paid !
900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile
#13
Posted 10 April 2019 - 06:18 pm
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#14
Posted 10 April 2019 - 07:45 pm
I apologize, this is the stator rotor bolt that holds it onto the crank.
The stator is the collection of windings inside the cover and the rotor is the part with the magnets. The stator is stationary and the rotor rotates (just following the speekin propah inglish theme)
Cockford Olly
900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile
#15
Posted 10 April 2019 - 08:03 pm
I did the same, my puller couldn't hack it. The puller at the garage bent and cracked but eventually came off. It cost them more for the replacement puller than the £15 I paid !
Mine cost me a pack of sausages----we do are own pork
#16
Posted 10 April 2019 - 08:13 pm
The stator is the collection of windings inside the cover and the rotor is the part with the magnets. The stator is stationary and the rotor rotates (just following the speekin propah inglish theme)
Cockford Olly
Yeah, it was a haste reply. Should have been a touch more clear on my description.
Not a bad idea at all to work around it. If I can, then that saves me the grief of trying to pull the bloody thing off.
Basically, motor got pulled after a pile of issues started to stack up.
1) Valve seals leaking since the day I bought it (8+ years ago and 50,000km)
2) Output shaft threads are done. Last guy (Always their fault really) wasn’t kind to the bike and I think the nut spun off once on him. I got lucky on the first sprocket change, but chased the threads with a die I had and used a little blue threadlock. 2nd time I switched it out I got that 6th sense that the threads were stripping at 20ft/lbs when torqueing up. I spun it off and put on a thin layer of JB weld epoxy and then snugged it up as best I could.
*Bought a spare 3 years back and have just been waiting for the right time to swap it.
3) 3rd gear has lost the will to do any work. Can gingerly get it to shift, but will pop out if under high load or I rev over 3000. Not sure what I will do here, first I need to see what is causing the issue.
Also have found some other concerns, but I will wait and see what the state of the engine is first and work backwards.
Bottom line is I need to get into the transmission to swap the output shaft and troubleshoot the 3rd gear issue.
It would help if you Brits would learn to speak English! That goes for Canadians too!
That's rich coming from that side of the pond considering what you did to the proper English language.
Hey now, let's just get a pint and try to find a sport we can all quietly watch on the telly. Maybe get lucky and split a plate of food.
#17
Posted 11 April 2019 - 03:39 pm
Yeah, it was a haste reply. Should have been a touch more clear on my description.
Not a bad idea at all to work around it. If I can, then that saves me the grief of trying to pull the bloody thing off.
There was one rotor I couldn't get off the crankshaft and took the risk of rebuilding with the rotor still attached to the crank out of the engine cases, which had to be split anyway. I took the chance with the crankcase oil seal behind the rotor, that I would be able to get it to reseat in the cases without it leaking. I think the 850 crank oil seal is in two halves, seated in the cases, so if that's the case you should be fine to leave the rotor on the crank.
When it comes to setting everything back up, from memory you need to use the crank/rotor slotted keyway as a reference mark to position the crank in roughly the correct alignment with the other rotating parts, but it will all become obvious as you dismantle it.
900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile
#18
Posted 12 April 2019 - 03:59 pm
The bolt is the easy bit, once thats oot the way a puller will get it off but you may poo yer pants when it finally gives in as they often make one helluva bang.
Daps what's prefered type of puller to get the rotor off ! 3 legged variety (ya know how long) or a puller wot fits in the rotor bolt hole ?
Might be a job on
Edited by dablik, 12 April 2019 - 04:00 pm.
Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.
Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead Gone to Heaven
1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space Sorted and on the Road Mick it's the bike that Jack built Gone to Heaven
#19
Posted 12 April 2019 - 05:23 pm
Summat through the rotor might be more elegant if you can get it to work.
I bought a harmonic balancer remover recently and wondered if that might be a useful remover of rotors.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#20
Posted 12 April 2019 - 05:51 pm
Yep just been looking at the Harmonic balancer/puller thingy which might be a good solution, but needs to be long enough across the rotor, any idea of the width if ya grey cells can remember, mind aint you got one with a shrub innit in the garden
Might ask me friendly mechanic if he fancies wuppitin it off maybe..
Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.
Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead Gone to Heaven
1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space Sorted and on the Road Mick it's the bike that Jack built Gone to Heaven
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