278 replies to this topic

[frits44]

Btw I had some work on the air box cover to remove the whole flap actuator mechanism at the same time I disabled the flap, a long long time ago !

The result is a little bit more intake noise but only when fully opening the throttle bodies at low rpm.

And the engine is much more usable at low rpm.

 

JBX thanks for your answer,

 

I did the mod too removed everything out of the cover of the air box 

 

And I did place a new car air filter  from NIPPARTS number J1321029 it fits perfect and not noisy like K&N filters are.

 

But I looked at the cover of the air box and at the inlet too the is too much resistance for the air too flow free

 

Thats why I am trying to this modification too give the filter more space insite the air box cover to make the airflow better.

 

This problem with the TDM 900 jerkiness is now going on for almost 15 years now. 2001 till 2016

 

Someone has too solve this problem. There is someone who knows  how too fix it.

 

Thats the reason too, we all talk and write but we do not do things or try things 

 

I am a man who does things and try things thats the way too find out and try too solve problems.

 

I  have my bike now for 7 months now and I want too help too solve these problems and for FREE so that every body

can enjoy his TDM 900.

 

Again the question, Is it possible that the cover of the air box creates air turbulence and maybe vacuum insite ????

 

I just can say DO THINGS AND TRY IT OUT.

 

 

I mean it well and it is free too do 

 

Many thanks for your site JBX, a read it a lot too know my bike.

 

Greetings, Frits from Holland

[fixitsan]

 

This is called the AIS.

This is an exhaust anti-pollution system which works only when the engine is idling or until the coolant temperature is below the standard working temperature.

It does not interfere with the engine max power or torque, removing it is not really useful.

Many R1/R6 riders remove it under the false belief it will increase max power. it actually only allow some weight gain.

 

Hi JBX. I remember you making the same comment to me after i originally made the modification, and you quoted text from a sales document as evidence.

 

As I recall it  I took measurements at normal working temp, with a voltmeter across the solenoid and noted that it actuated.

 

What i think i should do is connect an LED across the solenoid and ride the bike to detect solenoid actuation under working conditions. I just think that sales brochure information can be ambiguous....even Wikipedia says the same though  https://en.wikipedia...y_air_injection

 

I had a 1970's Kawasaki LTD, US import, which had the same system, but without a solenoid, so the system was full time operational.

 

Unless I check it under normal working conditions I'll never know for sure, but I remember when I did the tests before the engine was quite warm already. The next time I lift the tank off I'll hook up an LED and then take it for a ride.  I didn't get a chance to remove the clamp sealing the system this weekend because I was busy with other things, so that's added to the list of things to do !

 

 

Advancing the ignition timing  is still the best mod I've done, I don't think I felt much difference from the airbox flap mod, but left it modified anyway.

[fixitsan]

 

Btw I had some work on the air box cover to remove the whole flap actuator mechanism at the same time I disabled the flap, a long long time ago !

The result is a little bit more intake noise but only when fully opening the throttle bodies at low rpm.

And the engine is much more usable at low rpm.

 

JBX thanks for your answer,

 

I did the mod too removed everything out of the cover of the air box 

 

And I did place a new car air filter  from NIPPARTS number J1321029 it fits perfect and not noisy like K&N filters are.

 

But I looked at the cover of the air box and at the inlet too the is too much resistance for the air too flow free

 

Thats why I am trying to this modification too give the filter more space insite the air box cover to make the airflow better.

 

This problem with the TDM 900 jerkiness is now going on for almost 15 years now. 2001 till 2016

 

Someone has too solve this problem. There is someone who knows  how too fix it.

 

Thats the reason too, we all talk and write but we do not do things or try things 

 

I am a man who does things and try things thats the way too find out and try too solve problems.

 

I  have my bike now for 7 months now and I want too help too solve these problems and for FREE so that every body

can enjoy his TDM 900.

 

Again the question, Is it possible that the cover of the air box creates air turbulence and maybe vacuum insite ????

 

I just can say DO THINGS AND TRY IT OUT.

 

 

I mean it well and it is free too do 

 

Many thanks for your site JBX, a read it a lot too know my bike.

 

Greetings, Frits from Holland

 

 

 

Frits, one of the most important components in the airbox is the snorkel.  It's also called the velocity stack https://en.wikipedia.../Velocity_stack

 

I think that we run with uneven length snorkels, I think if you want best running then they should both be the same size...but then again I also think that if they caused too much of a problem then Yamaha would have picked up on it.

[frits44]

Fixitsan,

 

My english is bad but I try.

 

I did not make the inlet size bigger on the out site 

 

The out site of the air inlet is still the same  in width and height in total

 

I did change what in is in site, not two holes for air inlet but just one hole for air inlet ( better airflow )

 

I did a test ride this morning,

 

It works great,

 

I did test ride in slow city traffic and I can now drive with 30 km. in second gear without problems or jerkiness. no clutch or footbrake

 

I is now very steady  in every gear from low RPM till high rpm.I did try from 1500rpm and up, easy on the throttle but it works

 

The engine does not like very low rpm but he can do it no problem. It is a big two cylinder 900cc engine

 

 

From midrange too high RPM it is faster in every gear, goes very easy through  the red sone in rpm 

 

If you accelerate  there is a little bit more noise from the filter  but not much.

 

I am very glad I did this.

 

This is my setup for now:

 

Exhaust mod. removed the kat. and bigger end pipe 22mm to 30mm. € 100,00

 

CO setting 25/ 25

 

Air box mod 1,2, 3 did it all Thanks too JBX site.

 

Air sensor mod with a 6 K ohm resistance between the brown white wire € 0,25

 

Air filter from Nipparts J 1321029 fits perfect € 15,00

 

Iridium spark plugs. € 38,00

 

My fuel consumption is before the last mod. hard drive 1 liter on 19 km,very slow drive 1 liter on 24,8

 

I will test my CO and my AFR  

 

Again I am very glad now with this result.

 

I knew that it can be done it is a fine machine with a very strong engine.

 

I thank every body for the information and I hope that you all will use it.

 

Greetins, Frits from holland

[fixitsan]

Your English is good enough Frits

 

The velocity stacks i mentioned are shown in the images on the following page

http://advrider.com/...upgrade.603151/

 

 

The two rubber snorkels, with rounded ends, in theory at least, should be the same length for optimum performance. but perhaps the difference we have on the TDM is not only a compromise, but maybe also it makes not too much of a difference ?

[arthurbikemad]

AIS, PAIR, SAS, Fresh air whatever you like to call it plays no part in AFR as said as it enters the system after the combustion stage, i.e after the exhaust valve, it does how ever affect lambda readings or probe values when mapping or sampling the exhaust gasses, in my case I disabled it so when I mapped the bike it was not an issue, my map is for both cylinders and not individual as I could not be asses to weld in two sample points on the headers, we did however slide a probe down the system to get an idea, mine was in about 10% of each other from what we could guess, however the readings were pinch of salt as not sure where we were with the probe.

 

The only real way to sort fueling and throttle response imo is fit a PC3 and map the bike. Extra cost but will sort out all the mystery and give you a smooth response across the range.

 

However any mods can move the bike in the right direction.

Edited by arthurbikemad, 09 May 2016 - 12:51 pm.

[frits44]

Here is my proof too all of you that my bike runs very good in very low RPM, no jerkiness no nothing 

 

I am driving in second gear with my Iphone in my left hand to make this video.

 

I am very glad with my modifications and with my bike that runs very smooth and steady  in every gear.

 

I hope you enjoy the video.

 

Greetings, Frits from Holland

 

[frits44]

Fixitsan,

 

I did see your modification on the net.

 

It is also a very nice job you did.

 

I also hope that it works good too, because thats what we do too improve our bikes that it runs very fine

 

and we all can enjoy the ride on our TDM 900. IT IS A GREAT MACHINE WITH A VERY STRONG ENGINE.

 

Greetings, Frits from Holland

[Kelpie]

Am I right in thinking the later models are different to the earlier ones? My 2011 is markedly smoother than both my 03's. I have very few issues with the 2011 but perhaps I'm used to the vagaries after 8 years as a TDMer.

[fixitsan]

AIS, PAIR, SAS, Fresh air whatever you like to call it plays no part in AFR as said as it enters the system after the combustion stage, i.e after the exhaust valve, it does how ever affect lambda readings or probe values when mapping or sampling the exhaust gasses, in my case I disabled it so when I mapped the bike it was not an issue, my map is for both cylinders and not individual as I could not be asses to weld in two sample points on the headers, we did however slide a probe down the system to get an idea, mine was in about 10% of each other from what we could guess, however the readings were pinch of salt as not sure where we were with the probe.

 

The only real way to sort fueling and throttle response imo is fit a PC3 and map the bike. Extra cost but will sort out all the mystery and give you a smooth response across the range.

 

However any mods can move the bike in the right direction.

 

I'm aware of the above Arthur...my concern was that AIS air is taken from the filtered side of the airbox, the same side that the throttle bodies take their air from. The solenoid doesn't act smoothly, it pulses on and off, and in turn that causes a momentary reduction of pressure in the airbox, which may or may not be seen by the intake pressure sensor attached to the throttle body.

 

I doubt it's a huge difference, and with a crankcase breather in there too it probably doesn't,  but with very easy breathing exhausts I prefer the system to be off, because with it off there is a definite reduction in exhaust popping on overrun.

Here is my proof too all of you that my bike runs very good in very low RPM, no jerkiness no nothing 

 

I am driving in second gear with my Iphone in my left hand to make this video.

 

I am very glad with my modifications and with my bike that runs very smooth and steady  in every gear.

 

I hope you enjoy the video.

 

Greetings, Frits from Holland

 

 

 

Mine too frits....  (how well does yours accelerate from 1800rpm ? )

 

Edited by fixitsan, 09 May 2016 - 03:38 pm.

[frits44]

Fixitsan,

 

My acceleration is very good in every gear from very low RPM till high RPM. it runs trough the red limit sone

 

My bike runs on top speed  6 gear 235km at  8300 RPM

 

And that before I did the mod with the cover of the air box

 

But I will measure my CO and my AFR when I have time for it.

 

Your bike runs great too.

 

Greetings, Frits from Holland

[JBX]

 

Hi JBX. I remember you making the same comment to me after i originally made the modification, and you quoted text from a sales document as evidence.

 

As I recall it  I took measurements at normal working temp, with a voltmeter across the solenoid and noted that it actuated.

 

What i think i should do is connect an LED across the solenoid and ride the bike to detect solenoid actuation under working conditions. I just think that sales brochure information can be ambiguous....even Wikipedia says the same though  https://en.wikipedia...y_air_injection

 

I had a 1970's Kawasaki LTD, US import, which had the same system, but without a solenoid, so the system was full time operational.

 

Unless I check it under normal working conditions I'll never know for sure, but I remember when I did the tests before the engine was quite warm already. The next time I lift the tank off I'll hook up an LED and then take it for a ride.  I didn't get a chance to remove the clamp sealing the system this weekend because I was busy with other things, so that's added to the list of things to do !

 

 

Advancing the ignition timing  is still the best mod I've done, I don't think I felt much difference from the airbox flap mod, but left it modified anyway.

 

Yes I remember that point too, except the quote was not from a sales document, it was from the workshop manual - normally not to be read by the customer but only by professional mechanics. This is a very different point of view, a sales document is often imprecise about the real characteristics, this is not the case with workshop manuals.

 

While there is not reason to doubt about a workshop manual, I'll have some leds wired in to see how it all work - I like to play with leds...

[JBX]

 

 

Frits, one of the most important components in the airbox is the snorkel.  It's also called the velocity stack https://en.wikipedia.../Velocity_stack

 

I think that we run with uneven length snorkels, I think if you want best running then they should both be the same size...but then again I also think that if they caused too much of a problem then Yamaha would have picked up on it.

 

The reason why the two intake pipes have different length is mainly to reduce the influence of one pipe on the other one - aka pressure waves coupling.

With equal length pipes the pressure waves from one pipe will disturb (not quite sure about my vocabulary) the other one.

This may lead to unwanted stationary waves at a precise rpm.

[JBX]

AIS, PAIR, SAS, Fresh air whatever you like to call it plays no part in AFR as said as it enters the system after the combustion stage, i.e after the exhaust valve, it does how ever affect lambda readings or probe values when mapping or sampling the exhaust gasses, in my case I disabled it so when I mapped the bike it was not an issue, my map is for both cylinders and not individual as I could not be asses to weld in two sample points on the headers, we did however slide a probe down the system to get an idea, mine was in about 10% of each other from what we could guess, however the readings were pinch of salt as not sure where we were with the probe.

 

The only real way to sort fueling and throttle response imo is fit a PC3 and map the bike. Extra cost but will sort out all the mystery and give you a smooth response across the range.

 

However any mods can move the bike in the right direction.

 

I really don't worry about a system that works only at idle or when the engine is not yet at the right temperature.

 

The engine jerkiness is very easy to solve with the oem exhausts, at no cost.

With after-market exhausts this is a very different story and it may require a pc to solve it in the worst cases.

[arthurbikemad]

Sorry Fixit,  I know you know, just thought of others in regards to mapping/sampling etc, same as JBX is saying and quite right Fixit given that airbox design is a complex science given that airflow is hard to calculate/simulate/predict the possibilities of disrupted airflow/turbulation are highly possible in that so much has to be covered in the restricted area under the TDMs fuel tank. (Blimey that was hard to say.lol)

[JBX]

Am I right in thinking the later models are different to the earlier ones? My 2011 is markedly smoother than both my 03's. I have very few issues with the 2011 but perhaps I'm used to the vagaries after 8 years as a TDMer.

 

The ECU mapping was modified from 2007+ to be EURO3 compliant - and to work with the new exhausts.

[fixitsan]

 

Yes I remember that point too, except the quote was not from a sales document, it was from the workshop manual - normally not to be read by the customer but only by professional mechanics. This is a very different point of view, a sales document is often imprecise about the real characteristics, this is not the case with workshop manuals.

 

While there is not reason to doubt about a workshop manual, I'll have some leds wired in to see how it all work - I like to play with leds...

 

 

I have yet to see the perfect service manual...after 30 years of servicing electromechanical equipment and vehicles, I've learned that no manual is beyond correction !

[TDrummer]

I don't have this problem with my carb'd '92 but a great discussion nonetheless.

Glad it got sorted out.

[fixitsan]

 

The reason why the two intake pipes have different length is mainly to reduce the influence of one pipe on the other one - aka pressure waves coupling.

With equal length pipes the pressure waves from one pipe will disturb (not quite sure about my vocabulary) the other one.

This may lead to unwanted stationary waves at a precise rpm.

 

I knew there would be an official reason. But peeps who modify it say it gives beneficial results http://advrider.com/.../#post-24054874

Sorry Fixit,  I know you know, just thought of others in regards to mapping/sampling etc, same as JBX is saying and quite right Fixit given that airbox design is a complex science given that airflow is hard to calculate/simulate/predict the possibilities of disrupted airflow/turbulation are highly possible in that so much has to be covered in the restricted area under the TDMs fuel tank. (Blimey that was hard to say.lol)

 

 

No bother ! 

[JBX]

 

I knew there would be an official reason. But peeps who modify it say it gives beneficial results http://advrider.com/.../#post-24054874

 

I already saw this mod but afair it was on an older post than 2014... or maybe I have some memory troubles !

 

With this mod things are different because each intake pipe has its own air filter.

Each air filter element is acting as a pressure wave damper and in this case there is no coupling between both pipes - or this is really bad luck !

Edited by JBX, 09 May 2016 - 08:40 pm.