7 replies to this topic

[Plat0nius]

Hi, I'm new here, so don't be angry at me, if this topic already exists, after searching I couldn't find anything that this would fit under.

 

I have a 2004 TDM, with 65k KM (not 100% sure if its correct or not).

 

When i bought the bike a year ago, it ran fine (not super good, but OK enough to warrant me to buy it), but a few months later it started developing engine issues.

 

1st was tick, what lead to checking camchain tentioner and camchain. Chain was worn and the tentioner was the original version 1. Got new chain, new tentioner.

 

While swapping the chain, noticed that the exhaust cam was not moving freely without chain, took it out and saw that there was bearing damage and it was quite bad, intake cap had some wear, but not that bad.

 

Started looking for a new cylinder head + cams but didn't find anything for months. At some point a found used running 2003 TDM engine and bought that. Cylinder head looked gear, little wear, cams where great as well.

 

Swapped over the entire head, cams and put in the new chain + tentioner and did the valve clearances.

 

At some point, I noticed, when the bike is cold, on start it starts knocking, its not coming from the head or cylinder, but feels like gearbox or around there. It goes away after the engine warms or you give it some throttle.

 

Other than that, bike rides fine, all of the power is there, revs up to redline just fine. Low RPM is still twitchy, I have only pulled the wire out and it improved throttle a bit.

 

I have checked the cold start mechanism and its working fine, its not stuck. Thats one of the things I checked to make sure its not that.

 

I put a small video of the noise up on youtube, I recorded it with my phone, so the audio might not be super good, but it all should be heard.

 

https://youtu.be/i__gDtXMirw

 

Thanks for any comments and suggestions.

[fixitsan]

Hi, I'm new here, so don't be angry at me, if this topic already exists, after searching I couldn't find anything that this would fit under.

 

I have a 2004 TDM, with 65k KM (not 100% sure if its correct or not).

 

When i bought the bike a year ago, it ran fine (not super good, but OK enough to warrant me to buy it), but a few months later it started developing engine issues.

 

1st was tick, what lead to checking camchain tentioner and camchain. Chain was worn and the tentioner was the original version 1. Got new chain, new tentioner.

 

While swapping the chain, noticed that the exhaust cam was not moving freely without chain, took it out and saw that there was bearing damage and it was quite bad, intake cap had some wear, but not that bad.

 

Started looking for a new cylinder head + cams but didn't find anything for months. At some point a found used running 2003 TDM engine and bought that. Cylinder head looked gear, little wear, cams where great as well.

 

Swapped over the entire head, cams and put in the new chain + tentioner and did the valve clearances.

 

At some point, I noticed, when the bike is cold, on start it starts knocking, its not coming from the head or cylinder, but feels like gearbox or around there. It goes away after the engine warms or you give it some throttle.

 

Other than that, bike rides fine, all of the power is there, revs up to redline just fine. Low RPM is still twitchy, I have only pulled the wire out and it improved throttle a bit.

 

I have checked the cold start mechanism and its working fine, its not stuck. Thats one of the things I checked to make sure its not that.

 

I put a small video of the noise up on youtube, I recorded it with my phone, so the audio might not be super good, but it all should be heard.

 

https://youtu.be/i__gDtXMirw

 

Thanks for any comments and suggestions.

The tick sounds like something you might here if the throttle bodies/rubbers to the head are not completely sealed to each other, or, if one of the vacuum pipes in between is not connected and one cylinder is a bit more lean than the other

[Plat0nius]

The tick sounds like something you might here if the throttle bodies/rubbers to the head are not completely sealed to each other, or, if one of the vacuum pipes in between is not connected and one cylinder is a bit more lean than the other

 

Thank you for the response!!! I checked the seating of the throttle bodies and that seems ok, but the vacuum pipe is something I noticed might be off. Left side of the bike, there is a plugged hose or how ever it  is correct to name it and on the right side there is a long hose, that is connected to the throttle body and it seems it should connect somewhere on the other end. I can't seem to figure that out currently from the manual I have. 

I guess when I took the throttle bodies off when replacing the head, I must have disconnected it from somewhere by accident or forgot where should it connect to. Any advice ?

[Plat0nius]

I found where the vacuum tube goes from the right side in a thread about throttle body syncing, it goes to the airflap control mechanism under the airbox.

 

Now the knock is gone, it did it one or two times during first start and no longer, revs seem to be bit more stable as well. I'll but the bike back together tomorrow and will see how the ride will be too. Hope it will be little bit smoother than before. then I can finally enjoy it to the fullest and might be ready for some upgrades (taller windshield/heated grips and a better seat).

[fixitsan]

I found where the vacuum tube goes from the right side in a thread about throttle body syncing, it goes to the airflap control mechanism under the airbox.

 

Now the knock is gone, it did it one or two times during first start and no longer, revs seem to be bit more stable as well. I'll but the bike back together tomorrow and will see how the ride will be too. Hope it will be little bit smoother than before. then I can finally enjoy it to the fullest and might be ready for some upgrades (taller windshield/heated grips and a better seat).

With mine I blocked the tube at the air flap mechanism side, which allowed me to remove the whole air flap mechanism

 

 

When you said "I have only pulled the wire out and it improved throttle a bit." Was it the wire on the ECU plug which you remove to also disable the flap ? Just curious

Edited by fixitsan, 20 September 2021 - 09:57 pm.

[Plat0nius]

With mine I blocked the tube at the air flap mechanism side, which allowed me to remove the whole air flap mechanism

 

 

When you said "I have only pulled the wire out and it improved throttle a bit." Was it the wire on the ECU plug which you remove to also disable the flap ? Just curious

 

Yes, the ECU wire. If I find something to block the right side off, I might remove the whole air flap mechanism as well as its serves no purpose anyways if its not working.

Edited by Plat0nius, 21 September 2021 - 05:52 am.

[Studley Ramrod]

Hi and welcome.

[dandywarhol]

I see you answered your own question. The "knock" sounded like out of balance throttle bodies