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900Abs Rear Wheel Replacement


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#1 DaveM

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Posted 20 June 2023 - 06:18 pm

Hi All,

 

Some time since I have asked a question on here.

 

I have had the rear wheel off for a puncture repair, but I'm struggling to get it back on. I know I have done this many times before with a non ABS bike and I'm sure I have done it before with this one, but I am really struggling to get the wheel back on as I can't get the ABS sensor and brake caliper bracket lined up to get the axle in.

 

Any tips? Am I missing something? do I need to remove brake pads to make it easier?.

 

Cheers Guys

 

Dave



#2 Catteeclan

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Posted 20 June 2023 - 06:23 pm

Could remove the brake caliper and ABS sensor to allow free movement.


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#3 MArk2

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Posted 20 June 2023 - 07:26 pm

Did you loosen the 12 mm bolt allowing the calliper mounting to move Mark.



#4 Johnners

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Posted 20 June 2023 - 07:51 pm

Shove the axle in from the other side. Garage did that last time I had a new tyre. I had the wheel out recently for new chain and sprockets. Have to admit, it's easier inserting axle from the left.

#5 DaveM

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Posted 20 June 2023 - 09:14 pm

All good stuff.

 

  • Yep, have taken off the bolt to allow caliper bracket to move.
  • Never thought of trying the axle from opposite side, could be a good shout.
  • Presume detaching the sensor is just the one allen head bolt?

Dave



#6 catsbum

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Posted 21 June 2023 - 05:35 am

Take the caliper off

 

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#7 fixitsan

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Posted 21 June 2023 - 06:47 am

I used to use a long wooden wedge under the back wheel, which I got off an old mechanic, which made it really easy to align the rear wheel vertically.

 

When you look through the holes where the axle should go, can you see which component is out of alignment ?


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#8 DaveM

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Posted 22 June 2023 - 09:13 pm

Thanks All,

 

Caliper off and axle in from chain side did the trick



#9 steve27bha

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Posted 23 June 2023 - 12:42 pm

Mechanically the axle should enter from the RHS and the nut is on the left, so that it tends to tighten.


TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     gallery_179098_391_770.jpg sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg gallery_179098_391_253.jpg gallery_179098_391_82.jpg gallery_179098_391_725.gif gallery_179098_391_797.jpg gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg gallery_179098_391_501.jpg gallery_179098_391_316.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg gallery_179098_391_106.jpggallery_179098_391_2170.jpg gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg

 

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#10 Favs

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Posted 23 June 2023 - 07:35 pm

Mechanically the axle should enter from the RHS and the nut is on the left, so that it tends to tighten.


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#11 fixitsan

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Posted 27 June 2023 - 07:57 am

Mechanically the axle should enter from the RHS and the nut is on the left, so that it tends to tighten.

 

Is that a legacy issue which the 900 skips, given that the head of the axle has flats on it which are locked by the spacing plate, which inhibits it's rotation ?


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#12 DaveM

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Posted 27 June 2023 - 12:34 pm

Once I had it lined up I swapped it round so it came in from the right but:

 

  • ABS light now flashing - any ideas?
  • Is there any point to the pad backing plates. Ones on there are pretty tired and last set of pads did not come with replacements

Dave



#13 Catteeclan

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Posted 27 June 2023 - 01:04 pm

Once I had it lined up I swapped it round so it came in from the right but:

 

  • ABS light now flashing - any ideas?
  • Is there any point to the pad backing plates. Ones on there are pretty tired and last set of pads did not come with replacements

Dave

Might need a run up the road to sort itself.


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#14 Snowbird

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Posted 27 June 2023 - 01:19 pm

If ignition has been on and rear wheel registering movement while front wheel still it's likely to confuse it, as said a run will likely clear it.


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#15 steve27bha

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Posted 27 June 2023 - 08:55 pm

 

Is that a legacy issue which the 900 skips, given that the head of the axle has flats on it which are locked by the spacing plate, which inhibits it's rotation ?

 

Maybe, but why not do it proper like, as indicated by the theory, and illustrated by the shop manual and parts diagrams?

 

It's also easier to use the torque wrench for tightening the nut without it interfering with the exhaust, footrest etc..
 


TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     gallery_179098_391_770.jpg sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg gallery_179098_391_253.jpg gallery_179098_391_82.jpg gallery_179098_391_725.gif gallery_179098_391_797.jpg gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg gallery_179098_391_501.jpg gallery_179098_391_316.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg gallery_179098_391_106.jpggallery_179098_391_2170.jpg gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg

 

CBX750FE in reserve; Cagiva N90 125 now rebuilt & in use.


#16 fixitsan

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Posted 28 June 2023 - 06:55 am

 

Maybe, but why not do it proper like, as indicated by the theory, and illustrated by the shop manual and parts diagrams?

 

It's also easier to use the torque wrench for tightening the nut without it interfering with the exhaust, footrest etc..
 

 

OK I'm sold :)


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#17 catsbum

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Posted 28 June 2023 - 04:05 pm

Might need a run up the road to sort itself.

Agreed, will go off in a short time

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#18 DaveM

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Posted 01 July 2023 - 02:13 pm

Yep,

 

Cleared soon as I rode off.

 

Cheers Guys

Dave




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