11 replies to this topic

[TKH]

Has anyone any experience removing the 9'er ignition barrel from the top yolk?

 

I want to see if I can salvage/repair the ignition barrel after some scrotes tried to get my bike going.

It looks like the whole barrel is held in by two hardened drift bars. I've tried drilling out which is when I found out that they are hardened. My thoughts are I'll have to order cobalt or similar drill bits I assume to try and cut out. Then tap out the hols and replace with bolts. All the fixings appear to be drift bars instead of bolts, apart from 2 small bolts which I've already removed.

 

Even removing the first two drifts I've no idea yet how to get the actual barrel for the key out. 

Any help as always gratefully received.

 

 

 

[Snowbird]

Are they not held in with sheer bolts where the head snaps off when they are done up?

[Studley Ramrod]

The 850 has shear bolts, they were quite soft on my mk1 and easy to drill the heads off.  Once the heads are off you need to remove the top yoke then simply lift the barrel off.  The remaining part of the shear bolt is easily removed from the barrel, think I unscrewed mine by hand.

[TKH]

Thee bolt "heads" are underneath. I tried cutting away enough to get a wrench on the bolt but it's in pretty tight. I'll have another go at trying to unscrew.

[TKH]

OK, I've blunted 2 cobalt drill bits trying to drill this thing out. Running them fairly slow an keeping the drill bit cool and lubricated. Before I carry on, I assume I can replace the barrel and plastic shroud (assume linked to immobiliser?) and replace with another barrel and shroud along with the black and red keys from the new set? Assume I don't need to replace any the other immobiliser parts?

[steve27bha]

Excuse me if I'm teaching grandmother but...

 

Have you seen this fiche showing the bits around the switch? https://www.bike-par...2971/B44/0/7416

That suggests to me that there are two security bots #41 for the switch and two more (plain?) #35 holding on the YISS sensor ring #34 onto the switch and sandwiched below the top yoke.

 

Can you cut / Dremel thru' the ears of the switch that provide the holes for the security bolts, remove the switch and ring so giving more to grip to undo? Without knowing the shape of the underside of the top yoke I may be suggesting summat completely impossible. I assume you have removed the top yoke from the bike.

 

The immobiliser ring #34 may be "tied" to the ECU #33 as a pair - dunno, but it is shown as a separate part suggesting not - and you may be able to cannabalise the top yoke and in effect cut that off the switch and release the ring, replacing both the top yoke and the switch, reusing the ring.

 

You will have to somehow get your new ignition switch adjusted to accept the current key so its chip code still matches the ECU, as I understand it. Or is the chip in a new key re-programmable? You have got the red-head key I hope. That is tied to the ECU as the basis of the security system.

 

Bl**dy  scrotes. Best wishes.

Edited by steve27bha, 03 December 2019 - 03:34 pm.

[Studley Ramrod]

Have you removed the top yoke to check if the barrel can be removed ?

[steve27bha]

This eBay item's third pic suggests that cutting the switch base or cannibalising the top yoke is possible, and replacing it not expensive.

 

https://www.ebay.co....O8AAOSwZepdcSRk

 

That one has its ignition switch removed, and it's older than yours. Have you tried a heat gun on the yoke? What about one of those special sockets that have left-hand thread internal splines to cut into the bolt?

Edited by steve27bha, 03 December 2019 - 05:27 pm.

[TKH]

Have you removed the top yoke to check if the barrel can be removed ?

 

Yes Studders, got the whole front end stripped. I've seen piccies of stripped yolks and they look like they're threaded but I can't but the bolts on mine, even with a bit of heat on the case. Problem is what I think is the immobiliser bit is plastic.

Edited by TKH, 04 December 2019 - 05:15 pm.

[Snowbird]

Can you get a nut welded over the end of the shear bolt? Best done with tig as you can go down the thread of the nut with the electrode.

[TKH]

This eBay item's third pic suggests that cutting the switch base or cannibalising the top yoke is possible, and replacing it not expensive.

 

https://www.ebay.co....O8AAOSwZepdcSRk

 

That one has its ignition switch removed, and it's older than yours. Have you tried a heat gun on the yoke? What about one of those special sockets that have left-hand thread internal splines to cut into the bolt?

 

 

Thanks Steve, that looks different to some others I've seen as it appears not to have threads which would suggest it has studs driftted in. Either that or they've drilled the threads out!

I'll have a look for the socket.

Can you get a nut welded over the end of the shear bolt? Best done with tig as you can go down the thread of the nut with the electrode.

 

Thats a thought. I've got arc but not tig or mig. I'll give it a go.

[Snowbird]

I doubt arc would be delicate enough but with the yoke off you should be able to take the whole lot to an engineering shop, I'd have a go but I'm miles away.