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#21 TDM4ever

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Posted 06 August 2018 - 04:12 pm

 

The thick dowel with tape worked, I held everything inverted with my weight pushing down to force the dowel into the damper rod while I cracked the allen nut off

 

I'e since bought one of these, but couldn't find a 28mm one so ground a bit of an edge around it to reduce it from 30mm to 28mm. Has to be usede with long extension rods though  https://www.ebay.co....j8AAOSw0UdXt0rQ

 

 

The time honoured way is to find a bolt with a head of the right size to fit the damper rod, then weld it to a bar. Or you could lock two nuts of the right size together on a piece of threaded bar.

 

 

A lot of plumbing compression fittings use a 28mm nut. I bet you could solder one to a piece of 15mm copper pipe to do the same job

 

Just use an impact gun on the allen bolt, then you don't need to hold the damper rod very hard.



#22 fixitsan

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Posted 06 August 2018 - 04:18 pm

 

Just use an impact gun on the allen bolt, then you don't need to hold the damper rod very hard.

 

 

Good point, a hex key in a reversible drill might work too


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#23 mgml

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Posted 06 August 2018 - 06:14 pm

I've just done exactly that, using my 18V impact cordless, couldn't budge it.   Put so much power to it I totally split/twisted the broom handle. Had to use a hex bit in a cordless anyway as my 8mm allen key wasn't long enough.

 

I'm suspecting that the holes may have been drilled (don't know obviously) because there are signs that whoever did this pretty much knew what they were doing.  I looked at the spacers and saw that they've been reduced in height, done very neatly and square but you can see slight cutting marks on the end of the tube. Wasn't a bodge job done by hand with a hacksaw.

 

I also checked the setting of the emulators preload thinking that it was maybe set high but it was set as low as it can go, barely one turn on the setting. I drilled the two other small holes in the little damping plate under the spring. 

 

I'm going to put it back together with the new oil and see how it goes.   

 

P.S.  How do I extend the inner tube again?  I took the weight of the rear to let the outer tube ride up to make it easier to access the damper from inside the tube.  I can't budge it by hand.


Edited by mgml, 06 August 2018 - 06:47 pm.


#24 Bjørge

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 05:57 am

 

The thick dowel with tape worked, I held everything inverted with my weight pushing down to force the dowel into the damper rod while I cracked the allen nut off

 

 

I used a T-bar ground to fit the x-agonal inner side of the tube. 


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#25 mgml

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 06:10 am

I used a 28mm plumbing fitting like fixitsan suggested, fitted perfect.  I'll maybe try again but with it fixed to a metal tube not wood.

 

I've read lots of threads about the emulators and it's obvious most people have to play about with them a lot to get things right, different oil, different, spring settings, etc.  I'd be surprised if I got a good set up without a few changes.


Edited by mgml, 07 August 2018 - 06:13 am.


#26 TDM4ever

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 07:00 am

 

I've read lots of threads about the emulators and it's obvious most people have to play about with them a lot to get things right, different oil, different, spring settings, etc.  I'd be surprised if I got a good set up without a few changes.

 

Oh yes....

 

I think I opened my FJ1100 forks 15-20 times to dial in the emulator.... But, in the end it was very good.



#27 Bjørge

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 08:54 am

I used a 28mm plumbing fitting like fixitsan suggested, fitted perfect.  I'll maybe try again but with it fixed to a metal tube not wood.

 

I've read lots of threads about the emulators and it's obvious most people have to play about with them a lot to get things right, different oil, different, spring settings, etc.  I'd be surprised if I got a good set up without a few changes.

 

Do you have any idea about your return damping ? To my understanding, you first choose oil viscosity to get the proper return damping, then alter valve springs/preload and/or drill extra holes in valve.

 

The first question, then, would be if return damping is too aggressive ?


Edited by Bjørge, 07 August 2018 - 08:56 am.

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#28 mgml

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 08:59 am

Yeah but as I've discovered from other threads the whole process is a bit hit and miss. Race tecj say 15w. Yamaha 10w. Think I'll try 15 first

#29 fixitsan

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 10:05 am

I've got the early stiffer springs in mine, and use ATF fluid, Dexron 3, or Dexron 3H (low foaming version) if. The latest version of ATF, Dexron 6 has lower final viscosity so gives a slightly softer ride if required

 

 

5L for £19  https://www.ebay.co....Xdexron 3h.TRS0

 

I had previously run 10W oil and with the damping set to maximum it was still too soft.  Changed to ATF and I use the 2nd or 3rd click stop for damping now

 

But, ATF isn't recommended for cartridge forks where a lighter oil might be preferred, according to this it's a bit too thick  https://www.peterver...uspension_Fluid


Edited by fixitsan, 07 August 2018 - 10:18 am.

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#30 mgml

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 07:16 pm

Yes.  With the aid of my plumber's weapon I've confirmed that whoever had this done drilled the dampers.  Don't know how many holes are standard but there's 6 holes now.

Attached Files


Edited by mgml, 07 August 2018 - 07:22 pm.


#31 TDM4ever

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 08:35 pm

Looks like it was done by someone who knew what they were doing.

 

So, now it is "just" a matter of dialing it in. Good luck  :)



#32 mgml

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Posted 07 August 2018 - 09:10 pm

Yeah, that's what I thought before I got to this stage. The holes are very neatly done as was the spacer reduction length.  Think I'll go for race tech recommended 15w oil instead of the normal 10w. 

 

If I'm honest I couldn't quite analyze the exact problem with the suspension before, except it was very s***e.  Basically every bump made the front fairing sound as if was being hit with a big fat soft rubber hammer which I interpret as being over damped so that each bump was transmitted to the bike in full ?

 

I'll suck it and see.  I anticipate a few more adjustments.


Edited by mgml, 07 August 2018 - 09:12 pm.


#33 poppykle

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 12:53 am

Saw an R1 USD fork conversion on a TDM on youtube yesterday.



#34 mgml

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 05:56 am

 

Oh yes....

 

I think I opened my FJ1100 forks 15-20 times to dial in the emulator.... But, in the end it was very good.

So what settings have you got?  Have you got the same emulators?  Which springs, yellow?  I've read a few comments by others saying the yellow springs are too strong (I've got blue springs on order/few weeks time).  


Edited by mgml, 08 August 2018 - 05:56 am.


#35 TDM4ever

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 06:32 am

So what settings have you got?  Have you got the same emulators?  Which springs, yellow?  I've read a few comments by others saying the yellow springs are too strong (I've got blue springs on order/few weeks time).  

 

I sold the FJ a couple of years ago when I bought the TDM, but it was YSR emulators (same principle as yours). It was all trial and error, so I have no specific setting as such.

As far as I remember, the springs were 0.95 kg/mm (not from racetech). The spring rate needs to match your bike and body weight and your riding style.

 

In general, linear springs are stiffer than progressive springs and mostly used if riding aggressively (or on atrack). They do tend to make normal street ride rather harsh as they don't handle smaller bumps very well. On my FJ, they were a revelation compared to the stock springs because the bike is so front heavy.

Thinking about it, I don't really think they will benefit the TDM, for normal street use, as it is rather front light.

 

Sorry that I can't be more helpful  :sorry:


Edited by TDM4ever, 08 August 2018 - 06:41 am.


#36 mgml

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 12:25 pm

Ta. Useful info. I'll probably have to play around a bit to get a good setup. I've ordered some blue springs, some think the yellow springs too hard.

Anyway thanks to you all, would have taken me ages to find all this out without all your info and tips.

#37 fixitsan

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 02:17 pm

Yes.  With the aid of my plumber's weapon I've confirmed that whoever had this done drilled the dampers.  Don't know how many holes are standard but there's 6 holes now.

 

Well done making that specialist tool  :)


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#38 mgml

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Posted 08 August 2018 - 02:39 pm

I'm a genius by accident.  It's 28mm like you said, but I couldn't budge it, only had a 8mm hex bit in a bit holder and only 6mm stood proud of the fork bottom, couldn't get a grip on it.  Then a light bulb moment!  put a 8mm ring spanner through the fork spindle shaft, put the hex bit though it which locked the spanner in the shaft hole and just turned the plumbers weapon!  Came undone easy with 18 inches of leverage.   :cool:



#39 mgml

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 05:08 pm

An update if you're interested.

 

Put it all back together, filled her up with new 15 oil and it's MUCH better.  Almost like proper suspension.  Just a tad stiff, I'll maybe remove a some of the oil and replace with 10 to make it a bit softer but it's ok for now.  I've got Blue emulator springs on order so I'll prob do it then.



#40 wicklamulla

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Posted 15 August 2018 - 12:31 pm

An update if you're interested.

 

Put it all back together, filled her up with new 15 oil and it's MUCH better.  Almost like proper suspension.  Just a tad stiff, I'll maybe remove a some of the oil and replace with 10 to make it a bit softer but it's ok for now.  I've got Blue emulator springs on order so I'll prob do it then.

ride it as is fer the moment as you may like the 15wt setup after a few (s)miles. Yew can always blend 10wt and 15wt to make 12.5 wt oil if you so choose.  I loike 15WT in my TDM as i like it hard and fast!


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