Clutch Replacement.
#1
Posted 27 September 2016 - 09:18 am
Cheers
#2
Posted 27 September 2016 - 09:25 am
Gear change problems could also point to a drive chain that doesn't have enough slack dialled in?
55-60mm.
#3
Posted 27 September 2016 - 11:18 am
Gear change problems could also point to a drive chain that doesn't have enough slack dialled in?
55-60mm.
thought it was 40 - 50mm?
"As I Lay Rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I skid and begin to slide, please dear god protect my ride"
Mods; Oil pressure switch, neoprene rear inner mudguard, scottoiler, highway pegs, fenda extenda, 1999 carbs and airbox, Kais suspension setup, later clutch springs, LED lamps, Metmachex swingarm, Hagon Shock, Oxford heated grips, 4 way fused accessory Bus, 17" 3CV front wheel, Michellin R6 tyres, GPS speedo, 5' ignition advance.
#4
Posted 27 September 2016 - 12:16 pm
thought it was 40 - 50mm?
Buzzo runs a 2007, guessing a 900 then, so they run looser. 55-60mm = 900. Thanks for the opportunity to clear up any possible confusion.
So
Gear selection issues anyone?
Most straightforward cause, amongst many other possibilities = drive chain too tight.
#5
Posted 27 September 2016 - 03:42 pm
thanks for that, new to TDM's so trying to understand them
"As I Lay Rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I skid and begin to slide, please dear god protect my ride"
Mods; Oil pressure switch, neoprene rear inner mudguard, scottoiler, highway pegs, fenda extenda, 1999 carbs and airbox, Kais suspension setup, later clutch springs, LED lamps, Metmachex swingarm, Hagon Shock, Oxford heated grips, 4 way fused accessory Bus, 17" 3CV front wheel, Michellin R6 tyres, GPS speedo, 5' ignition advance.
#6
Posted 27 September 2016 - 06:48 pm
1. Do you adjust the clutch cable at both ends, down at the clutch case cover and up at the handlebar/lever? Still run out of adjustment? Is the cable short or long?
2. Do you have OEM non-adjustable clutch lever or an aftermarket reach-adjustable one now adjusted for easy reach close to bar grip? I.e. too short stroke?
3. Some and enough free play, but not too much at the lever?
A friend had clutch problems on his MT07, problem was dirty and/or not wet enough friction plates. By just disassembly the clutch stack, clean the plates and soak them in plenty of fresh oil before reinstalling solved his problems completely.
Edited by and30ers, 27 September 2016 - 07:47 pm.
#7
Posted 28 September 2016 - 01:12 am
Questions:
1. Do you adjust the clutch cable at both ends, down at the clutch case cover and up at the handlebar/lever? Still run out of adjustment? Is the cable short or long?
2. Do you have OEM non-adjustable clutch lever or an aftermarket reach-adjustable one now adjusted for easy reach close to bar grip? I.e. too short stroke?
3. Some and enough free play, but not too much at the lever?
A friend had clutch problems on his MT07, problem was dirty and/or not wet enough friction plates. By just disassembly the clutch stack, clean the plates and soak them in plenty of fresh oil before reinstalling solved his problems completely.
Hi friend's
I had this problem recently in my TDM 850 2001.
The discs were glued together and with a little lubrication. I did exactly as you said
Also changed the clutch cable.
PS: After cleaning of parts made measurements:
discs and springs were the measures within tolerance as manual.
Result; i have a new clutch.
Cheers!
Edited by Sidarta, 28 September 2016 - 01:15 am.
Att
Sidarta
TDM850 ano 2001 Honda XLX 250 1988
Honda Tornado 2005 - Honda CB400 1982
Honda CB350 1972 e 1973
#8
Posted 28 September 2016 - 05:13 am
-Yes the chain has a bit over 60mm of slack, almost touching the swing arm.
-The old and new cables seem a bit long. I've run out of adjustment at the standard hand lever and have 3 threads protruding past the adjustment nut at the engine end.
-only a slight amount of free play at the lever.
I'm very interested in cleaning the plates. Sticking seems to make sense the way it feels. What did you use to clean the friction plates?
#9
Posted 28 September 2016 - 05:34 am
http://www.biltema.s...gen-2000033852/
Edited by and30ers, 28 September 2016 - 05:40 am.
#10
Posted 28 September 2016 - 05:38 am
Running out of adjustment with a new cable? Time to go in for a look and see.
2002 TDM900 Yellow
#11
Posted 28 September 2016 - 07:41 am
#12
Posted 28 September 2016 - 09:27 pm
This has made me wonder about mine.
I'm due an oil change soon, and was putting it down to that, but things mentioned here make sense too.
I replaced the cable on my first TDM with the same results (no real improvement on adjustment take up).
It was a genuine Yam cable, but from Greece...??
Do you need the alignment tool when doing this work - I know Mr Henty has one he made...
Also - while on the subject of cables - whats the best thing to lubricate the cable itself, and how do people do theirs...?
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#13
Posted 28 September 2016 - 10:21 pm
Edited by and30ers, 28 September 2016 - 10:26 pm.
#14
Posted 29 September 2016 - 05:52 am
I dip the cable in an oil container/drum and spin the inner with a drill in the direction that draws the oil up. Look at the inner, you'll see what I mean.
Thinking about a clutch for mine as I can make it slip on power.
Edited by Catteeclan, 29 September 2016 - 05:52 am.
2002 TDM900 Yellow
#15
Posted 29 September 2016 - 06:11 am
As for lube I use engine oil. Loosen cable both ends. Make a funnel from a plastic bag (think zip lock type), from one corner of the bag cut a 10 cm radius making it look like a 25% pie chart. Then cut a small hole in the centre of the cone, pull over the cable sleeve, secure funnel to cable sleeve with rubber band, fold back over the end and your funnel is done. Fill funnel with oil and jerk cable in-out-in-out etc. until engine oil drip from the lower end of cable. You might have to refill funnel a couple of times.
I dip the cable in an oil container/drum and spin the inner with a drill in the direction that draws the oil up. Look at the inner, you'll see what I mean.
Thinking about a clutch for mine as I can make it slip on power.
I'd heard this one before with slight change in that its left (overnight) for all the oil to run through (catch bottle at bottom).
As for lube I use engine oil. Loosen cable both ends. Make a funnel from a plastic bag (think zip lock type), from one corner of the bag cut a 10 cm radius making it look like a 25% pie chart. Then cut a small hole in the centre of the cone, pull over the cable sleeve, secure funnel to cable sleeve with rubber band, fold back over the end and your funnel is done. Fill funnel with oil and jerk cable in-out-in-out etc. until engine oil drip from the lower end of cable. You might have to refill funnel a couple of times.
This sounds interesting...get what you mean about "thread"!
-----
Fuel Pipes
Givi Top Box
Renthal 758's
Grip Puppies
MRA Bubble
Dip & Hi HIDs
To-Do:
LED DRLs
Loobman
Powercoat Wheels
Hand Guards
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............
#16
Posted 12 February 2017 - 05:07 pm
I take it that those with spinning up clutches aren't using car engine oil?
#17
Posted 12 February 2017 - 05:45 pm
This has made me wonder about mine.
I'm due an oil change soon, and was putting it down to that, but things mentioned here make sense too.
I replaced the cable on my first TDM with the same results (no real improvement on adjustment take up).
It was a genuine Yam cable, but from Greece...??
Do you need the alignment tool when doing this work - I know Mr Henty has one he made...
Also - while on the subject of cables - whats the best thing to lubricate the cable itself, and how do people do theirs...?
This was still unanswered.
The manual says use of Yamaha tool for the job, but having never done any clutch work on the TDM, I don't know really whats required.
Going to replace the cable on mine anyway as I'm 65K in with the original cable, so it can't hurt. I've got a spare set of EBC plates from the original TDM that never made it onto the bike before it was striped for spares...
I've read the "cleaning" of plates on a number of occassions, and can understand how this improves things, as the plates can be a place to attract a build up of goop...
-----
Fuel Pipes
Givi Top Box
Renthal 758's
Grip Puppies
MRA Bubble
Dip & Hi HIDs
To-Do:
LED DRLs
Loobman
Powercoat Wheels
Hand Guards
-----
............
#18
Posted 12 February 2017 - 08:37 pm
Looking at the service manual, you don't need a special tool to replace the clutch plates matey. I didn't use an alignment tool on the 8fiddly and it was fine.
Depending on the cable you get, you might not need to lube it. I got a Slinky Glide wan and it's teflon coated so doesn't need oiling.
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#19
Posted 12 February 2017 - 09:06 pm
I fitted a TDM 850 clutch in my XTZ750 (broadly speaking the same engine as the 900, all one big happy family of twins ) , no special tools necessary. What mileage are you at Buzzo? My 900 is at 85K miles and the clutch is just as good as when I bought it at 6k miles.
2002 TDM900 in glorious yellow, NOW SOLD
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#20
Posted 12 February 2017 - 09:07 pm
Looking at the service manual, you don't need a special tool to replace the clutch plates matey. I didn't use an alignment tool on the 8fiddly and it was fine.
Depending on the cable you get, you might not need to lube it. I got a Slinky Glide wan and it's teflon coated so doesn't need oiling.
Just read over the process again, and I think I must have been referring to the "universal tool" to hold the plates while removing/installing the clutch boss nut.
As it's "universal" I guess something like THIS will do the job...
-----
Fuel Pipes
Givi Top Box
Renthal 758's
Grip Puppies
MRA Bubble
Dip & Hi HIDs
To-Do:
LED DRLs
Loobman
Powercoat Wheels
Hand Guards
-----
............
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