So is the info on that pic on the previous page incorrect?
No. Look at the overall length of the body/barrel, the 34mm new one is longer overall.
Posted 18 May 2020 - 11:02 am
So is the info on that pic on the previous page incorrect?
No. Look at the overall length of the body/barrel, the 34mm new one is longer overall.
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
Posted 18 May 2020 - 11:46 am
No. Look at the overall length of the body/barrel, the 34mm new one is longer overall.
ok tangs very much as i was confuzzled. Randy Borehole just rang me and tried to explain it to me but he's a foreigner and i cudn't understand a word he was saying.
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php
Posted 18 May 2020 - 11:58 am
Oi tink ............... feck it, can't keep it up, I think the original tensioner with the short body INSIDE the engine allowed the plunger to flex and occasionally stick in the body as the chain drags against it. The longer body offers more support
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, 2014 Kawasaki W800, 2011 Aprilia Tuono 1000 V4, 2020 Yamaha XSR900
"At the cutting edge of technophobia"
Posted 18 May 2020 - 02:47 pm
Posted 18 May 2020 - 03:02 pm
It's the longer length inside that matters, longer inside keeps plunger from binding.
2002 TDM 900 Red/Yellow Cocktail (it's yellow)., biggified some
Posted 18 May 2020 - 03:09 pm
That's what she said!
now that's spoken loike a TDM 850 rider!
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php
Posted 18 May 2020 - 05:35 pm
Posted 18 May 2020 - 07:26 pm
That's clarified it then chaps.
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
Posted 20 May 2020 - 08:25 am
Edited by SeizedBalt, 20 May 2020 - 08:25 am.
Posted 20 May 2020 - 09:18 am
Posted 20 May 2020 - 09:44 am
If you are going in to replace camchain and do valve shims, putting new later type tensioner is essential.
Posted 20 May 2020 - 10:22 am
Edited by chrisr, 20 May 2020 - 10:36 am.
The Blue One : 2004 model owned 2010-2018 much loved, much missed and now living with a man in Scotland
The Black One : 2010 Model Registered 2013 owned 2018 - present.Beowulf Cans. Renthal 755s Grip Puppies,15w fork oil,DL650 handguards,givi engine bars,led spotlights,gipro gear indicator,shortened dogbones,LeeHenty CSM kit and stainless bits,Topsellerie seat,MRA Xcreen,grip puppies.PC III (dynoed). K&N airfilter,Fenda extenda.
Posted 20 May 2020 - 10:55 am
Presumably the tensioner has now done its job? But Id still put a new one in.....
My thoughts too.
How many miles on the chain ? I changed one at 100,000 miles and it was not too bad. I changed another at 60,000miles and it was alright. in both cases there was slack, which affects valve timing, but it's worth a couple of degrees crank rotation at the most.
If you have the old style change to the new one, job done.
As for valve shims, the gap often closes up with time. Never going to show up as a problem except when the engine gets really hot, when you'll notice a slight loss of power under load at first, so it's worth at least checking them if you have no other way of knowing when they were last checked
900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile
Posted 20 May 2020 - 11:07 am
Posted 20 May 2020 - 11:43 am
I'd go for changing the tensioner only, as:
- it's a known problem
- it takes 15 minutes (as opposed to a full valve/chain job)
- it's relatively cheap
- I'd hate listening to that sound (you would not wait until it's permanent if you're afraid of what might happen)
- TDMs chains are usually running longer (my MKI has 113,000kms on orig. chain - no noise)
Posted 20 May 2020 - 12:16 pm
Current toys: '99 XT600E, 2000 4TX, '82 Princess 30DS (where the username comes from), No longer a '03 Fazer thou.
Save the planet, it's the only one with beer!
Posted 20 May 2020 - 12:50 pm
I'd do CCT and clearance check only, camchain is a big job for 45,000miles.
Is it such a big job, though?
I mean obviously it's nothing to be sniffed at, but if the cams are already out for the shims, is it so much more work to drop a new chain in?
And that's not me being facetious: I don't know the full procedure but from the little the mechanic told me it's not "engine out" territory.
Posted 20 May 2020 - 01:16 pm
There is a reason for the updated CCT - the original had problems due to the plunger sticking in the short body. The new one has the same part number but the last numbers on the original 5PS1221010 - 00 denote the early one. Unless someone sells you old stock with the - 00 then the 5PS1221010 is the new part for you. The engine was never subject to a recall so I'd be surprised if a dealer would give it free because Yamaha won't pay them for it.
Dealers only replaced the part under the Manufacturer's warranty if there was a noise - at 45,000 miles (on the clock) I would suck it up and change for the newer one for peace of mind. They have been known to jump teeth and they will run 2 teeth out without the valves hitting the piston - if it jumps 3 - well.....................
If it's a cost thing (understandably) then get a used one with the longer body - as far as I'm aware the superceded CCT causes no problem.
Edited by dandywarhol, 20 May 2020 - 01:19 pm.
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, 2014 Kawasaki W800, 2011 Aprilia Tuono 1000 V4, 2020 Yamaha XSR900
"At the cutting edge of technophobia"
Posted 20 May 2020 - 02:54 pm
There is a reason for the updated CCT - the original had problems due to the plunger sticking in the short body. The new one has the same part number but the last numbers on the original 5PS1221010 - 00 denote the early one. Unless someone sells you old stock with the - 00 then the 5PS1221010 is the new part for you. The engine was never subject to a recall so I'd be surprised if a dealer would give it free because Yamaha won't pay them for it.
Dealers only replaced the part under the Manufacturer's warranty if there was a noise - at 45,000 miles (on the clock) I would suck it up and change for the newer one for peace of mind. They have been known to jump teeth and they will run 2 teeth out without the valves hitting the piston - if it jumps 3 - well.....................
If it's a cost thing (understandably) then get a used one with the longer body - as far as I'm aware the superceded CCT causes no problem.
Well, it is a cost thing and it isn't:
I mean, I'd rather the bike shop pay under their used bike warranty, but don't fancy having the bike make the noise more and more often, Sod's Law intervening in such a way that it went away the moment I turned into the dealer's carpark and eventually something goes wrong, or it's 2 weeks before our planned departure and the workshop is fully booked!
So, probably, I'm going to just get it done. It helps to get other opinions to see if I'm being unnecessarily impatient, or unwisely risky in what I'm thinking.
My take here is leaving it and waiting, now that it's started making noises is probably not a good idea.
Edited by SeizedBalt, 20 May 2020 - 04:06 pm.
Posted 20 May 2020 - 03:18 pm
Fit a new one, peace of mind is everything. Just ask Dabbers.
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users