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Fairing Mount Repair Blocks, Anyone Interested ?


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#1 fixitsan

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Posted 01 January 2019 - 02:42 pm

I'm chipping away at the repairs to Muddy's old front fairing. A couple of the mounting screw/nut blocks are damaged (also one has broken on my first 900.)

 

The one I'm currently working on is the front upper side panel mounting, the one with the largest screw fitted at the front of the side panels, near the top edge

 

It's going to take some gap filling cement to fit it, but if anyone wants to try one and has a broken mount let me know and while I'm printing some for myself I'll make the extras.  So if you're  upper front side panel bolt mount (it's on the lower edge of the side of the front fairing, and slips below the upper edge of the side panel ) is broken I might have a simple solution.

 

Pics to follow soon....each one worth a 1000 clearer words !


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#2 ramo

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Posted 01 January 2019 - 03:37 pm

nice one  :good:



#3 madmopedracer

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Posted 01 January 2019 - 04:53 pm

ill be interested



#4 wicklamulla

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 12:39 pm

very interesting,  i know nothing about 3D printing so i'm interested to see yer results.


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#5 fixitsan

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 01:49 pm

very interesting,  i know nothing about 3D printing so i'm interested to see yer results.

 

 

You know that thing about pride before a fall...

 

I made a couple of small tweaks to the model and started to print it out, and it failed, a dozen times.  I'm working on it now, trying to get a good print. Fingers crossed. !


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#6 fixitsan

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 02:33 pm

I think I've got it back under control.

 

Here's a couple of pics -> https://www.flickr.c...eposted-public/

 

First one is of an undamaged screw retaining clip, and the other 2 are of the block I've printed. Once drilled through it should take a large pan headed self tapper


Edited by fixitsan, 02 January 2019 - 02:35 pm.

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#7 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 04:24 pm

45656971335_7b48469991_z.jpg


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#8 sando

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 05:16 pm

i need almost every faring fixing point reparing

#9 fixitsan

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 06:56 pm

45656971335_7b48469991_z.jpg

 

 

Thanks for that Studley :)

 

I've changed the design today to something which isn't 'handed'. more care will be required when it comes to glue, and there's scope to drill a little hole through both the bracket and the fairing to insert and glue a pin, for extra security. Pics to follow

 

I've also made a filling piece to repair the middle inner cowl mounting point, the one at the middle angled section, level with the instruments.

 

I also need to make one to repair a broken headlamp bracket with.


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#10 muddy

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 07:50 pm

i need almost every faring fixing point reparing

First thing I thought was I bet there'll be a few lining up for these. Great job Fixitsan. This the beauty of single make loyalists, you get the perks of their experience and inventiveness. 


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#11 fixitsan

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 10:42 pm

First thing I thought was I bet there'll be a few lining up for these. Great job Fixitsan. This the beauty of single make loyalists, you get the perks of their experience and inventiveness. 

 

Very true Len :)

 

Vers2 is looking good and the printer is working fine again. Phew :)

 

It'll probably be a while before I've attended to them all and can offer any to other people, but I'm on my way !


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#12 steve27bha

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 11:01 am

I know I have one or two damaged and bodged mount points but don't recall exactly which ones, on a 9er.

 

I've lost track of which model you are fixing up, so can you define as far as possible which TDM models it would be suitable for?

 

I note you refer to drilling for a self-tapper. Is the block too thick to fit a spire washer/clip?

 

I'll know which points of mine are damaged when I strip down for the annual service soon.

 

Good work, Chris.


TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     gallery_179098_391_770.jpg sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg gallery_179098_391_253.jpg gallery_179098_391_82.jpg gallery_179098_391_725.gif gallery_179098_391_797.jpg gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg gallery_179098_391_501.jpg gallery_179098_391_316.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg gallery_179098_391_106.jpggallery_179098_391_2170.jpg gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg

 

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#13 TDMick

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 02:14 pm

Everyone will be interested.  :rotflmmfao:


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#14 fixitsan

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 03:03 pm

[/url]example2 by Chris Barron, on Flickr">http://45671812575_77d7f7aab9_b.jpgexample2 by Chris Barron, on Flickr

 

 

 

This is the left side lower headlight mounting point


Edited by fixitsan, 03 January 2019 - 03:04 pm.

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#15 fixitsan

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 03:11 pm

I know I have one or two damaged and bodged mount points but don't recall exactly which ones, on a 9er.

 

I've lost track of which model you are fixing up, so can you define as far as possible which TDM models it would be suitable for?

 

I note you refer to drilling for a self-tapper. Is the block too thick to fit a spire washer/clip?

 

I'll know which points of mine are damaged when I strip down for the annual service soon.

 

Good work, Chris.

 

 

Hi Steve, I'm working on a TDM900, 2004 plate

 

I don't know about fitting a spring clip, it would require some careful editing (which isn't impossible) but the spire clip mounting plate would be very thin (in 3D printing terms)  I'm using a PLA filament which is very light and pretty strong, doesn't soften too much with heat, but the components are built up by laying 0.4mm diameter filaments on top of one another, layer adhesion is not perfect, although in many cases pieces produced this way can have a completely smooth appearance. A little bit of tweaking of the extruder temperature can be made to maximise adhesion, but ultimately the failure mode is more often than not separation of filaments from neighbouring filaments.  Some people brush them with good ol' M.E.K.  .... which melts the outer layers together and produces a smooth glossy finish.

 

As I'm focusing on speed rather than final apprearance I prefer for now to make pieces which are robust and well fitting. Self tappers aren't ideal compared to standard fittings,  but they get the job done don't they :)


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#16 steve27bha

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Posted 03 January 2019 - 10:59 pm

OK Chris. Many thanks for the reply. I fully understand the techy problems you discuss.

 

Here's a couple of other Qs:-

 

1. What do you use to glue the new printed bit to the existing plastic?

 

2. What is M E K ? (later: I googled and got Methyl Ethyl Ketone )

 

I have a liquid to "weld" plastic together - sold for the Airfix etc. model kit market - that does a good job provided the right type of plastic is in use. I believe the fluid may be acetone.


TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with     gallery_179098_391_770.jpg sml_gallery_179098_391_1145.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1206.jpg gallery_179098_391_253.jpg gallery_179098_391_82.jpg gallery_179098_391_725.gif gallery_179098_391_797.jpg gallery_179098_391_1396.jpg gallery_179098_391_501.jpg gallery_179098_391_316.jpg  gallery_179098_391_1768.jpg gallery_179098_391_106.jpggallery_179098_391_2170.jpg gallery_179098_391_1373.jpg

 

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#17 fixitsan

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 12:38 am

OK Chris. Many thanks for the reply. I fully understand the techy problems you discuss.
 
Here's a couple of other Qs:-
 
1. What do you use to glue the new printed bit to the existing plastic?
 
2. What is M E K ? (later: I googled and got Methyl Ethyl Ketone )
 
I have a liquid to "weld" plastic together - sold for the Airfix etc. model kit market - that does a good job provided the right type of plastic is in use. I believe the fluid may be acetone.



Steve, google is correct. MEK is forbidden in a lot of industries where it once reigned supreme as an excellent cleaning fluid and solvent. It melts a lot of plastics....handle with care etc...

The adhesive you mention sounds interesting. .. I was testing some plastic pipe jointing solvent ( floplas ?) And it worked okay with ABS and PLA. I also have a building adhesive used for gluing cement boards to wooden battens which is incredibly strong.

In the past I've used heat sometimes to melt two plastics together. ...bit hit and miss, maybe it's needing practice.


Edited by fixitsan, 04 January 2019 - 08:31 am.

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#18 fixitsan

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 09:41 am

If anyone has a particularly problematic broken fastener, while I'm in the groove with these pieces post a picture for me and I'll let you know if there is anything I can do.


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#19 PICARD

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 09:59 am

I'm watching this thread interest fixit. It's one of those things we hope to never need, at least re fairing!
Ive had some success with "plastic welding" in the past for broken 900 headlight brackets.
Keep up the good work with this, the pessimist in me wants to ask you to make me a full set for when I need them!!
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#20 fixitsan

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Posted 04 January 2019 - 11:24 am

I'm watching this thread interest fixit. It's one of those things we hope to never need, at least re fairing!
Ive had some success with "plastic welding" in the past for broken 900 headlight brackets.
Keep up the good work with this, the pessimist in me wants to ask you to make me a full set for when I need them!!

 

 

Thanks very much :)

 

i made 2 different ones for the headlight yesterday because 3 of the 4 headlight mounting brackets are broken due to accident damage.  the low quality models looked good so I'm about to print them in high quality/density.

 

It's quite therapeutic, and I get regular exercise because the printer is upstairs !


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