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Laying Up Yer Boike Fir Winter


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#1 wicklamulla

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Posted 21 January 2019 - 01:36 pm

So ya used ta be able ta leave fuel in the tank and not worry about it going 'off or stale'.  I get twitchy now if me chainsaw fuel is more than 4 weeks old but seeing as i get thru a fair bit s'not bin a problem.

 

On yer TDM's do ya drain the tank dry in the winter (will it rust a bit internally with no fuel in dare?) or do ya brim the tank and mix in an additive loike Seafoam etc?

 

What do ye recommend?

 

 

 

 


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#2 dapleb

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Posted 21 January 2019 - 02:01 pm

Change oil.
Fill fool tank if I can be bothered.
Don't leaf suspension hanging too long.
Check tyre pressures and start every month or so.

There are lots of other things but I never needed them: fuel additives, remove battery etc etc
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#3 drewpy

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Posted 21 January 2019 - 02:12 pm

I use Millars dry fuel, absorbs water out of the fuel and gets burned with the rest.

 

optimate on a rota basis with the other bikes, wheel it back and forth every now and then.

 

I'm lucky my garage is part of the house so its quite warm in there although I put cloths on for dust


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#4 Nog

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Posted 21 January 2019 - 02:50 pm

If truly leaving never to be used for the whole season:

 

I'd drain the oil and leave it empty, drain the tank and run the carbs dry (for carb'ed bikes).  Take battery out and bring inside to the warm and give it a little charge now and again.

 

 

If a possibility you might use it now and again:

 

Fill tank with premium fuel (less ethanol, if any) and add a dash of stabiliser straight away.  Brim back up with premium fuel after any runs.

 

Personally I don't agree with the regular start up.  It simply means your cold starting your engine routinely and not getting the revs up to properly pump oil around.  Also possibility of then leaving condensation in there.  Better to take it for a proper run if you're going too to burn off any condensation.  If the choice is to start now and again, run it fully up to temp and let the fan cycle a couple of times at least to really get some heat into the oil and then give it some revs to get the oil flying around.



#5 Favs

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Posted 21 January 2019 - 03:58 pm

$0.02

Battery on a normal battery charger via a timer switch set 4 times a day for 5 - 10 mins each time.


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#6 fixitsan

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Posted 21 January 2019 - 04:53 pm

Battery monthly top up, never left on a battery disgorger/deoptimiser. It's not a religious thing, i have a voltmeter to hand and just check the batteries of my bikes once-every-time-it-feels-like-it's-been-a-while-since-I-last-checked, or ran it. It's amazing how quickly they can deteriorate once they drop below starting volts.

 

Never had a stale fuel problem, certainly not anything under 6 months of storage wise at least


Edited by fixitsan, 21 January 2019 - 04:54 pm.

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#7 dapleb

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Posted 21 January 2019 - 05:01 pm

Oooh forgot most important thing .... Claim back remaining tax.
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Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#8 Robodene

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Posted 21 January 2019 - 05:22 pm

Fill the tank, battery on tender sharing, carpet under the wheels. Never had a problem. I would only start the engine for a run.
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#9 Gdogg

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Posted 21 January 2019 - 07:26 pm

Nov - give it a damn good wash and polish up, lube chain, stick it up on paddock stands, fill the tank to the brim with fuel & additive and smother it with Oxford bike cover with heaps of blankets underneath especially under rear mudguard around seat/shock/battery box area, just to keep the chill & dust off in the garage, been doing it for yonks never had any issues yet on start up in April when it'll get another damn good clean, sling the battery on charge, fire it up, check it over - brakes, lights, so on and so forth, change the oil and away we go again  :good:


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#10 James

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Posted 21 January 2019 - 10:45 pm

So ya used ta be able ta leave fuel in the tank and not worry about it going 'off or stale'.  I get twitchy now if me chainsaw fuel is more than 4 weeks old but seeing as i get thru a fair bit s'not bin a problem.
 
On yer TDM's do ya drain the tank dry in the winter (will it rust a bit internally with no fuel in dare?) or do ya brim the tank and mix in an additive loike Seafoam etc?
 
What do ye recommend?

Hang on. Do you actually get winter in Devon? ;)

Edited by Jim, 21 January 2019 - 10:45 pm.

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#11 ramo

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 07:50 am

Didn't think there was a need to add fuel stabiliser nowadays, especially for a few months?

 

oil change, top the fuel up, disconnect the battery, wipe down with ACF 50, all good for a lay off.

 

mind you mine does get used now and then, did 180 miles last wednesday, 150 of it twas pissing it down,

 

I have a mate who has numerous bikes with fuel in more than a couple of years old, all start and run first time, he does as above,

 

I personally wouldn't worry about petrol going off in a year 

 

wicki think your chainsaws different matter, 2 stroke ? 



#12 Nog

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 09:21 am

Didn't think there was a need to add fuel stabiliser nowadays, especially for a few months?

 

Completely agree it should be fine, as over winter the cold weather and brimmed tank reduces the higher volatiles from evaporating off.  The stabiliser is just a belt and braces approach.

 

It wont do any harm and I have some to put in the lawn mower as that gets left longer so I think why not.

 

As I say, using premium (super etc) is best as there's less ethanol (I think there's actually none at all in the UK super unleaded, not sure) so less chance of water absorbing in too.  Either leave it full or completely empty, not inbetween.



#13 Johnners

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 09:30 am

Good covering with ACF before roads get salted and ride it on sunny winter days 😎😃

#14 LewisBlackburn

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 10:49 am

I've never done any of this In the last 5 years after I stopped riding to work. 

 

Last ride of the year is usually September upto Scotland. Then I just pop it in the garage and put the optimate on. 

I always do a service in the spring or before the first ride of the year to make sure everything is OK before getting back on, then have the MOT a couple of months later in June. 

 

 

Not really Ideal, but its still chugging along.



#15 Robodene

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 10:53 am

Searching around for info on ethanol content, I have come across Esso. It seems it depends where you fill up as to whether or not your premium fuel contains ethanol. For most of us premium fuel is ethanol free.

https://www.esso.co.uk/fuels-faqs
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#16 divvxj

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 07:08 pm

cover it in acf 50 and ride in all weathers me



#17 jono49

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Posted 23 January 2019 - 10:24 pm

I was advised by a proper old school bike mechanic to fill up with the higher octane fuel from a none supermarket supplier at the end of the season due to having less ethanol, and leave older oil in and change for the new season ahead closer to spring time and the start of the season.


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#18 TKH

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Posted 24 January 2019 - 12:59 pm

Esso say:

The majority of unleaded 95 Octane petrol sold in the UK contains up to 5%ethanol as required under the Government's Renewable Transport Fuels Obligation (RTFO). There is currently no requirement for renewable fuel (such as ethanol) to be present in super unleaded (97 grade petrol).

 

Shell say:

Ethanol is a renewable non-fossil fuel. ... This means that, in the UK, Shell regular unleaded and Shell V-Power unleaded are likely to contain some ethanol, but it will not be present at more than 5% (in accordance with current UK specification requirements).

 

BP:

It is restricted to special vintage car and powerboat racing applications. BP Ultimateis the highest octane retail fuel that BP has on the market. It has an octane rating between 98 and 100 and does not contain ethanol.

 

So it depends where you buy it from.




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