Apologies in advance for what I'm pretty sure is a stupid question.
As previously mentioned, both my new fork seals are leaking.🙁 When I was refilling the forks, the manual says to fill with 507ml of oil with an air gap of 133mm. However, after pouring in the required amount the air gap was bigger than 133mm. As I had completely rebuilt the forks rather than just changing the oil, I thought it not unreasonable to assume you might require some extra oil so filled the fork legs to get the correct air gap. This meant that I had to put 520ml into each leg.
So my (dumb?)question is, would the additional oil cause extra pressure to build up within the fork and result in oil being forced past the seal? I know, clutching at straws😀,but curious to know what effect putting in to much oil would have,other than stiffening up the suspension.🤔
Fork Oil Level
Started by
JohnnyW
, Jun 17 2022 09:11 am
11 replies to this topic
#1
JohnnyW
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Posted 17 June 2022 - 09:11 am
Two wrongs dont make a right but three rights make a left.
#2
steve27bha
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needs a 2nd hobby
- Location:West Lothian
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Posted 17 June 2022 - 10:55 am
I'll be blunt.
It is a stupid question when it does not include the details of the bike - model, year.
"Previously mentioned" doesn't cut it - I am not going to search back to find the relevant thread / post.
- and your TDM model info. says "no more"
TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with 
CBX750FE in reserve; Cagiva N90 125 now rebuilt & in use.
#3
JohnnyW
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Posted 17 June 2022 - 12:27 pm
I'll be blunt.
It is a stupid question when it does not include the details of the bike - model, year.
"Previously mentioned" doesn't cut it - I am not going to search back to find the relevant thread / post.
- and your TDM model info. says "no more"
It's a 2003 900. Apologies for not including that info.
Two wrongs dont make a right but three rights make a left.
#4
steve27bha
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needs a 2nd hobby
- Location:West Lothian
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Posted 17 June 2022 - 03:32 pm
The manual says first fill, then stroke/wait, then measure, and if the oil level / air gap is wrong correct it. In my experience this is the usual method - the oil volume is approximate, the level accurate.
So set the air gap using extra oil as you have done.
The air gets compressed and adds to the spring effect, and the standard gap should give the standard air pressure inside that the seals are designed to cope with. In other words if you still get a seal leak it is not the fault of the air gap / "extra" oil - all assuming you have done the rebuild correctly.
Good luck.
TDM900A 2008/09 in use, with
CBX750FE in reserve; Cagiva N90 125 now rebuilt & in use.
#5
JohnnyW
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Posted 17 June 2022 - 09:31 pm
I didn't think an extra 13ml of oil would make much of a difference but I thought I'd ask anyway. I'll use oem parts next and hopefully that should solve the problem.
Two wrongs dont make a right but three rights make a left.
#6
dapleb
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Monkey Boy
- Location:The home of morris dancin
- TDM model: 1990
Posted 17 June 2022 - 09:56 pm
Regardless of spec of boike. If they are completely full of oil and crushed as hard as possible its still a booger to pop the seals....and the seals will still normally pop before leak...so it ain't your filling causing the issue JW.
Check the tubes carefully for any out of roundness...odd wear. Then try again.
ಠ﹏ಠ
Check the tubes carefully for any out of roundness...odd wear. Then try again.
ಠ﹏ಠ
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#7
JohnnyW
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Posted 18 June 2022 - 06:12 pm
[quote name="dapleb" post="394697"
Check the tubes carefully for any out of roundness...odd wear. Then try again.
ಠ﹏ಠ[/quote]
I'll check them but the old seals got it thru its Mot a few weeks ago so I'm assuming the tubes are ok.
I was pretty sure it wasn't the extra oil that was causing the problem but I thought I'd ask anyway, clutching at straws.🤣
It's probably the pattern parts from Wemoto or my method of fitting them. In the absence of the official tool, I used the old seals to drift the new ones in as far as possible and then very carefully tapped round the edges to move them down the last few mil. I also seem to recall from a previous thread that the seals should be fitted with the flat side up and that's the way I fitted these ones. Is my method ok or anything I should do differently?
Check the tubes carefully for any out of roundness...odd wear. Then try again.
ಠ﹏ಠ[/quote]
I'll check them but the old seals got it thru its Mot a few weeks ago so I'm assuming the tubes are ok.
I was pretty sure it wasn't the extra oil that was causing the problem but I thought I'd ask anyway, clutching at straws.🤣
It's probably the pattern parts from Wemoto or my method of fitting them. In the absence of the official tool, I used the old seals to drift the new ones in as far as possible and then very carefully tapped round the edges to move them down the last few mil. I also seem to recall from a previous thread that the seals should be fitted with the flat side up and that's the way I fitted these ones. Is my method ok or anything I should do differently?
Two wrongs dont make a right but three rights make a left.
#8
wicklamulla
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is it Jizzy Rascal time yet.....?
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Posted 19 June 2022 - 06:52 pm
I'll check them but the old seals got it thru its Mot a few weeks ago so I'm assuming the tubes are ok.
I was pretty sure it wasn't the extra oil that was causing the problem but I thought I'd ask anyway, clutching at straws.
It's probably the pattern parts from Wemoto or my method of fitting them. In the absence of the official tool, I used the old seals to drift the new ones in as far as possible and then very carefully tapped round the edges to move them down the last few mil. I also seem to recall from a previous thread that the seals should be fitted with the flat side up and that's the way I fitted these ones. Is my method ok or anything I should do differently?
yes there is Johnny, please put the cream on yer scones first followed by the jam as the Cornish are always blasting us Devon residents for not following their method.
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
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#9
DeeBee
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enuff posts to fill a 50cc
- Location:Oxted, Surrey
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Posted 19 June 2022 - 07:11 pm
NO! Jam first then the Cornish Clotted cream
#10
dapleb
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Monkey Boy
- Location:The home of morris dancin
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Posted 19 June 2022 - 07:29 pm
Ewe could try a bit o PVC poipe to drive the seal on. Protect or wrap the edge first to give it a larger contact patch and protect the seal argh arrrgh. Arrrrrgh.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#11
JohnnyW
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Posted 19 June 2022 - 08:00 pm
👍Ewe could try a bit o PVC poipe to drive the seal on. Protect or wrap the edge first to give it a larger contact patch and protect the seal argh arrrgh. Arrrrrgh.
yes there is Johnny, please put the cream on yer scones first followed by the jam as the Cornish are always blasting us Devon residents for not following their method.
Sorrry Wicky, I'm a jam first guy.😀😀
Two wrongs dont make a right but three rights make a left.
#12
Snowbird
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- Location:Often on another planet, but mostly south Cambs. (St.Neots)
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Posted 19 June 2022 - 08:19 pm
Ewe could try a bit o PVC poipe to drive the seal on. Protect or wrap the edge first to give it a larger contact patch and protect the seal argh arrrgh. Arrrrrgh.
I found a length of aluminium tube at work the right size and ground a slight taper inside to cater for the lip and used that as a slide hammer, did fine and not leaked.
That was with oem seals from fowlers though after filing across the rust pit I found on the tube and dabbing clear nail varnish over it to smooth the edges.
Next time it leaks the tubes will be off to luton for a re-hard chrome and grind.
Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.
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