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Tdm 850 Oil Pressure Switch Installation Guide


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#1 hammerman

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Posted 29 April 2010 - 09:37 pm

Credits :

This guide is based on information originally found here:

http://jbx9.free.fr/...ex.php?page=OPS

The topic was discussed, and a solution found here:

http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=16514

Without the skills and determination of leehenty, I would still be searching for the oil pressure switch / adapter to be able to do this - thanks Lee

Installation procedure:

1. Remove the top fairing from the bike (The Haynes Manual details how to do this)

2. Remove the nuts holding the instrument cluster on and the speedo cable (circled). Also disconnect the two black wiring plugs (also circled)





3. Remove the five screws holding the instrument cluster together (note the one at the bottom right is a smaller screw). The arrow in this photo shows the spare warning lamp socket.







4. Carefully separate the two halves of the instrument cluster, take care not to put greasy fingerprints on the instrument faces. The spare warning light socket is blanked off (indicated in photo)



5. Carefully knock the blanking plug out from the rear of the cluster.





6. The hole you are left with is 10mm in diameter, if you have a warning lamp or filter to fit this, simply push it in, using a little glue if necessary.

7. If you need to use a bigger warning lamp, you may need to enlarge the hole (I used one of these)



from here : http://www.vehicle-w...rninglights.php

The above lamp is 12mm so I needed to enlarge the hole to fit it.

8. Carefully knock the light panel out from the rear of the unit (use a piece of wooden dowel or something else soft).



Enlarge the hole, the metal is fairly thin and delicate, I just used a 12mm drill bit and twisted it through by hand. The resulting hole was a little
rough but, once the lamp was fitted this didn't show.

9. Fit the lamp / filter using a little glue if necessary



10. Put the instrument cluster back together (note the two bolts circled on this photo are fake, don't try to undo them you'll just make a mess!)



11. Looks pretty good



12. Wiring time, the brown wire with the ring connector circled is going to provide a 12 v +ve feed for our oil pressure warning lamp. We also need to connect a bulb or wiring to the new lamp and seal it from the elements.

13. I had a spare bulb holder (seen here fitted with a LED wedge bulb)



14. Here we see the brown ring terminal on the temp gauge disconnected ready to be connected along with the blue wire to the 12v +ve supply. The bulb holder is now fitted to the cluster.



15. Crimp a small ring terminal to your +ve wire (blue in this case), solder it too if you want.



I added some heat shrink to the bottom of the ring terminal too.



16. Connect the new ring terminal and the old brown one together and screw them back in the original position (clean the old one up if necessary)



17. Solder a length of wire to the -ve wire on your blub holder (black one a few photos back) and feed the wire through the PVC sleeve on the back of the cluster. Crimp / solder some sort of connector with a weather proof cover on the end. This will allow you to completely remove the instrument cluster at a later date if you need to. Also tidy the wiring up with cable ties or tape on the back of the cluster.



18. All we need to do now is run a length of wire to the location of the oil pressure sensor on the left had side of the engine. Crimp / solder another connector with a weather proof cover on it to this wire and connect it to the one you just did.



19. Reinstall the instrument cluster on the bike, with the two mounting nuts. Connect the two black connectors and the speed cable. Also tidy the wiring up





20. The new wire is going to need protecting, I covered it in PVC wiring protection, but spiral wrap or braided wiring covering would both work. Secure the new wire to the existing loom with cable ties or tape.

These are available from here:

http://www.vehicle-w...ng/sleeving.php



21. Secure the new wire to the existing loom with cable ties or tape, keep this as tidy as possible









22. The wire routed to the left hand side of the engine, the oil pressure switch will be installed in place of the banjo bolt indicated.



23. Crimp / solder a ring terminal to the end of the wire



24. Remove the banjo bolt from the left side of the bike and replace it with the oil pressure switch (you may need to loosen the engine mounting bolts (circled) to give you enough room to work.



OK now the difficult bit, the oil pressure switch needs to be torqued to 21Nm / 15.49 ft/lb, but you can't get a socket on the switch to do this. A 22mm crowsfoot wrench will fit quite nicely. But it extends the length of your torque wrench by an inch or so, so we need to do a calculation.

My torque wrench is 9 inches long and my crowsfoot adapter is 1 inch long :

15.49 ft /lb x 9" / 9" + 1" = 13.941 ft/lb (so 13.9 ft / lb on torque wrench with crows foot on equals 15.49 ft /lb without)

It's all explained here:

http://www.cditorque...e_adapters.html

25. The oil switch installed



26. Add a short length of mountain bike inner tube for an effective cover / boot.




27. The instruments installed on the bike



28. Wiring diagram


Edited by hammerman, 03 May 2010 - 06:44 pm.


#2 TDMick

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Posted 29 April 2010 - 09:58 pm

Eggsellent write up


KB please?

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#3 TheThigh

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Posted 30 April 2010 - 07:06 am

First class write up, concise, clear, easy to follow instructions with lots of piccies.

Bravo Hammerman good.gif

Charlie
Currently - 2008 Red 900 ABS - 19k - 12v Socket - K & N Air Filter - Power Commander III - Mirror Extenders - Hepco & Becker Junior Panniers and Top Box - Fuel Exhausts - Pilot Road 2 Tyres.

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#4 dablik

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Posted 30 April 2010 - 11:59 am

hammermann brilliant write up clapping.gif however it's still doubledutch to me laugh.gif

I think you and leehenty should consider opening the Carpedian bike shop for us numpty's.

Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead

 

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#5 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 30 April 2010 - 12:48 pm

Knowledge base ? Great write up tup.gif

Is there any reason why you chose that location for the switch and not the banjo bolt on the cylinder ?

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#6 hammerman

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Posted 30 April 2010 - 01:03 pm

It was the location detailed in the original link

http://jbx9.free.fr/...ex.php?page=OPS

I guess that either location would work, the banjo on the block is more accessible.


Thanks for all the positive comments everyone, don't forget Lee had a big part in this too.

QUOTE(Studley Ramrod @ Fri 30th Apr 2010, 01:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Knowledge base ? Great write up tup.gif

Is there any reason why you chose that location for the switch and not the banjo bolt on the cylinder ?



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Posted 30 April 2010 - 03:55 pm

QUOTE(Studley Ramrod @ Fri 30th Apr 2010, 01:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Knowledge base ? Great write up tup.gif

Is there any reason why you chose that location for the switch and not the banjo bolt on the cylinder ?


You could put it there 850's have more room under there, the 900's are too tight. If the body of the switch does not foul the carb inlets then yes it is possible.

But there is a restrictor in the banjo bolt on the engine consisting of a 1.4 mm hole. This is also on the top banjo (same part number). they don't really need two but putting in two different parts just adds cost. The bottom position was chosen as the switch has a larger hole feeding a smaller hole pressure will be maintained in the pipe. A small hole feeding a larger hole pressure would drop.

It is possible to do it this way round on the cylinder head, but a brass adapter with precision drilling's and VW switch is the way to go.

I would not advise doing this with the Citroen switch conversion.

The idea is to read oil pressure at the bottom end, reading after a restrictor may give false readings.

The cams are under much less load than the crank and big ends, so they need less oil hence the 1.4mm hole. Engines fail in the big ends when they lose oil pressure, rarely in the cam area before the bottom end.

This is why engines have oil jets of a certain size in the gearbox as roller bearings need oil, but not under high pressure like a shell bearing. The jets also maintain oil pressure in the gallery or it would take the line of least resistance and just squirt out.

Designing all this and getting the oil pump flow right is quite a science. TDM 850's must be about right or the engine would be unreliable. Having been in production in one form or another for near 20 years with few problems in this area says it all.

The optimum should be to have the relief valve on the pump lifting at all times, keeping pressure constant, in practise this usually happens at higher revs. Oil pumps cost money and this is not a racing or aero engine after all.


Lee H

Edited by leehenty, 30 April 2010 - 04:05 pm.


#8 Guest_leehenty_*

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Posted 02 May 2010 - 12:06 am

I just thought I would add the options available if the supply of Citroen switches runs out.

Most modern sensors are normally open, i.e. closes the switch when the oil pressure is above the set point.

Old fashioned Citroen sensors are normally closed and open the switch above the set point. The reason modern sensors do this, is to monitor the wire to the sensor. If it breaks, the light will come on. A pdf is attached to show the two circuits.

The 560 ohm resistor is to current limit the circuit to about 18 ma @ 12 volts. LED is the way to go, no bulbs to change. (I checked this current in my son's Crocodile clips simulator program)

Lee H

Edited by leehenty, 02 May 2010 - 12:23 am.


#9 hammerman

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 06:57 pm

Guide now finished.

Hope it is useful to everyone.

#10 Guest_leehenty_*

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 07:22 pm

Hi all, after a bit of lateral thinking, banging my head on the wall and milling bits of alloy to develop the 900 conversion, I have now made one in brass 18mm hex which uses the Intermotor 50770 5.8 -10.2 psi normally closed Citroen sensor. The solution came to me after looking at another bike in bits and measuring. The Citroen sensor must be turned down to 10.2 mm dia, 12mm long and threaded 10mm x1, or whatever 10mm thread you put in the adapter. It does however need a fine thread.



You will have to make a custom spaced banjo bolt. This will be in stainless so carbide tips and lubricant is a must or go very slowly with HSS tools.

Start with A4 (316) Stainless 35mm M10 x 1.25 Allen bolt, drill 1.4mm holes at 6.0mm and 17.0mm from head into centre drilled 4mm bore up shaft of bolt. 4mm wide grooves centered over side holes down to 9.15mm dia to provide flow to banjo. ( Drawing to follow) ( The ideal bolt for this but somewhat expensive, is a 40mm cap screw threaded 20mm. I have only found them here:
www.a2stainless.co.uk/M10-x-1-25-x-40mm-Socket-Capscrew-A2_AEDT.aspx select part threaded 20mm.)

Turn down top of head to 7mm high. Size length of shaft from head shoulder to 32.1mm, don't forget to chamfer thread and countersink bore slightly.

CLEAN this very carefully, make sure no swarf remains. Install with a cut down end of 8mm allen key and 8mm spanner.

This is the full photo guide here:

http://s923.photobuc...20Modification/


You will have to use the top circuit in the pdf below to make a normally open sensor work as it should.

The best switch for this is Intermotor 50770, normally closed where the switch earth's the light. I have tried other sensors, but this is the best I have found. If you use a normally open sensor the circuits are provided below.

Attached Files


Edited by leehenty, 23 May 2010 - 04:56 pm.


#11 dablik

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 07:37 pm

Bloody eck lee......you done it again.....well done that man yeahbaby.gif rockon.gif

Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space  :) Sorted and on the Road Mick :P :P it's the bike that Jack built ;)


#12 3vd

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 08:12 pm

Cool, how much do I owe you?

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 09:13 pm

QUOTE(maximuspetrolhead @ Mon 3rd May 2010, 09:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Cool, how much do I owe you?


I thought the 900 boys would be interested, However, this is the first developed one I have made. It is fitted to my bike for now for testing and sorting out any issues.

I will have them available for sale in the future, but I have to work out how much they cost to make, iron out the bugs and see where the best place for the lamp is.

They are nowhere near as easy as the Citroen job, as you start from scratch, and there is a fair amount of parallel milling, turning drilling and tapping.

I am having my brother make Autocad drawings of them which I will publish on the forum.

When everything is ready, a kit of bits will be in the for sale section.

Maximuspetrolhead, you have PM about this.

Edited by leehenty, 04 May 2010 - 03:24 am.


#14 TDMick

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 09:49 pm

Lee
U ave PM
Mick

Growing old is compulsory, growing up is optional
Who dies with the most toys wins!

 
 
2010 'stealth' grey 900. '14 plate. engine bars, Centre stand, datatool alarm, datatag, E22s, Cree DRLs, Barkbuster handguards, Carpe sticker. Led running lights
 

 


#15 wicklamulla

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 09:53 pm

well done, will they fit an 850 i wonder ?

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#16 Guest_leehenty_*

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 09:57 pm

QUOTE(wicklamulla @ Mon 3rd May 2010, 10:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
well done, will they fit an 850 i wonder ?


There is an 850 one already developed in the previous threads, http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=17013

This is also in the for sale section.





#17 Guest_Cozzy_*

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 12:14 pm

Looks the job. good.gif Maybe I'm missing the point here and please excuse me but why? There's oil light in the dashboard on 9er, doesn't it do the same job? I'm guessing the oil dashlight lights up when oil's low, not when the oil pump fails or pressure's dropping, right? Is the mod like an 'early warning' indicator?

#18 dmmsta

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 02:27 pm

QUOTE(Cozzy @ Thu 6th May 2010, 01:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Looks the job. good.gif Maybe I'm missing the point here and please excuse me but why? There's oil light in the dashboard on 9er, doesn't it do the same job? I'm guessing the oil dashlight lights up when oil's low, not when the oil pump fails or pressure's dropping, right? Is the mod like an 'early warning' indicator?


Dash light is for Low Oil Level.

Yes - this is an early warning if pressure drops (for whatever reason)

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#19 SteveK

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 05:10 pm

One small question, when you say 'Normally open' does this mean that the contacts close when the pressure is low. Just wondering about the fail safe mode should the wire fall off or become broken.
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#20 tdm850rider

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 05:22 pm

QUOTE(hammerman @ Mon 3rd May 2010, 02:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Guide now finished.

Hope it is useful to everyone.

Moved to KB/accessories.
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