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How do you change the front fork oil?


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#21 mr grumpy 2

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 09:20 am

was going to do this, but as i need a new front tyre and the local mechanic will do the fork oil and new tyre (gone back to pilot roads) for £120.

got the bike booked in.

#22 wicklamulla

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 01:41 pm

QUOTE(mr grumpy 2 @ Sat 10th Jun 2006, 10:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
was going to do this, but as i need a new front tyre and the local mechanic will do the fork oil and new tyre (gone back to pilot roads) for £120.

got the bike booked in.



that 120 quids fer the tyres alone or does it include changing the fork oil too ???

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

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#23 mr grumpy 2

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 09:52 am

QUOTE(mr grumpy 2 @ Sat 10th Jun 2006, 09:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
was going to do this, but as i need a new front tyre and the local mechanic will do the fork oil and new tyre (gone back to pilot roads) for £120.

got the bike booked in.




guess it was both tyre and forks, ride in / ride out service.

think the tyre alone is £80, so £40 for tyre fitting, fork oil and labour.

#24 wicklamulla

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 02:04 pm

QUOTE(mr grumpy 2 @ Sun 11th Jun 2006, 10:37 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
guess it was both tyre and forks, ride in / ride out service.

think the tyre alone is £80, so £40 for tyre fitting, fork oil and labour.



sounds like a good price to me.

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#25 mr grumpy 2

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 07:25 pm

QUOTE(wicklamulla @ Sun 11th Jun 2006, 01:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
sounds like a good price to me.


so how do you rate going from the 10W to 15W oil ???????

many say its best change.

#26 wicklamulla

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Posted 11 June 2006 - 07:46 pm

QUOTE(mr grumpy 2 @ Sun 11th Jun 2006, 08:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
so how do you rate going from the 10W to 15W oil ???????

many say its best change.



i used 15wt oil when i fitted racetech springs/spacers and it makes a difference right enuf. some peeps have reverted to 10wt after trying 15wt cos twas too harsh fer em. try and see.

spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.

I loike tay and hang sangwiches !

www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk

http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6



http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php

post-1-1150550733.gifpost-1-1150550726.gifpost-1-1150559830.gif


#27 Bjørge

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 11:23 pm

Now there's another way of changing fork oil on Mk1: Unscrew the little screws at the bottom of fork leg and simply drain them - like you did on bikes in the old days...
...then remove the cap and fill whatever amount of oil you need.

Edited by Bjørge, 22 May 2009 - 11:24 pm.

Bjørge

#28 TenaciousTdM

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 08:10 pm

QUOTE(tdm850rider @ Sat 27th May 2006, 12:43 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Oh for Pete's sake... it's really simple.

Just hold the bike upside down and shake it!

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#29 Chappie49r

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Posted 15 October 2015 - 10:15 am

Can somebody give me an indication as to front fork oil capacity for a 2008 TDM. I see 545 cc and 127 mm given for the 2004 on. Does this apply for the 2008 model also.

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#30 chrisr

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Posted 15 October 2015 - 02:27 pm

Most just put half a litre in each leg
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#31 celticbiker

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Posted 15 October 2015 - 06:33 pm

If you are replacing you will never get it all out so 500 ml will be enough in each leg.
From a strip and rebuild you'll need the extra 45ml



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#32 Chappie49r

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Posted 15 October 2015 - 06:53 pm

Thanks for the advice guys, should be able to get the job completed in time to see the ALL BLACKS dick the FROGS !!!
CHAPPIE.

#33 uney9

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 10:35 pm

Hi Guys, was looking at fork oil change cos i have to do mine.i know it has'nt been done before and have over 40,000 on clock.it's a 2010 plate 900 but noticed on frame plate a 2002 number or something.So to find my year for the air gap.i seek advice.

                                                                                                                                         Thanks. Andrew



#34 TDM4ever

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Posted 13 October 2017 - 07:02 am

Hi Guys, was looking at fork oil change cos i have to do mine.i know it has'nt been done before and have over 40,000 on clock.it's a 2010 plate 900 but noticed on frame plate a 2002 number or something.So to find my year for the air gap.i seek advice.

                                                                                                                                         Thanks. Andrew

 

If the enigine is black, it is a 2007+ (it changed to black in 2007).

 

You can find oil capacity/level here: http://www.tdm-yamah...ex.php?page=FRK


Edited by TDM4ever, 13 October 2017 - 07:15 am.


#35 stevierst

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Posted 22 March 2018 - 09:12 pm

Just had to do the fork oil seals on my 9er today as one of them blew, the other was seeping. Tried a couple of methods to get the seals out without a full strip, and using the overfill with oil method and ratchet strap seemed to work on one of the legs, but nothing would work on the other.
I had to do a full strip, but I had to make a tool to hold the valve inside the setanshion before I could disassemble the leg. That’s the bit that took me the longest!
Once I had the leg stripped, the seals were a piece of cake to replace, and the oil level took minutes to measure out. Let’s hope I’ve got it right!
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#36 raceengineer35

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Posted 03 May 2018 - 08:44 pm

I run SSR Suspension in the UK, depending upon what you need to know I can give certain info out...However there are plenty of things I will not tell you how to do particuarly when special tools are required.

 

However the TDM forks are dead easy..... Crack the lower mount bolt (it should be torqued to 45N), undo fork cap, lift damping rod and the preload nut needs to be held whilst loosening the pinch nut.  If you can get that far then your safe and competent to carry on, lol...

 

Its best to use a heat gun to warm the area around the seals as if you do not there is a high chance you can destroy or damage the fork slide/guide bushes.

 

The forks are damper rod, so pretty basic as basic....  I can upgrade to a decent cartridge for reasonable money or racetech emulators which in the UK are only available thru certain people.

 

www.ssr-suspension.uk




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