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Rear Wheel Noise


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#1 Quadsey

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Posted 20 July 2020 - 01:47 pm

I've noticed a grinding type noise coming from the rear wheel. The noise is only present when I'm going really slow or you turn the wheel by hand when it's up on the centre stand. The noise isn't constant either, as i rotate the wheel it's happening periodically on a full turn and never consistently at one point of the rotation.

Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.


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#2 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 20 July 2020 - 02:36 pm

Sounds like bearings.  Could be the sprocket carrier bearing, they sometimes rotate inside the carrier.  Deffo sounds like a rear wheel off inspection is needed.


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#3 drewpy

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Posted 20 July 2020 - 03:17 pm

yes, bearings can make a "cracking" sound too 


Edited by drewpy, 20 July 2020 - 03:17 pm.

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#4 Matlock

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Posted 20 July 2020 - 07:32 pm

+1 for sprocket carrier bearing. Or possibly chain/sprockets too; if the noise is not matching wheel rotation, is it matching chain rotation?


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#5 Quadsey

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Posted 20 July 2020 - 07:40 pm

+1 for sprocket carrier bearing. Or possibly chain/sprockets too; if the noise is not matching wheel rotation, is it matching chain rotation?Wouldn't have thought to check the chain rotation. Think the wheel will be coming off for an inspection either way. Thanks for the suggestions, always nice to have a lead to look into.


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#6 Quadsey

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Posted 24 July 2020 - 01:37 pm

Anyone know roughly how much I'm looking to get bearings done? Wheels bearings and sprocket carrier bearing. A breakdown rather then an over all price if possible. TIA


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#7 dablik

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Posted 24 July 2020 - 06:29 pm

Plenty on ebay, i've used Koyo bearings.


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#8 Snowbird

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Posted 24 July 2020 - 06:36 pm

Once the bearings are out they will be a lot cheaper from a local bearing supplier, most have a standard number on them, I'm always wary of cheap ebay bearings as there are a lot of fakes about with soft balls marked up as koyo/nsk and the like.


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#9 dapleb

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Posted 24 July 2020 - 06:47 pm

Bearing sizes are in knowledgebase.

Koyo are OEM fitment for head bearing and prolly others.
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#10 Quadsey

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Posted 24 July 2020 - 07:31 pm

Am i right in saying that there's a specific tool for removing them? Is this a weekend/youtube mechanic level job?


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#11 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 24 July 2020 - 07:48 pm

No specific tool required, just a drift (maybe a long robust screwdriver) to knock the old bearings out.  Depending on yer skills and success in drifting them out, prolly half a days job at most.

There is a tube that runs inbetween the wheel bearings on the left and on the right, you might need to move this slightly so you can get the drift on the edge of the bearing.


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#12 drewpy

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Posted 24 July 2020 - 08:07 pm

i weld on a washer to the inner bering face and drift out right through the middle.

 

the heat loosens it and saves trying to drift the bearing out square tapping all around the circumference


"As I Lay Rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I skid and begin to slide, please dear god protect my ride"

Mods; Oil pressure switch, neoprene rear inner mudguard, scottoiler, highway pegs,  fenda extenda, 1999 carbs and airbox, Kais suspension setup, later clutch springs, LED lamps, Metmachex swingarm, Hagon Shock, Oxford heated grips, 4 way fused accessory Bus, 17" 3CV front wheel, Michellin R6 tyres, GPS speedo, 5' ignition advance.


#13 steve27bha

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Posted 24 July 2020 - 09:09 pm

If you have not done this or a similar job before you need to be aware of a few things.

 

1. There are some hefty forces involved. e.g. the rear axle nut torque is 150Nm

2. Care is needed to get the rear disc back between the pads

3. Do NOT mix up the three collars spacing the wheel and carrier

4. Apply force only to the outer race when fitting the new bearings

5. Check a parts fiche or the shop manual for what goes where

 - and if you have an ABS model take care undoing the rear sensor from the hub cover.

 

A YouTube demo seems a good idea. DelBoy does good ones and here is his for the rear bearings:-

That uses hammer and drift; he has another using a fancy puller on his 'Busa project.

 

Good luck.


Edited by steve27bha, 24 July 2020 - 09:12 pm.

TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     gallery_179098_391_770.jpg sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg gallery_179098_391_253.jpg gallery_179098_391_82.jpg gallery_179098_391_725.gif gallery_179098_391_797.jpg gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg gallery_179098_391_501.jpg gallery_179098_391_316.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg gallery_179098_391_106.jpggallery_179098_391_2170.jpg gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg

 

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#14 dablik

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Posted 25 July 2020 - 12:54 pm

The easiest method for me and the cheapest i have found is an M12 Anchor bolt, tighten it in situ then drift it out from the other side, takes seconds.


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 


#15 leehenty

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Posted 25 July 2020 - 05:42 pm

helps to warm up the housings with a hot air gun too. and drop new bearings in freezer


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#16 Matlock

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Posted 25 July 2020 - 06:27 pm

Lots of good tips above, here's one of my own: You can pick up blind bearing puller kits of ebay for less than £40 they make life so much easier and make you look far more professional than using a drift :P .


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#17 dablik

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Posted 25 July 2020 - 07:52 pm

Lots of good tips above, here's one of my own: You can pick up blind bearing puller kits of ebay for less than £40 they make life so much easier and make you look far more professional than using a drift :P .

Haha i actually have one but the Anchor bolt wins hands down :P :P


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 


#18 Quadsey

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Posted 27 July 2020 - 04:04 pm

ok, haven't taken them out yet (want to get the replacements first), there's an engineering company beside me that do all types of bearings. Silly question but are bearings, bearings? Or are there motorcycle specific ones?

 

Does anyone have the size or model number of the bearings for an '06 TDM 900?


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#19 Snowbird

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Posted 27 July 2020 - 05:41 pm

Bearings are bearings, the type is all covered by the part number, the 4 numbers give size and any letters after should give seal type if any fitted.


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#20 dapleb

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Posted 27 July 2020 - 05:43 pm

Does anyone have the size or model number of the bearings for an '06 TDM 900?


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