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Stator Removal (Or Lack Of)


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#1 Pedro

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 08:24 pm

Is there a trick to removing the stator(3vd) without breaking the puller? I've tried heat, wd40 but no joy. Its now under puller tension till tomorrow. I'm pretty sure the three Allen bolts inside don't need to be removed beforehand, am I right? Ill have another go tomorrow, after that its find a garage with a mahoosive puller.Thanks.

#2 Snowbird

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 08:40 pm

With tapers often a sharp tap with a hammer while under puller pressure does the trick, I do mean "sharp tap" not "whelt the living crap out of it".


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#3 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 06 June 2020 - 09:13 pm

Took a fair amount of heat and a good few taps (naughty I know but needs must. lol) to get my mk1 rotor off.  Helps if the puller is perfectly positioned, if it's slightly off centre it won't do the job as easily.


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#4 dablik

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 07:36 am

Yes, say a prayer this morning before you attempt to pull it off, seems some peeps have more trouble than others and to answer your question, no those 3 screws hold in the back plate which will come off with the rotor, you may expect a rather large bang..


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#5 dapleb

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 08:15 am

Yes get some spare shreddies ready for the sonic boom. It will come off just don't rush/bodge it and a little heat.
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#6 Pedro

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 08:30 am

Fork me! Sounds like I'm in for an exiting Sunday. I'll try more heat and wear a crash helmet. Cheers all!

#7 leehenty

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Posted 07 June 2020 - 05:09 pm

I made my puller from a slab of 25mm steel. Even then it resisted (niner)
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#8 fixitsan

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Posted 08 June 2020 - 08:27 am

Mine broke my puller. I took it to a bike shop, and it broke their puller.

 

But the only reason I was removing it was to get a good view of the keyway so that I could line the crank up in the proper position before reassembly, and I could actually see the keyway when I removed the bolt, so I winged it and put it all back together.


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#9 MickC

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Posted 08 June 2020 - 04:35 pm

Took mine to the local car garage,or at least the wife did ,they did it straight away,no idea what they used.



#10 Pedro

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Posted 08 June 2020 - 10:10 pm

Still no joy. I've been told I can split the crankcases with the balancer shafts in place ( at least one anyway) so I'll try that and take the crank/stator to a shop. Good job the camchain is on the other side otherwise that would be a pain if you ever need to change one.

#11 Pedro

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Posted 12 June 2020 - 01:29 pm

After being told you can split the cases without removing the balancer shafts, that's what I did. Maybe my puller wasn't up to the job because one of the ears started cracking and that's with heat, tapping with hammer, swearing in three languages.  :unsure2:  :unsure2:  I'd still like to take the stator off as I want to be able to spin the crank on lathe on something to clean a big end journal which spun the shells and caused the engine to seize. At least now I know if I ever have to take my own engine apart, the first thing I'll do is get a heavy duty puller or take it to a garage and get them to take stator off.



#12 fixitsan

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Posted 12 June 2020 - 04:23 pm

After being told you can split the cases without removing the balancer shafts, that's what I did. Maybe my puller wasn't up to the job because one of the ears started cracking and that's with heat, tapping with hammer, swearing in three languages.  :unsure2:  :unsure2:  I'd still like to take the stator off as I want to be able to spin the crank on lathe on something to clean a big end journal which spun the shells and caused the engine to seize. At least now I know if I ever have to take my own engine apart, the first thing I'll do is get a heavy duty puller or take it to a garage and get them to take stator off.

Just to save possible embarrassment at a garage, the part attached to the crank is the rotor. The stator is in the side cover which goes over it. Together the stator and rotor form the alternator (which produces an alternating voltage). The rotor rotates, the stator is static, that's how I remember it anyhow


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#13 Pedro

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 07:35 pm

That's probably why I couldn't get it off!;I'm swearing at the wrong part! Thanks for the heads-up.

#14 fixitsan

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 10:45 pm

That's probably why I couldn't get it off!;I'm swearing at the wrong part! Thanks for the heads-up.

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#15 dablik

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Posted 14 June 2020 - 07:44 am

:lol: funny


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

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#16 MickC

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Posted 14 June 2020 - 12:53 pm

You will need the rotor off for when you reasemble as you wont be able to see the alignment marks for the top balancer shaft with it still in place,if I remember correctly,



#17 fixitsan

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Posted 14 June 2020 - 01:07 pm

You will need the rotor off for when you reasemble as you wont be able to see the alignment marks for the top balancer shaft with it still in place,if I remember correctly,

 

That was my fear too, but I managed to see the keyway under the bolt and calculated the positioning relative to that. I got away with it but it's not ideal


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#18 MickC

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Posted 14 June 2020 - 05:55 pm

 

That was my fear too, but I managed to see the keyway under the bolt and calculated the positioning relative to that. I got away with it but it's not ideal

Clever fecker would have worried me that I had got it wrong.




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