55 replies to this topic

[mgml]

Exactly what i was thinking

[Bjørge]

...and again: Suspension is about keeping tyre in contact with the road surface, not for keeping you floating on top of the bike 

[dandywarhol]

I've just come across this thread, looks like the previous owner did a proper job. I haven't done a TDM for a while but my latest RT conversion was on my TRX. 

 

Took a while to match the excellence of the rear Ohlins but it's finally there and I'm happy. Eventually I settled for 0.90 linear springs, yellow compression damping springs turned 2 turns, 4 holes in the plate for low speed comp damping (2 std), ATF and a 2mm hole in the waist of the damper rod. That's for around 83kg weight.

 

Once you've got it right, you'll leave it and enjoy it. The last TDM900 i did I used YSS valves, 15 weight oil and stock springs for a 100 ish kg rider - he likes soft springing and firm damping.

[mgml]

I've just come across this thread, looks like the previous owner did a proper job. I haven't done a TDM for a while but my latest RT conversion was on my TRX. 

 

Took a while to match the excellence of the rear Ohlins but it's finally there and I'm happy. Eventually I settled for 0.90 linear springs, yellow compression damping springs turned 2 turns, 4 holes in the plate for low speed comp damping (2 std), ATF and a 2mm hole in the waist of the damper rod. That's for around 83kg weight.

 

Once you've got it right, you'll leave it and enjoy it. The last TDM900 i did I used YSS valves, 15 weight oil and stock springs for a 100 ish kg rider - he likes soft springing and firm damping.

 

The previous owner spent a chunk of money sorting stuff out but made a lousy job of it. 

 

Where to start?  There's a £400 Nitron rear shock set up rock hard which I've now adjusted to something like good, so I won't winge about that, maybe the best mod' on the bike. The Delkovic cans (with an abortion air box mod) sounded v' loud and horrible, even with the baffles in. Imagine a Rottweiler barking at 1300 rpm.

 

The air box mod OMG! it was done with either a chain saw or an axe. The massive cut out made a huge suction sound which with the Delkovic cans was the defining feature of the bike. People would stop and stare when stopped at lights.  I got an air box off eBay £25, removing just the flap and actuator. Tried various packing for the cans but heavy stainless steel wool balls did the best job.  The bike sounds OK now.  A power commander (USB 3 model) was fitted and mapped. Don't know what it was like when fitted but the low rev throttle response was crap when I got her, hence my first post here.  I've since adjusted the P' Comm' to give max fuel in the low rev range which has improved things a bit.

 

And finally the Race Tech emulators. Whoever did that, did a good job.  Spacers neatly cut down, dampers very neatly and accurately drilled. With new oil it's now OK' ish. I think the springs should be the lighter Blue ones instead of the heavy Yellows.

 

End result after much faffing about is that the bike is now pretty good. I'm off to France, Italy next week for two weeks.

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Edited by mgml, 19 August 2018 - 11:31 pm.

[dandywarhol]

Neat job he did on the box!

 

I also removed the flap and actuator on mine. It might be worth having the PC remapped after your changes - IMO they do make a difference. Or download a similar map from their files

 

http://www.powercomm...mdlyrid=406-411

[mgml]

I was going to have the PC remapped the other week but it was a bit pricey and what with the issues I was working on at the time I postponed it. Might have it done at a later date.

 

I downloaded a few maps last week but there doesn't seem to be an exact specific one with my setup so I'll prob' leave it to someone who knows what they're doing.

 

P.S. I've not read much here about people disconnecting the O2 sensor and how it effects things?

Edited by mgml, 20 August 2018 - 08:05 pm.

[fixitsan]

 

The previous owner spent a chunk of money sorting stuff out but made a lousy job of it. 

 

Where to start?  There's a £400 Nitron rear shock set up rock hard which I've now adjusted to something like good, so I won't winge about that, maybe the best mod' on the bike. The Delkovic cans (with an abortion air box mod) sounded v' loud and horrible, even with the baffles in. Imagine a Rottweiler barking at 1300 rpm.

 

The air box mod OMG! it was done with either a chain saw or an axe. The massive cut out made a huge suction sound which with the Delkovic cans was the defining feature of the bike. People would stop and stare when stopped at lights.  I got an air box off eBay £25, removing just the flap and actuator. Tried various packing for the cans but heavy stainless steel wool balls did the best job.  The bike sounds OK now.  A power commander (USB 3 model) was fitted and mapped. Don't know what it was like when fitted but the low rev throttle response was crap when I got her, hence my first post here.  I've since adjusted the P' Comm' to give max fuel in the low rev range which has improved things a bit.

 

And finally the Race Tech emulators. Whoever did that, did a good job.  Spacers neatly cut down, dampers very neatly and accurately drilled. With new oil it's now OK' ish. I think the springs should be the lighter Blue ones instead of the heavy Yellows.

 

End result after much faffing about is that the bike is now pretty good. I'm off to France, Italy next week for two weeks.

 

 

In the bottom pic the intake air temperature sensor is sitting above the filter element...is that your mod ?

[mgml]

No that's exactly as it was, it was barely even hanging in there.

[fixitsan]

No that's exactly as it was, it was barely even hanging in there.

 

They're normally mounted through the bottom of the intake box. Some people move them up away from the normal position, which can be affected by local heating from the engine. In the new position it shouldn't cause any problem, but I never found any benefit to relocating it, although I imagine if I were regularly running in slow traffic and warm weather it could be a different story

[TDM4ever]

 

P.S. I've not read much here about people disconnecting the O2 sensor and how it effects things?

 

If you are using a Power Commander, it should be disconnected.

[Nog]

I was going to have the PC remapped the other week but it was a bit pricey and what with the issues I was working on at the time I postponed it. Might have it done at a later date.

 

If you don't mind some home tinkering and tweaking of the PC III (and since you can now unplug the lambda sensor), you can buy an AFR gauge that comes with a wideband sensor that screws straight into the same location.

 

Then you can monitor your AFR as you ride and see any throttle positions etc that might be a tad rich or lean and then play with the map when you get home.  I had one from a previous kit car I was setting up and fitted it to the TDM as it has pod filters instead of an air box.  I found an 'off the shelf' map for K&N and open silencers actually works pretty well for it without any further tweaking.

 

Still a little pricey at around £180 (I bought this one - https://www.amazon.c...dp/B00N3VGPYS/)but I've used mine to tune a kit car and 3 bikes, so works out fairly cheap in the long run compared to dyno costs.

 

Was also interesting using it to see what affect the CO setting has on the AFR level - basically nothing at idle (for those wondering).

[dandywarhol]

That's a neat bit o'kit!

 

What are you aiming for on full throttle? 11.5 - 12?

[mgml]

 

If you are using a Power Commander, it should be disconnected.

 

Maybe it is disconnected, I haven't checked?  It's def' still wired up at the exhaust end.

 

If you don't mind some home tinkering and tweaking of the PC III (and since you can now unplug the lambda sensor), you can buy an AFR gauge that comes with a wideband sensor that screws straight into the same location.

 

Then you can monitor your AFR as you ride and see any throttle positions etc that might be a tad rich or lean and then play with the map when you get home.  I had one from a previous kit car I was setting up and fitted it to the TDM as it has pod filters instead of an air box.  I found an 'off the shelf' map for K&N and open silencers actually works pretty well for it without any further tweaking.

 

Still a little pricey at around £180 (I bought this one - https://www.amazon.c...dp/B00N3VGPYS/)but I've used mine to tune a kit car and 3 bikes, so works out fairly cheap in the long run compared to dyno costs.

 

Was also interesting using it to see what affect the CO setting has on the AFR level - basically nothing at idle (for those wondering).

 

So this just plugs straight into the original sensor position?  Is it powered direct from the battery or do you splice it into the wiring somewhere?

Edited by mgml, 21 August 2018 - 06:11 pm.

[Nog]

What are you aiming for on full throttle? 11.5 - 12?

 

General cruising is around 13.5 and WOT drops into the 12's, occasionally high 11's.  Low 11's into the 10's and you're running too rich.  The main thing is it's not running lean and the fuel economy is about the same as the bike was when stock, so I know it's not too far off the ideal.  I could probably tweak the low fueling to be a touch smoother but to be honest it's really not bad at all to be fair, so I thought I'd stick with the "if it ain't broke" mentality on that one.

 

 

So this just plugs straight into the original sensor position?  Is it powered direct from the battery or do you splice it into the wiring somewhere?

 

Yeah you screw it into the same location, it's got the standard thread size so is plug and play.  Just route the wiring up under the tank.

 

The only issue is it comes with wiring to suit cars too, so you have a decent length of cable to loose somewhere.  It should be able to be coiled up behind the airbox and squeezed in, or you can run it into the tail section and coil it there.

 

It just needs it's own live and earth - as the sensor involves a heating element I'd wire it the same as you would some heated grips on a relay from a switched live.

[dandywarhol]

Thanks Nog. I'd of thought 13.5 was quite rich for cruising - 15-16 being the norm, slightly lean AFR. The only way to change that would be via a Power Commander or similar as the dash buttons only affect idle from memory. It would be interesting to know what a stock , unmodified 900 reads on cruise.

[Nog]

Yeah you can move to a leaner amount for cruising but it could affect other times as you're only working off throttle position at certain revs with the power commander.

 

I should warn you up front that tweaking the map on the PC can get time consuming as you have to take it for a ride across a range of rpms, remember an area you want to tweak, come back and plug in the PC, then take it back out and check the result.  Then repeat for all the areas you need to work on.  It's not difficult, just takes a little time so you need to be willing to do it, but usually the dynojet premade maps get you near enough that hopefully the tweaking is only minimal.

 

I got it to the map I like and it works well across all the riding I do - I guess I could lean the cruise out a bit more but it will have knock-ons elsewhere, and I like the characteristic I've managed to settle on so thought I'd leave it there.  As I say the fuel economy isn't noticeably affected and it's not too rich I'd be worrying about washing the piston walls, so I'm ok with the setup.

 

I think a stock bike would probably be more lean as you say, but it would be slightly harder to measure as you'd need to keep the stock lambda sensor for the ECU to work from, which means drilling a hole in the other downpipe and welding a collar on (you get one in the kit actually) to install the AFR gauge sensor into and run both together.  Since you can ditch the stock one with a PC fitted I just used the same location for ease.