55 replies to this topic

[mgml]

My other problem is the totally sh*** front suspension.  (Ta for the help on my 'snatchy throttle' problem, elsewhere).

 

Sounds like it's bottoming or topping out? Imaging firmly hitting the front fairing with a big soft rubber mallet, that's what it sounds and feels like even on little bumps.  When I got the bike it was set on 'max' hard (1) so I took it back to standard position (7) made barely any difference. I've tried in-between settings, just the same.

 

I've also tried to adjust the damping.  Manual says there are four 'click' settings. No there aren't. The rebound definitely has no click stops, you can turn them with your fingers easily and just like the comp' adjustment I can detect little difference wherever I set the rebound to, not that I know where I'm setting them to?

 

I'm all ears.

 

(The rear sus' is very good, it's a two year old £400 Maxton shock, got the receipts).

Edited by mgml, 04 August 2018 - 08:13 pm.

[muddy]

mine firmed up a lot after a fork oil change

[fixitsan]

Not being able to find any clicks at the front suggests something is wrong with the adjustment gate in the front fork. You might to take the top off one of the legs and check there is a connecting rod in place between the adjusting screw ate the top and the  damping rod at the bottom of the fork. The clicking is due to a spring loaded ballbearing at the adjusting gate riding in detents in the damping rod it mounts inside of.

 

At the same time as the top is off he oil (if present) could be dipped to check for condition (nice and clean and not smelling rank)

[mgml]

That's my plan tmrw'.  I'll be taking the tops off, checking levels.  I've even had thought of changing the oil with forks still in place.  I've removed and done 'em a few times but am more lazy these days.

 

It would be strange surely for the connecting rod to be disconnected?  Maybe someone's been playing about? anyway I'll investigate tmrw.

[TKH]

Maybe springs have had their day?

[mgml]

Well, I've discovered why the Comp' and Rebound adjusters seem to do nowt when adjusted.  I can't see they're connected to anything!   Put bike on main stand, loaded the top box, front end off the ground. 

 

Removed everything (forks still on bike) and vacuumed out the oil. I didn't measure the oil level with the front on the ground but there's supposed to be 507ml fluid in each leg, there was nowhere near that, approx 500/600 ml total both legs but there's still a bit in the bottom but very very little.

 

You can see the components lined up as fitted in the leg, this is not the same setup as in the 2002 service manual. I'm not an expert here but the adjustment seems to be fixed by the valves and not adjustable?

 

What yer reckon?  The problem remember is that I feel every little bump as a 'hit' the bigger the bump the bigger the 'hit' as though there's not enough compression damping.

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Edited by mgml, 05 August 2018 - 03:37 pm.

[Bjørge]

That's the explaination for the non-functioning rebound damping adjuster - it was disabled when RaceTech Gold Valve Emulators were fitted (the brass thingys).

The question is whether it was done correctly, you will need to dismantle the forks to check.

[mgml]

Yeah, I checked them out, seems some people regard this as an 'upgrade'.  But what's more to dismantle? Surely that's it, they are what they are.  I'm assuming I can only make adjustments in the form of different/more/less oil?

Edited by mgml, 05 August 2018 - 03:42 pm.

[fixitsan]

Yeah, I checked them out, seems some people regard this as an 'upgrade'.  But what's more to dismantle? Surely that's it, they are what they are.  I'm assuming I can only make adjustments in the form of different/more/less oil?

 

I don't have the emulators, but I think I read that you need to modify the damper rod/valve assembly in the bottom of  the fork

[mgml]

Just viewed a few YouTube videos re' these emulators inc' one from the Race Tech inventor himself.  Got a pretty good grip on the principle of how the system works now.

 

I'll have a look at the damper rods to see what's what and hopefully won't have to start faffing about with them too much if at all.  I can also adjust the emulators themselves but the whole process seems a bit hit and miss as there isn't any specific right or wrong.

 

Edited by mgml, 05 August 2018 - 05:55 pm.

[Hombre]

Great if your pit crew listens to your comments when you get home from work and changes the settings overnight for your morning commute.
The 900 needs better forks, even if only to get it to the 3VD standard. Faffing about like this is for the birds.

[TDM4ever]

Yeah, I checked them out, seems some people regard this as an 'upgrade'.  But what's more to dismantle? Surely that's it, they are what they are.  I'm assuming I can only make adjustments in the form of different/more/less oil?

 

That damper rod needs to have holes drilled to make this upgrade work.

 

I did this upgrade on my FJ1100 and it was like night and day. But, the drilling of correct the damper rod holes is very critical.

Edited by TDM4ever, 06 August 2018 - 07:01 am.

[Bjørge]

Just viewed a few YouTube videos re' these emulators inc' one from the Race Tech inventor himself.  Got a pretty good grip on the principle of how the system works now.

 

I'll have a look at the damper rods to see what's what and hopefully won't have to start faffing about with them too much if at all.  I can also adjust the emulators themselves but the whole process seems a bit hit and miss as there isn't any specific right or wrong.

 

It really isn't that hard - you need to check for the existence of a couple of extra holes in the damper rod and check the position of the rebound adjuster mechanism.It is supposed to be left at max. opening.

[mgml]

Yeah done a bit of research, I know where I stand now.  Don't know if whoever fitted this stuff has done the extra damper holes? Do I need the damper rod tool?   Don't want to loosen it off then find I can't retighten it.

 

I also suspect that the emulator 'yellow' springs I have are too strong.  I'm tempted at this time to just back off the emulators to about 2 turns refill with oil and try it out.

[fixitsan]

Yeah done a bit of research, I know where I stand now.  Don't know if whoever fitted this stuff has done the extra damper holes? Do I need the damper rod tool?   Don't want to loosen it off then find I can't retighten it.

 

I also suspect that the emulator 'yellow' springs I have are too strong.  I'm tempted at this time to just back off the emulators to about 2 turns refill with oil and try it out.

 

It's more likely the case you won't be able to slacken them off. Before I got a suitable tool i used a broom handle with a few layers of self amalgamating tape wrapped around it, jammed it into the damper socket and it held the rod still while i released the allen bolt

[Bjørge]

I also suspect that the emulator 'yellow' springs I have are too strong.  I'm tempted at this time to just back off the emulators to about 2 turns refill with oil and try it out.

 

The yellow springs are the default suggestion from RaceTech. Think they're the second softest. The default setup also suggests SAE15 fork oil. 

I can understand your hesitation about tuning the forks - I just left it according to RaceTech suggestions.

 

Beware that this is on the firm side of the scale compared to a factory TDM setup. If you want that soft feeling, leveling out bumps on harsh surfaces, you should go for a softer setup. SAE10 oil & softer spring on the emulator. Maybe worth thinking about that damping is there to help you keep in contact with the road rarther than keeping you comfortable 

[mgml]

 

It's more likely the case you won't be able to slacken them off. Before I got a suitable tool i used a broom handle with a few layers of self amalgamating tape wrapped around it, jammed it into the damper socket and it held the rod still while i released the allen bolt

 And that worked ok, or was it a right bugger?

 

The yellow springs are the default suggestion from RaceTech. Think they're the second softest. The default setup also suggests SAE15 fork oil. 

I can understand your hesitation about tuning the forks - I just left it according to RaceTech suggestions.

 

Beware that this is on the firm side of the scale compared to a factory TDM setup. If you want that soft feeling, leveling out bumps on harsh surfaces, you should go for a softer setup. SAE10 oil & softer spring on the emulator. Maybe worth thinking about that damping is there to help you keep in contact with the road rarther than keeping you comfortable 

 

 

You cant just pick up blue springs easily, I've tried.  It's way too hard as it is, not just firm.  It's like comp' damping is almost total until the main valve comes into operation.  I'm wondering if there's been any extra holes drilled in the d' rods at all?   

[fixitsan]

 And that worked ok, or was it a right bugger?

 

 

The thick dowel with tape worked, I held everything inverted with my weight pushing down to force the dowel into the damper rod while I cracked the allen nut off

 

I'e since bought one of these, but couldn't find a 28mm one so ground a bit of an edge around it to reduce it from 30mm to 28mm. Has to be usede with long extension rods though  https://www.ebay.co....j8AAOSw0UdXt0rQ

 

 

The time honoured way is to find a bolt with a head of the right size to fit the damper rod, then weld it to a bar. Or you could lock two nuts of the right size together on a piece of threaded bar.

 

 

A lot of plumbing compression fittings use a 28mm nut. I bet you could solder one to a piece of 15mm copper pipe to do the same job

Edited by fixitsan, 06 August 2018 - 01:51 pm.

[mgml]

Good, so that's what I'll be looking to lock onto.  Is that 28mm across the flats?

Edited by mgml, 06 August 2018 - 02:09 pm.

[fixitsan]

Good, so that's what I'll be looking to lock onto.  Is that 28mm across the flats?

 

 

Damn  good question. Not sure to be honest because I didn't try a hex shaped tool. And I don't have anything here to try either