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3Vd Thermostat Cover Leak Fix


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#1 Bigbill55

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 02:09 pm

My 3VD recently began leaking coolant from the thermostat cover, It appears to be a common problem, caused by the cover warping. I removed the complete thermostat housing to investigate further, and found that the cover was quite flexible, and if I pushed the centre of the cover I could close the gap that had appeared between the cover and the housing. So I decided to make a bracket to apply pressure to the centre of the cover. Looking through my off cuts of scrap I decided on a strip of 3mm x 20mm. A bit of metal bashing in the vice, and 20 minutes later I had knocked it into shape, making sure that when the bracket was touching the centre of the housing, there was about 2mm clearance beneath the ends to allow it to pull down when tightened. The holes were marked and drilled, and the excess cut off the ends. A couple of coats of paint and it was done. It has pulled the cover flush with the housing all the way round. Hope this idea helps as it appears to be a very common problem.

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#2 dapleb

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 02:25 pm

Neat fix. OEM just need another bolt or two hey!!

I also extended the wiring to thermo so that a ridiculous amount of gubbins doesn't have to be removed to access it.
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#3 MickC

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 05:47 pm

Nice work BigBill.



#4 SingleCylinder

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 06:56 pm

Looks good


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#5 Bjørge

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 07:57 am

Clever !  :good:


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#6 wicklamulla

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 09:06 am

very good.  a few weeks ago a chap on a Facebook TDM page manufactured an aluminium one using CNC milling machines or such loike. 


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#7 drewpy

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 12:19 pm

looks good, might just do this anyways when I replace the cyl head


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#8 wicklamulla

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 12:30 pm

looks good, might just do this anyways when I replace the cyl head

 

 

agreed as it's a bit of a faff to fix when it goes wrong so prevention is better than cure plus it's one less thing to be concerned about.


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

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#9 Pedro

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 05:56 pm

clever fix! one for the archives of TDM ownership. :good:


Edited by Pedro, 13 January 2020 - 05:56 pm.


#10 leehenty

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 07:43 pm

very good.  a few weeks ago a chap on a Facebook TDM page manufactured an aluminium one using CNC milling machines or such loike. 

CNC a bracket like that would be expensive in alloy.


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#11 Snowbird

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 10:32 pm

I know a guy that could probably cast that thermostat housing in alloy fairly easily, would just need the face flattening, would need a housing to make the mould though.

Nothing happens quickly with him though.


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#12 wicklamulla

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Posted 13 January 2020 - 11:03 pm

CNC a bracket like that would be expensive in alloy.

 

 

i'd imagine so,  a few of us quizzed him on cost but i think he did it as a 'homer' at his work place so no costs were mentioned.


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#13 Bigbill55

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Posted 14 January 2020 - 09:12 am

It would be difficult to face a casting, because if you look closely it has a raised part where the O ring sits. It isn't completely flat. After taking a few measurements with a vernier I found that even with the raised part it only pushed the O ring just past the edge of the taper in the housing. the O ring sits about 1 mm from the bottom of the recess  in the housing. Without the raised part in the cover the O ring would sit on the edge of the tapered lead, and wouldn't reach the flat part of the recess.




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