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Fairing Mount Repair Blocks, Anyone Interested ?


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#61 Andy25

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Posted 24 January 2019 - 08:17 pm

I've pressed the button on a cheap plastic hot stapling kit today. I have some panels on the KTM, as well as the ones ont he TDM which will benefit from this type opf repair, so I'll let you knows how it goes when I get round to it
 
 


They do make it look so easy don't they
Will be Interesting to see how you get on



#62 fixitsan

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Posted 24 January 2019 - 10:30 pm

In the past I've used thin wire nails pressed into the plastic with a hot soldering iron, so it feels like a good idea already !

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#63 wicklamulla

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Posted 25 January 2019 - 11:40 pm

In the past I've used thin wire nails pressed into the plastic with a hot soldering iron, so it feels like a good idea already !

looks great that kit,  combined with your printed blocks i reckon it cud be most excellent.


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

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#64 fixitsan

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Posted 02 February 2019 - 05:05 pm

I've been trying a couple of adhesives, fer attaching the plastics back together with.

 

Acetone (pure) hardly touches the fairing plastic (ABS type) but softens the PLA 3D printed parts a bit. I've made a slurry with ABS and acetone and OI guess it could work well enough for small repairs and for moulding small missing parts

 

This plastic repair epoxy is excellent, for gluing the fairing ABS to 3D PLA parts.  It's survived to -10C this week and difficult to crack. I find low temperature conditions are the best way to assess glue properties because many of them get too brittle in the cold and flake away -  https://www.ebay.co....872.m2749.l2649

 

And I've just received this which melts the PLA and the fairing ABS together very well, it's a tiny bottle but you don't need much. It's an organic solvent which I'm sure i've smelled before (no not behind the bike sheds at school) it could even by trichlor -  https://www.ebay.co....em=372583229830

 

Lastly my cheap Chinese hot staple/plastic welding kit has arrived and does a pretty good job. I'm a bit too busy for the next week to get torn into the fairing repairs but I'll post pics of any progress


900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile


#65 wicklamulla

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Posted 03 February 2019 - 12:48 pm

I've been trying a couple of adhesives, fer attaching the plastics back together with.

 

Acetone (pure) hardly touches the fairing plastic (ABS type) but softens the PLA 3D printed parts a bit. I've made a slurry with ABS and acetone and OI guess it could work well enough for small repairs and for moulding small missing parts

 

This plastic repair epoxy is excellent, for gluing the fairing ABS to 3D PLA parts.  It's survived to -10C this week and difficult to crack. I find low temperature conditions are the best way to assess glue properties because many of them get too brittle in the cold and flake away -  https://www.ebay.co....872.m2749.l2649

 

And I've just received this which melts the PLA and the fairing ABS together very well, it's a tiny bottle but you don't need much. It's an organic solvent which I'm sure i've smelled before (no not behind the bike sheds at school) it could even by trichlor -  https://www.ebay.co....em=372583229830

 

Lastly my cheap Chinese hot staple/plastic welding kit has arrived and does a pretty good job. I'm a bit too busy for the next week to get torn into the fairing repairs but I'll post pics of any progress

good update man.


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#66 fixitsan

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 09:33 am

Praise for 'Model X' adhesive here. While fixing the front fairing I found a small crack on one of the edges. The crack runs about an inch in length and penetrates through both sides, meaning that as you flex the fairing a gap opens up.

 

I put a drop or two of Model X on the edge of the gap and let capillary action draw it deep into the gap. After 5 minutes the two pieces were clearly stuck together. After 4 hours the repair was very strong.

 

https://flic.kr/p/2dhyUi2


I've used a combination of hot staples, PLA printed parts secured with both Model X and also a plastic epoxy, and an epoxy mesh in various places. The fairing is probably about 90% strong on the damaged side. The outer finish will sand and paint (or maybe vinyl wrap, and the inside will be unseen, but painted black anyway

 

Pics - - >  https://flic.kr/s/aHsmyeLHfV

 

Hot staples are really good I have to say, easy, strong and not many downsides, except one I can think of.....they're going to rust eventually, while they're embedded in the plastic, so I will have to come up with an idea for sealing them, either by painting, or by packing the surface with a grease


900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile


#67 muddy

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 10:47 am

This thread is great for future reference for the best methods to fix broken plastics. Since I didn't much care about my bike looking spic and span (less desirable for scrotes to want to nick and too much work anyway) I mostly bodged the plastics with duct tape, baking soda and super glue and  slap handed attempt to melt plastic to bond the cracks. As for mounts, I just made a hole and threaded in a tie. I got my rat bike, Fixitsan got his project :P


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#68 fixitsan

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 01:49 pm

This thread is great for future reference for the best methods to fix broken plastics. Since I didn't much care about my bike looking spic and span (less desirable for scrotes to want to nick and too much work anyway) I mostly bodged the plastics with duct tape, baking soda and super glue and  slap handed attempt to melt plastic to bond the cracks. As for mounts, I just made a hole and threaded in a tie. I got my rat bike, Fixitsan got his project :P

 

Too right Len, it's going to be great. I wanted to do some plastic dipping to stylise my bike a bit, but the plastics are in too good a condition, so the plan is to put my good old plastics on your old bike, and the repaired plastics, dipped, onto mine. Then I'll sell your old bike with good bodywork, after servicing the engine etc. Then I have a 125 project to rebuild.

 

By the way I'll be heading down the M74 the week beginning 18th Feb, and coming back a few days later, so that might be a good chance to swing by yours and drop off the cable :) I'll be in touch,


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#69 wicklamulla

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 01:57 pm

Chris ya cud prolly seal the mesh over using PU silicone (the stuff body shops use) as it is very high quality and not to be confused with 'domestic' silicone used in sanitary ware applications as that promotes rust!


spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#70 fixitsan

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Posted 10 February 2019 - 02:02 pm

Chris ya cud prolly seal the mesh over using PU silicone (the stuff body shops use) as it is very high quality and not to be confused with 'domestic' silicone used in sanitary ware applications as that promotes rust!

 

I've got some Yamabond but it's light grey, but would do the job i suppose. The mesh I've used is plastic mesh, with an activated epoxy coating. It's the hot staples (the zig zag bits in the picture) which are not only mild steel, but mild steel which has been heated and oxidised a bit already, so i expect to see rust within 15 minutes of it going outside !

 

I've finished with the repairs now I reckon, so I need to turn my attention towards the paint. and do the valve clearances. Other than that it's a solid bike :)


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#71 fixitsan

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Posted 23 February 2019 - 02:21 pm

Paint applied, after a bit of filler/primer to hide the various dings and scratches. Once dried I'll put a couple layers of lacquer on to seal it.

 

The lower half of the front fairing is getting a coat of bumper paint, which has just the right texture and satin finish to match the original finish

 

[/url]painted by Chris Barron, on Flickr">http://40221492073_d64360b7f1_k.jpgpainted by Chris Barron, on Flickr


Edited by fixitsan, 23 February 2019 - 02:23 pm.

900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile



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