21 replies to this topic

[alloypiston]

hi All,

fueling and engine cut off's - apologies for bring this up again but i need to sort it our on my bike as it is extremely annoying

I have potentially 3 options;

 

1) has anyone tried this and does it work and no long term issues

 

2)would this solve the issue, cheaper than Power commander;

https://www.ebay.co....gcAAOSwPc9W001J

 

3) dyno Power commander.

 

any thoughts please.

thanks in advance

aw

[Nog]

If yours is like his in the video, the idle rpm is too low.

 

Niners really need a minimum of around 1200-1300 rpm at idle - I used to have mine nearer to 1500 which gave really good response from the off and avoids that issue as you're past that stalling rpm range.

Edited by Nog, 29 May 2018 - 04:22 pm.

[alloypiston]

Hi Nog,

Thanks for the response, i have tried with higher idling but has not made any difference, i pretty much feel it is a fueling issue..........

[Retro]

The vid is showing one method for the air box mod.... check out the Knowledge base

You can tune low speed running via the dash buttons again Knowledge base

Is your bike pre 2006 there was a TPS recalll to solve low throttle stalling after that date

[fixitsan]

The thing about the boosterplug idea is that while it corrects the fuel across a wide range of temperatures, you might find, as I did , that adding a single 300 Ohm resistor ( £0.02 !) in series with the intake temperature sensor, IAT, helps enough.

 

Adjusting the CO settings to a higher amount than what they're currently set at is the equivalent of adjusting the idle air mixture on a carb and that also helps too.

 

In the end I had my ECU remapped for 250 Euros and the bike has been golden since then

Edited by fixitsan, 29 May 2018 - 10:36 pm.

[alloypiston]

Hi All thanks again for the responses,

 

RETRO;

TPS- Done 

CO - Sensor adjusted, tried with higher & lower CO rates

issue remains 

 

FIXITSAN;

 

So the Booster plug could work?

thought that the OEM ECU could not be remapped, where did you get yours remapped

suppose PC would be teh second best alternative to ECU remap?

[thelodger]

I would try the airbox mod first ( as in the vid ).  It made the biggest difference to my bike than the other things I have done.

 

It's also free and quick to do. And you can reverse it easily

[fixitsan]

Hi All thanks again for the responses,

 

RETRO;

TPS- Done 

CO - Sensor adjusted, tried with higher & lower CO rates

issue remains 

 

FIXITSAN;

 

So the Booster plug could work?

thought that the OEM ECU could not be remapped, where did you get yours remapped

suppose PC would be teh second best alternative to ECU remap?

 

 

 Yes the booster plug *could* work, but then so might many other things too and probably at a lot less cost. I found the simple resistor mod helped a bit and led me to seek the remap. Nobody seems to have cured this 100% and I suspect it has a lot to do with the aggressive fuel cutting on overrun coupled with a jumpy ignition timing map. Look at the ignition map in the first post of the thread in the link below, the top left corner, although pretty standard can be a problem , as anyone who has adjusted an old fashioned distributor based ignition system when you make quick changes with the engine running at low rpm. It often causes a stall - http://ecuhacking.ac.../yamaha-tdm900/

 

A PC is a viable alternative however, there is no adjustment of ignition timing. This means that the jumpy low rpm table, and the torque reducer in lower gears , which is achieved partly by retarding the engine timing, are always present. Some people pay the money for the PC and a tuning session and walk away happy so it must work in some manner.

 

The ECU was remaped by Samios Motorsport in Greece (easy to Google and find on Facebook. They know what they're doing and test all their maps on a RR with as close a spec as the bike you have, in my case an opened airbox and a Scorpion exhaust. The TDM remap page is here - http://www.ecu-flash...yamaha-tdm-900/  It changed the character of the bike completely. The throttle is much less twitchy, provides a bit more torque within a smaller rotation of the throttle (at the lower end of it's travel), slightly less aggressive engine braking, pulling power in gears 2 and 3 the same as for first gear, so riding hard out of slow corners is unrestricted.

 

The downsides of a remap - from experience with cars I have tuned, the gearbox can often become a weak point, as can the clutch. I started to get a bit of clutch slipping recently so changed to a HD clutch, although my original had done 102,000 miles The gearbox ( the 900 gearbox is a delight anyway) is showing no signs of wear, jumping out of gears, whirring noises etc. Tyre wear at the rear has gone up with all this extra abuse, but the abuse is not compulsory. 

 

Not all TDM900 ECU's can be programmed, and Samios will want a photo of the label on the ECU to be able to tell you if it's possible. I got lucky and found a compatible one on ebay for £65.

 

For the money I doubt a PC could improve on it, but that is my own subjective opinion. I definitely think it's worth the money and I have even changed back to the original ECU to see if my opinion has remained the same, and I find I much prefer the character of the engine with the remap.

Edited by fixitsan, 30 May 2018 - 08:18 pm.

[JBX]

I can get you a BoosterPlug replacement unit for only $159.00.

[fixitsan]

I can get you a BoosterPlug replacement unit for only $159.00.

 

Bargain

[Nog]

What exactly is the issue though.  Are you getting the engine cutting out like in his video, and if so are you doing the same and blipping the throttle all the time, which can trigger the issue.

 

With the rev's raised slightly I've never had these issues.  The TDM is a snatchy on/off throttle, but I just got used to it as a character of the bike and learned to be smooth on the throttle when pulling away at low speeds, but generally just twist and roar off

[Favs]

What exactly is the issue though.  Are you getting the engine cutting out like in his video, and if so are you doing the same and blipping the throttle all the time, which can trigger the issue.

 

With the rev's raised slightly I've never had these issues.  The TDM is a snatchy on/off throttle, but I just got used to it as a character of the bike and learned to be smooth on the throttle when pulling away at low speeds, but generally just twist and roar off

So much easier and more fun too

[alloypiston]

 

 

 Yes the booster plug *could* work, but then so might many other things too and probably at a lot less cost. I found the simple resistor mod helped a bit and led me to seek the remap. Nobody seems to have cured this 100% and I suspect it has a lot to do with the aggressive fuel cutting on overrun coupled with a jumpy ignition timing map. Look at the ignition map in the first post of the thread in the link below, the top left corner, although pretty standard can be a problem , as anyone who has adjusted an old fashioned distributor based ignition system when you make quick changes with the engine running at low rpm. It often causes a stall - http://ecuhacking.ac.../yamaha-tdm900/

 

A PC is a viable alternative however, there is no adjustment of ignition timing. This means that the jumpy low rpm table, and the torque reducer in lower gears , which is achieved partly by retarding the engine timing, are always present. Some people pay the money for the PC and a tuning session and walk away happy so it must work in some manner.

 

The ECU was remaped by Samios Motorsport in Greece (easy to Google and find on Facebook. They know what they're doing and test all their maps on a RR with as close a spec as the bike you have, in my case an opened airbox and a Scorpion exhaust. The TDM remap page is here - http://www.ecu-flash...yamaha-tdm-900/  It changed the character of the bike completely. The throttle is much less twitchy, provides a bit more torque within a smaller rotation of the throttle (at the lower end of it's travel), slightly less aggressive engine braking, pulling power in gears 2 and 3 the same as for first gear, so riding hard out of slow corners is unrestricted.

 

The downsides of a remap - from experience with cars I have tuned, the gearbox can often become a weak point, as can the clutch. I started to get a bit of clutch slipping recently so changed to a HD clutch, although my original had done 102,000 miles The gearbox ( the 900 gearbox is a delight anyway) is showing no signs of wear, jumping out of gears, whirring noises etc. Tyre wear at the rear has gone up with all this extra abuse, but the abuse is not compulsory. 

 

Not all TDM900 ECU's can be programmed, and Samios will want a photo of the label on the ECU to be able to tell you if it's possible. I got lucky and found a compatible one on ebay for £65.

 

For the money I doubt a PC could improve on it, but that is my own subjective opinion. I definitely think it's worth the money and I have even changed back to the original ECU to see if my opinion has remained the same, and I find I much prefer the character of the engine with the remap.

Thanks, that is a very useful set of information, I have contacted chaps in Athens, did you buy a ready flushed ECU or did you send yours over, i want sure. I prefer to keep mine and get a flushed if possible, in case....

[fixitsan]

Thanks, that is a very useful set of information, I have contacted chaps in Athens, did you buy a ready flushed ECU or did you send yours over, i want sure. I prefer to keep mine and get a flushed if possible, in case....

Yes I picked up a spare ECU from ebay for reflashing. I keep the original as a spare

[Riggers]

Yes I picked up a spare ECU from ebay for reflashing. I keep the original as a spare

 

Hi Stan,

 

Some time ago when I was having electrical problems with my '04' 9er I convinced myself that the fault was with the ECU (which it wasn't). Anyway I bought a second hand ECU off ebay but when I fitted it the bike didn't like it and gave up an error message (don't quote me) something like 'Invalid item fitted' .

 

I got my money back for the ECU and the fault was traced to something else anyway, but just wondered how you got around this problem??

 

Cheers

 

Riggers.

[fixitsan]

I didn't have the problem.... I used a very early ECU with an 01 suffix partnumber to replace a later -02 suffix type. Maybe you had an ABS or immobiliser version when you shouldn't have had or vice versa ?

-01 and -02 suffix parts have neither abs or immobiliser

Edited by fixitsan, 31 May 2018 - 01:32 pm.

[JBX]

 

Hi Stan,

 

Some time ago when I was having electrical problems with my '04' 9er I convinced myself that the fault was with the ECU (which it wasn't). Anyway I bought a second hand ECU off ebay but when I fitted it the bike didn't like it and gave up an error message (don't quote me) something like 'Invalid item fitted' .

 

I got my money back for the ECU and the fault was traced to something else anyway, but just wondered how you got around this problem??

 

Cheers

 

Riggers.

 

2004+ ECU must be matched to the immobilizer unit - in other words you need to buy both units, not only one of them...

[Riggers]

 

2004+ ECU must be matched to the immobilizer unit - in other words you need to buy both units, not only one of them...

 

Ah! Maintenant, je comprends, merci!

 

Riggers.

[alloypiston]

All, quick update, Got a flushed ECU from Samios Motorsport for 450 euros ( thank you fixitsan!!!). I kept my original in case, besides they could not flash. Did not have to replace the transponder . Bile is running much smoother below 3k rpm, previously it was a bitch. not power out put difference is to be noticed but i just wanted a smooth running bike anyway , a happy man!  so fingers crossed that all will continue to go well

[TKH]

Just using an older thread for help. How do you advance the ignition timing on a 9'er? Everything I can see says it can't be done. I just remember back to my early car days where you'd tweak your ignition timing depending on what fuel you used - e.g. 3 star, 4 star. Or you could get a very mild performance gain by using 4 star with a 3 star ignition timing setup. This was on an 850 mini so anything that could give performance that you didn't have to tell your insurance about was a boon. 

 

I've seen the threads about the Samios remap but I've got a techlusion unit on mine which helps putting a bit more fuel in so was looking to see if I could eke a bit more oomph (technical term that) without spending close to £500 for a remap and a spare ecu.