Rear End Scraping, Squeaking Noise
#1
Posted 13 May 2020 - 06:51 pm
Just noticed a new sound on my 2004 900 35,000
Seems slow manoeuvre in first gives a strange scraping/squeaking sound. Not constant but it's there.
It happens also when bike is free wheeling in neutral but more pronounced when given slight throttle, it disappears once the bike is shifting. Cant replicate it with bike on stand. It's not the usual.clutch noise which is common.
I rarely use the rear brake, so have been out and used it heavily incase something is blocked in there but to no avail.
I'm not great with mechanics but wondered if anyone has any thoughts? The rear wheel has no movement as I thought maybe bearings
Any help would be appreciated
#2
Posted 13 May 2020 - 07:04 pm
Daft question but the chain is nice and slack isn't it, so that when the wheels are on the ground and you're sat on it there's still some slack ?
900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile
#3
Posted 13 May 2020 - 07:14 pm
#4
Posted 13 May 2020 - 07:24 pm
Rear wheel not lined up perhaps ?
Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !! Now owned by chrisbee ! Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah ! Photos of my first MK1 Photos of my MK2a TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan
#5
Posted 13 May 2020 - 07:24 pm
I've not checked the slackness whilst sitting. Would this still effect even with the bike in neutral and costing?
Could do. As the suspension compresses down the chain tightens up
900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile
#6
Posted 13 May 2020 - 07:41 pm
Rear wheel not lined up perhaps ?
Thought about that earlier today, will check it tomorrow
#7
Posted 13 May 2020 - 08:13 pm
#8
Posted 13 May 2020 - 09:02 pm
The usual advice is to not trust the markers for wheel alignment.
Do a proper check using string, a pair of long straight bits of wood or, my favoured method, a pair of old fluorescent light tubes. A centre stand is good, a paddock stand best, to support the back end upright.
#9
Posted 14 May 2020 - 09:27 am
Dixon, check the rear brake disc is not warped and rubbing.
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php
#10
Posted 14 May 2020 - 10:57 am
I'd be checking the following in order of likelihood:
- Chain tension is as per the manual.
- Front & rear sprocket for wear and damage.
- Chain for any bad tight spots (small tight spots won't be an issue, that seems pretty normal on most chains).
- Rear disc for warpage and rear caliper for correct operation.
- Rear wheel and sprocket carrier bearings. Get the back end off the ground, take the chain of the rear sprocket, tighten up the axle again and listen/feel for any grinding noise, or play - there shouldn't be any. Removing the rear caliper may be necessary, so you know you're just hearing the wheel bearings,not the pads rubbing.
All the above is pretty straightforward, you'll only need a few basic tools to do the job. You'll need a workshop manual though, do a search for JBX's website on here to download a copy.
2002 TDM900 in glorious yellow, NOW SOLD
2012 Honda Crosstourer VFR1200X. Hyperspeed tourer.
1990 XTZ750 in black, standard apart from Micron silencer. Mechanical restoration complete, cosmetic restoration next on the agenda.. NOW SOLD
Follow me on twitter
#11
Posted 14 May 2020 - 04:57 pm
Thinks: no noise on stand, so what is different to slow riding? Howzabout the road surface - not flat so the suspension is moving?
Check the rear suspension linkage, shock bushes and the swingarm bearings. See advice on here if you have not greased the frame-mounted pivot collar and can't get it out!
#12
Posted 14 May 2020 - 05:12 pm
Sounds like the sprocket carrier bearing. If there's no rear wheel bearing movement then check for play by rocking the sprocket - it shouldn't rock!
1967 Yamaha TD1C 250, 2014 Kawasaki W800, 2011 Aprilia Tuono 1000 V4, 2020 Yamaha XSR900
"At the cutting edge of technophobia"
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users