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Mk1 TDM850 Electric Fuel Pump Install


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#1 Guinness

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Posted 29 March 2006 - 08:40 pm

original http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5941

QUOTE("StevePSD")
I was bored the other day so........

I just replaced my stock vacuum fuel pump with a
electric unit from a 1999-2002 Yamaha YZF-R6. I
bought the pump off ebay for $20.



Here are a series of pics of the install:

http://tinyurl.com/pcjc4

The install went very easy. I had to make a bracket
to mount the pump to one of the existing vacuum fuel
pump mounting holes. If you look at the pics, you can
see the bracket is nothing more than a 2.75" long
piece of 1.5" steel angle, with a couple of mounting
holes and two relief cuts to clear the frame.

The pump is rubber isolated, via the factory mount (it
clamps around the fuel pump body). Very quiet and
vibration free install.

Since the fuel pump draws so little current (only .7
amps - measured), I decided not to use a relay as
others have done, and wire it directly into the 10A
fused ignition circuit, (this is how the YZF-R6 is
wired as well).

Next to the battery are two existing relays, the
larger one next to the left frame rail is the safety
interlock relay. A input into this relay is the
ignition circuit, after it has gone thru the kill
switch. This circuit is a 'red/black' wire. I tied
the fuel pump positive line (black/blue) into this
wire. Power is applied to the pump only when the
ignition switch is on and the kill switch is in the
'run' position. I ran the fuel pump negative wire
(black) directly to the negative terminal of the
battery.

On the R6 pump, the inlet pipe is 3/8" in diameter,
and the outlet is 5/16". The existing fuel line is
5/16". Luckily my pump came with the inlet fuel hose,
which is 5/16", but had been factory formed to fit
over the 3/8" inlet. I cut this line to the
appropriate length and used a 5/16" brass nipple to
connect it to the existing fuel supply line. (Sorry for the imperial measurements - we have not been metricsized over here)

For the outlet, I used a metal fuel filter (from a
1980 Ford Bronco with a 302/350 V-8 motor) . This was the
smallest fuel filter I could find that had 5/16"
inlet/outlets. This connected directly to the
existing line to the carb. Any filter that is suitabily sized will work just fine, as the pump only puts out around 2psi.

Using this setup no bike mods were required. And
everything can be changed back without issues.

The bike does seem to be more responsive since putting
on this pump. I have read that at higher RPM the
stock fuel pump cannot supply enough fuel and on a
dyno they have observed a 5+hp loss due to this. As a
side benefit, you don't have to worry about priming
the vacuum pump when you run out of fuel!

A YRF-R1 is a bit easier to mount, as you don't have
to make a bracket, and both fuel lines are 5/16".

Hope this helps.

I'm an insomniac agnostic dyslexic. I lay awake at night and wonder if there really is a dog.

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#2 itsatdm

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Posted 31 March 2006 - 05:30 am

I just finished this mod. I had to use a relay as I was blowing fuses or the starter button just would not work unless I unplugged the fuel pump. Don't know why but it works fine with the relay in place. Maybe my old vacuum pump was just weak but I cannot believe the difference the electric pump made. The bike is much more tractable, pulling easily from 2,000 in 5th gear. The engine feels both smoother and stronger. Wish I had done this 52,000 miles ago.

#3 Walt_M.

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Posted 04 April 2006 - 11:17 am

Looks like I'll be doing this mod soon. I was running some errands yesterday, had about 1/2 tank of fuel and it just quit running! I was going about 60 mph and it went on 1 cylinder then none. I tried to start it a couple of times with no luck, turned it on reserve with the same result. Finally shook the bike to slosh the gas around to make sure I wasn't out, pulled the choke and it started. Rode it to the gas station and topped it off, took 2.4 gallons.
It misfired on me under similar conditions about 2 months ago so I suspect the pump. I have an electric one already, supposed to be from an R6 but mine is different from the one in the photos. The fuel nipples are straight and both are 3/8 inch. I have tested it though and it does work so I'll be installing it shortly.
I will post my results.

#4 Dazzo

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Posted 06 April 2006 - 08:49 am

Best of luck Walt good.gif
This has to rank up there with bluespot callipers as a worthwhile mod.
Just in case the method Steve describes doesn't work for you I've attached the diagram I posted on the old forum.

Attached Files


Edited by Dazzo, 06 April 2006 - 08:52 am.


#5 dapleb

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Posted 06 April 2006 - 09:16 am

More from Dazzo's pioneering Fuel pump work:

Taken from this Old Thread


QUOTE("Dazzo23")
Mine was doing this, don't know if it means it's dead or not BUT mine did let me down on my way to work at 5:00am one morning.
I then fitted an electric fuel pump with some online guidance from Coxylad and it's all better now biggrin.gif
No petrol smell and easier starting ohmy.gifk: , plus for some reason the bike feels more responsive at all throttle openings :?
Worthwhile mod for the Mk1.
Here's the thread in question http://www.carpe-tdm...light=fuel pump


QUOTE("Dazzo23")
Following Coxy's directions I wired it using an inline fuse and a relay, the feed for the pump is direct from the battery via the relay and fuse, the relay is activated by tapping in to a live after the fuse box.....
:?
I'll draw a diagram one day soon :oops:



QUOTE("Dazzo23")
At risk of my fragile ego been smashed by flaming ( tongue.gif ) here's how I wired my fuel pump, I sought advice for the fuse size from my local car parts dealer, he recommended the 10amp size, willing to accept further advice on the size or position of the fuse.





Best of luck :wink:


QUOTE("Dazzo23")
Mine's a R1 pump, this is very one I bought from fleabay



Both pipes are the same diameter though, hope you haven't got one from the injection model mate

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#6 Walt_M.

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Posted 09 April 2006 - 04:04 pm

Sad to say, looks like mine is from the FI model. At least it didn't cost much, maybe I can use it on my Vision. There are a couple of correct R1 pumps on fleabay, right now. I'll try to snag one.
Thanks for the 'head's up'.

#7 Guest_ParamedicThad_*

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Posted 12 September 2006 - 05:39 pm

I just received my fuel pump purchased from ebay for $36 including shipping...

I plan on using the instructions listed here as well as in the inital post on this topic,

I have a question as I'm not the most mechanically able person if you know what I mean..

What should I be looking/asking for when I go to buy the relay?? is there a certain model or type of relay that is appropriate?? I see the diagram calling for a 10 amp fuse but don't really know what to look for in a relay.

Thanks in advance for your help!!

Thad

#8 TonyDevil

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 12:29 am

i'm wondering if this would smooth out my throttle response, it seems to be getting more on/off like, or maybe thats something to do with my style of riding..... doubtfull.gif

how long does this take?
mines coming up for its service (or will be after i put 3000miles on it in Sweden,Norway,Denmark & some other bits of Northen Europe at beginning of Oct) and i thought i'd get the mechanic to fit it for me. He's already fitting some WP progressive fork springs for me, so might aswell leave it with him for the whole day.
"Never argue with an idiot. They just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience"
My TDM :
Black 1991 850 MK1, 160k+ miles(ish, best guess really, gave up trying to keep count after 3rd set of clocks and 3rd engine), PilotRoad2 tyres, custom stubby exhaust system, bluespot calipers & goodridge braided hoses with dunlopads, maxton forks, Ohlins shock, kedo handguards, stainless TDM grill, Scottoiler with lubetube & dual nozzle thingy, Givi Wingrack2 with E45 & 2xE36s, renntec crash bars, Autocom with blueteeth & PMR radio, TomTom Rider2, Optimate IIIsp, Bagster tank cover, anti-dazzle coating
to fit : led spotlights, heated grips, new braided lines and rear caliper that actually has bleed nipples
Silver-ish 2003 900, 70k miles, PilotRoad3 front tyre (new@65k) & PR2 rear(new at 69k), Renthal 755 bars with KTM handguards, oxford unheated grips, power commander 3usb, scorpion titanium exhausts, standard screen with vario winglet thingy, stainless grill, oem centre stand, bagster tank cover, givi monokey topplate mounted on grabrail with V46 topbox, Givi PL pannier rails with E21s, crash bungs, mirror extender thingys, Halfords Advanced Laser Blue brillance bulbs, 21w led spotlights, touring scottoiler with leehenty dual nozzle, Autocom with blueteeth & PMR radio, TomTom Rider3 Urban, winter style anti-dazzle coating
to fit : led brake light strip, replacement heated grips

current rides : TDM850 3vd/mk1=tourer&scratcher, TRX850=weekend twisty toy, TDM900=commuter, Z750 hardtail=project
gone but not forgotton : XTZ750=overland touring toy, GS500e, GS125

If you don't like my answers you should cease asking stupid questions!

#9 john westcott

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Posted 13 September 2006 - 08:49 am

I did'nt bother with a relay, to much trouble. I used some guys hook up from a thread somewhere around here. Wired it up just like the R1, straight up no problems and much less trouble.
MK1 850. Sonic, Hagon, Yosh, Factory
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#10 Guest_ParamedicThad_*

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Posted 17 September 2006 - 12:57 pm

QUOTE(john westcott @ Wed 13th Sep 2006, 03:34 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I did'nt bother with a relay, to much trouble. I used some guys hook up from a thread somewhere around here. Wired it up just like the R1, straight up no problems and much less trouble.


ReallY??? I was thinking I read on here that doing it that way was asking for trouble?? unsure.gif

#11 Guest_ParamedicThad_*

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Posted 19 September 2006 - 10:09 pm

Just finished this project! It didn't take too long and even a rookie like me can do it!! Thanks to all for posting tips/hints etc. on this site!!!!

#12 TonyDevil

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Posted 20 September 2006 - 10:11 am

QUOTE(ParamedicThad @ Tue 19th Sep 2006, 10:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Just finished this project! It didn't take too long and even a rookie like me can do it!! Thanks to all for posting tips/hints etc. on this site!!!!

did u put a relay in?
another novice here now thinking of doing that mod
"Never argue with an idiot. They just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience"
My TDM :
Black 1991 850 MK1, 160k+ miles(ish, best guess really, gave up trying to keep count after 3rd set of clocks and 3rd engine), PilotRoad2 tyres, custom stubby exhaust system, bluespot calipers & goodridge braided hoses with dunlopads, maxton forks, Ohlins shock, kedo handguards, stainless TDM grill, Scottoiler with lubetube & dual nozzle thingy, Givi Wingrack2 with E45 & 2xE36s, renntec crash bars, Autocom with blueteeth & PMR radio, TomTom Rider2, Optimate IIIsp, Bagster tank cover, anti-dazzle coating
to fit : led spotlights, heated grips, new braided lines and rear caliper that actually has bleed nipples
Silver-ish 2003 900, 70k miles, PilotRoad3 front tyre (new@65k) & PR2 rear(new at 69k), Renthal 755 bars with KTM handguards, oxford unheated grips, power commander 3usb, scorpion titanium exhausts, standard screen with vario winglet thingy, stainless grill, oem centre stand, bagster tank cover, givi monokey topplate mounted on grabrail with V46 topbox, Givi PL pannier rails with E21s, crash bungs, mirror extender thingys, Halfords Advanced Laser Blue brillance bulbs, 21w led spotlights, touring scottoiler with leehenty dual nozzle, Autocom with blueteeth & PMR radio, TomTom Rider3 Urban, winter style anti-dazzle coating
to fit : led brake light strip, replacement heated grips

current rides : TDM850 3vd/mk1=tourer&scratcher, TRX850=weekend twisty toy, TDM900=commuter, Z750 hardtail=project
gone but not forgotton : XTZ750=overland touring toy, GS500e, GS125

If you don't like my answers you should cease asking stupid questions!

#13 Guest_ParamedicThad_*

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Posted 20 September 2006 - 01:10 pm

Sure did, the relay was pretty inexpensive and it only took an extra 10 minutes. I figured as long as I was going through all the trouble, it was worth it.

Mounting was a little tricky... I didn't fabricate a bracket as instructed above. Instead, I bought a bolt double in length to replace the one holding the end of the gas tank down, and ran it up from the botttom through the R1 pump bracket, then up through the tank mount.

My camera is broken or I would have snapped a pic to share.

#14 Guest_ParamedicThad_*

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Posted 30 March 2007 - 07:45 pm

Finally I've taken pics of this mod... I used the same pump as pictured in this thread.. from an R1 (not sure of the year.)

I opted to use a relay as it's just a few bucks more and simple to wire. (believe me, if I can do this... ANYBODY can!)

Forgive me for not having a "before" picture...

Obviously my work is not near as clean as other photos in the thread, but it's essentially the same. I have taken several photos to show how I mounted the pump: single bolt up from bottom through pump mount then secured to tank mount with a couple extra nuts. Be sure to leave enough bolt sticking up so you can secure your tank!

I've moved the wires/relay out of the way in one of the pics for a better view.









I probably should secure the relay... and I'm not sure I need three separate fuel filters so I may ditch the two small ones, although I don't guess they're hurting anything are they??

It's been months since I completed this mod. All my stalling & slow starting problems are gone. Much thanks to those who posted in this thread before me! Couldn't have done it without your input!!

-Thad

#15 jht

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Posted 18 April 2007 - 02:13 pm

Doing this mod at the moment with R1 pump on my MkII

Where have people taken their switched live feed from if they've fitted a solenoid?

ta v muchly

Edited by jht, 18 April 2007 - 02:43 pm.

Done: Homo sap navigation/ twisty thing on bars to make it go vroom/ grabby thing to make it stop (in front of twisty thing)/ 'leccy things front and rear to make it glow at night/ Sucky + drippy oiler thing to keep chains moist (!!) / Laser Pro Stock Race pipes / bleeding ear drums (see previous mod)
To do: Educate homo sap nav system to operate twisty + grabby things/ get ear plugs

All Trashed Now... Pants... its a Cat B Mwahahaha it lives again!!


Remember every driver is a deaf myoptic twat who is out to kill you, ALWAYS assume they are going to do THE most f*cking DUMBASS, STUPID manouver possible, at the worst possible moment; get past, and get past quick

#16 Beedenb

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Posted 18 April 2007 - 03:40 pm

Hi
I'm also in the middle of this mod and the switch feed is on the large relay red black wire located by the forks LH side. with the key switch on and the Kill switch on you should have battery voltage

Beedenb

#17 jht

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Posted 18 April 2007 - 07:12 pm

Ta
trying to hunt something down nearer shock, batt, fuse box end as thats where I've got loom for fuel pump.
was thinking tee-ing off from R brakelight switch feed...

tho light has stopped play for today
Done: Homo sap navigation/ twisty thing on bars to make it go vroom/ grabby thing to make it stop (in front of twisty thing)/ 'leccy things front and rear to make it glow at night/ Sucky + drippy oiler thing to keep chains moist (!!) / Laser Pro Stock Race pipes / bleeding ear drums (see previous mod)
To do: Educate homo sap nav system to operate twisty + grabby things/ get ear plugs

All Trashed Now... Pants... its a Cat B Mwahahaha it lives again!!


Remember every driver is a deaf myoptic twat who is out to kill you, ALWAYS assume they are going to do THE most f*cking DUMBASS, STUPID manouver possible, at the worst possible moment; get past, and get past quick

#18 wicklamulla

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Posted 19 April 2007 - 09:18 am

QUOTE(Beedenb @ Wed 18th Apr 2007, 04:25 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi
I'm also in the middle of this mod and the switch feed is on the large relay red black wire located by the forks LH side. with the key switch on and the Kill switch on you should have battery voltage

Beedenb

Beedenb if yer TDM is a 1999 or indeed a 2000 model then you don't need to do this mod as it's already got an electric fuel pump fitted from factory !

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

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#19 TonyDevil

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Posted 19 April 2007 - 09:36 am

QUOTE(wicklamulla @ Thu 19th Apr 2007, 10:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Beedenb if yer TDM is a 1999 or indeed a 2000 model then you don't need to do this mod as it's already got an electric fuel pump fitted from factory !

in that case, would it be better to use a post-1999 TDM electric fuel pump rather than a one from an R1/R6 ?
"Never argue with an idiot. They just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience"
My TDM :
Black 1991 850 MK1, 160k+ miles(ish, best guess really, gave up trying to keep count after 3rd set of clocks and 3rd engine), PilotRoad2 tyres, custom stubby exhaust system, bluespot calipers & goodridge braided hoses with dunlopads, maxton forks, Ohlins shock, kedo handguards, stainless TDM grill, Scottoiler with lubetube & dual nozzle thingy, Givi Wingrack2 with E45 & 2xE36s, renntec crash bars, Autocom with blueteeth & PMR radio, TomTom Rider2, Optimate IIIsp, Bagster tank cover, anti-dazzle coating
to fit : led spotlights, heated grips, new braided lines and rear caliper that actually has bleed nipples
Silver-ish 2003 900, 70k miles, PilotRoad3 front tyre (new@65k) & PR2 rear(new at 69k), Renthal 755 bars with KTM handguards, oxford unheated grips, power commander 3usb, scorpion titanium exhausts, standard screen with vario winglet thingy, stainless grill, oem centre stand, bagster tank cover, givi monokey topplate mounted on grabrail with V46 topbox, Givi PL pannier rails with E21s, crash bungs, mirror extender thingys, Halfords Advanced Laser Blue brillance bulbs, 21w led spotlights, touring scottoiler with leehenty dual nozzle, Autocom with blueteeth & PMR radio, TomTom Rider3 Urban, winter style anti-dazzle coating
to fit : led brake light strip, replacement heated grips

current rides : TDM850 3vd/mk1=tourer&scratcher, TRX850=weekend twisty toy, TDM900=commuter, Z750 hardtail=project
gone but not forgotton : XTZ750=overland touring toy, GS500e, GS125

If you don't like my answers you should cease asking stupid questions!

#20 jht

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Posted 19 April 2007 - 11:14 am

QUOTE(wicklamulla @ Thu 19th Apr 2007, 10:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Beedenb if yer TDM is a 1999 or indeed a 2000 model then you don't need to do this mod as it's already got an electric fuel pump fitted from factory !


"in that case, would it be better to use a post-1999 TDM electric fuel pump rather than a one from an R1/R6 ? "


Ok....

so why has no one mentioned this before............ hm.gif


















why not then, huh??!!?? whatcha.gif
Done: Homo sap navigation/ twisty thing on bars to make it go vroom/ grabby thing to make it stop (in front of twisty thing)/ 'leccy things front and rear to make it glow at night/ Sucky + drippy oiler thing to keep chains moist (!!) / Laser Pro Stock Race pipes / bleeding ear drums (see previous mod)
To do: Educate homo sap nav system to operate twisty + grabby things/ get ear plugs

All Trashed Now... Pants... its a Cat B Mwahahaha it lives again!!


Remember every driver is a deaf myoptic twat who is out to kill you, ALWAYS assume they are going to do THE most f*cking DUMBASS, STUPID manouver possible, at the worst possible moment; get past, and get past quick


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