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Rear Linkage


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#1 graeme

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Posted 30 July 2011 - 10:13 am

A bit of a warning really. As per the other post about the chain, i did the rear suspension linkages today. Bike is just over 2 yo with 33000kms. I dont use a pressure cleaner, rarely ride in rain, bike is always undercover and since new have reguarly wd40'd the linkages (externally obviously).
But when i pulled it apart today the two bolts holding the links had quite a bit of corrosion on them and needless to say were dry.
Cost cutting by Yamaha perhaps but you would think that grease was not that expensive---
Anyway, the warning is to do them, i dunno, yearly?
cheers Graeme

PS, no wonder you have trouble with seizures etc in UK with all that crap off the wet roads etc

Edited by graeme, 30 July 2011 - 10:14 am.


#2 Xr600

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Posted 30 July 2011 - 10:49 am

-Sounds bad sad.gif... How hard is it to pull it apart ?. I mean, greasing up the sleeves is the dansy job I suppose... ?!.

#3 ChrisG

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Posted 30 July 2011 - 11:03 am

If you've got a centrestand or an Abba it's pretty easy, only took 10 mins or so when I swapped my dogbones. I found a few bits of wood wedged under the rear wheel so I could stand on the other end and lift the wheel up made lining it all up again really easy.

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#4 graeme

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Posted 30 July 2011 - 11:59 am

QUOTE(Xr600 @ Sat 30th Jul 2011, 08:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
-Sounds bad sad.gif... How hard is it to pull it apart ?. I mean, greasing up the sleeves is the dansy job I suppose... ?!.



Like Chris says, no drama. I put wood under the rear wheel, just enough to take weight, it all undid easily and pins came out by hand. 14 and 17mm spanners needed, 2 of each.
Graeme

#5 Xr600

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Posted 30 July 2011 - 01:01 pm

Think I may have to to this before my holiday... Any advice on which type og grease to use ?. I have 'normal' bearing grease from Mobil that I use for 'everyday' stuff, maybe that will do ?. NLGI 2, I think it is... Think I will lube the pivot-bolt for the rear swingarm. On my old XR 600 I had to use a disc grinder, and a very big hammer, in order to remove it.





#6 ChrisG

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Posted 30 July 2011 - 02:16 pm

I just smothered everything in standard LM grease.

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#7 Trotski

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Posted 30 July 2011 - 11:21 pm

this should be part of the regular Yamaha service program shouldn't it ?
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#8 TDMTAM

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Posted 30 July 2011 - 11:28 pm

QUOTE(Trotski @ Sun 31st Jul 2011, 12:21 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
this should be part of the regular Yamaha service program shouldn't it ?

if you call spraying the bolt heads with white LM grease, then yes.
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#9 DazzerB

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Posted 31 July 2011 - 06:33 am

QUOTE(TDMTAM @ Sun 31st Jul 2011, 12:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
if you call spraying the bolt heads with white LM grease, then yes.
TAM


Looks like that's all that's been done to mine, and I specifically asked the mechanic to lube the bearings.

Just had a look at mine yesterday whilst fitting a newly required centre stand, and the lower dogbone bearings and collar are completely w*nked ranting.gif . Need to get some new ones, lots of loose rollers and heavily pitted collar tdown.gif .

#10 DazzerB

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Posted 31 July 2011 - 06:33 am

QUOTE(TDMTAM @ Sun 31st Jul 2011, 12:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
if you call spraying the bolt heads with white LM grease, then yes.
TAM


Looks like that's all that's been done to mine, and I specifically asked the mechanic to lube the bearings.

Just had a look at mine yesterday whilst fitting a newly required centre stand, and the lower dogbone bearings and collar are completely w*nked ranting.gif . Need to get some new ones, lots of loose rollers and heavily pitted collar tdown.gif .

#11 graeme

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Posted 31 July 2011 - 10:32 am

QUOTE(Xr600 @ Sat 30th Jul 2011, 11:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Think I may have to to this before my holiday... Any advice on which type og grease to use ?. I have 'normal' bearing grease from Mobil that I use for 'everyday' stuff, maybe that will do ?. NLGI 2, I think it is... Think I will lube the pivot-bolt for the rear swingarm. On my old XR 600 I had to use a disc grinder, and a very big hammer, in order to remove it.



Any grease better than none i would suggest. The lithium grease that is specified just gives a better resistance to water, its used in boats etc.
graeme

#12 Xr600

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Posted 31 July 2011 - 10:50 am


Another question before I begin The manual states 150 nm. torque for the rear wheel axle bolt. Do you guys strictly keep to that ?. My torque wrench tops at 120 nm... However, I would be surpised if the las 30 nm. would do any real difference ?!. Opinions ?!.


#13 graeme

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Posted 31 July 2011 - 11:30 am

QUOTE(Xr600 @ Sun 31st Jul 2011, 08:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Another question before I begin The manual states 150 nm. torque for the rear wheel axle bolt. Do you guys strictly keep to that ?. My torque wrench tops at 120 nm... However, I would be surpised if the las 30 nm. would do any real difference ?!. Opinions ?!.



I think you would be about right but just add a bit more pressure if you wanted too. I never worry about that for things like axles but think about what you are doing and dont leave it loose and dont do it so tight it stretches the thread or needs a breaker bar to undo.
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#14 FrDougal

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 08:55 am

Hi Folks,
I had a search but can't find a thread showing how to remove and service the linkage on a 9er. Mine's 9 years old, 90,000klms and I doubt if they have ever been done. I inspected them recently and they are moving freely on the lugs but wanna dismantle and do a cood clean-up and re-grease or replace if necessary.

Thanks in Advance
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#15 dapleb

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 09:09 am

http://www.carpe-tdm.....lite=+linkage

In common stylee the pics (hosted outside Carpe since the Gallery is bust) are now dead links, unless the 900 lower linkage is white and has a little red cross in the top left corner.
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#16 FrDougal

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 09:21 am

QUOTE(dapleb @ Sat 3rd Mar 2012, 09:09 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
http://www.carpe-tdm.....lite=+linkage

In common stylee the pics (hosted outside Carpe since the Gallery is bust) are now dead links, unless the 900 lower linkage is white and has a little red cross in the top left corner.

Cheers dapleb. Had a nosey around there, looks getting the sleeve out of the front part will be the challenge. Just wondering, are the bearings loose needle bearings that I have to take out individually?

#17 Rallyist

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 10:49 am

QUOTE(FrDougal @ Sat 3rd Mar 2012, 09:21 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Cheers dapleb. Had a nosey around there, looks getting the sleeve out of the front part will be the challenge. Just wondering, are the bearings loose needle bearings that I have to take out individually?

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#18 cortez

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 11:45 am

Reading through the owners manual when I first bought my bike, I noticed the torque figure of 150nm for the axle bolt and felt it seemed extreme, so asked a Yamaha mechanic what he thought. His opinion was that 150nm was ridiculous, that around 100nm was plenty. So around 100nm is what I've been using ever since, 58,000k's so far without an issue.

#19 FrDougal

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 06:19 pm

My TDM is 9 years old, I have it 2 years and clocked up 40,000klms since I got it (Over 90K on the clock now). The most I have ever done is a visual inspection of the linkage from the outside.

So inspired by some info on Carpe TDM, I decided to tackle the linkage today.

I go stuck into a full service, oil, plugs, filters, cleaning calipers and eventually after much procrastination I got started on the linkage.

One of the main points, you need a centre stand or some kind of a bike lift, you can't use a rear paddock stand as you have to take the weight off the back suspension.

Tools needed: sizes 14 and 17 sockets and spanners.
A puller (You will see my bodge later)
Some good cleaner (I used Kerosene)
Grease
Gloves (It's a very dirty job)
Toothbrush and rags
(If you can, I would suggest power'washing the linkage befor starting, I didn't )

So, bike on centre stand.
Support the back wheel


Undo the three nuts seen in this photo and the one at the top of the dogbones in the next photo. The ones on the top and bottom of the dogbones are size 17, the others are size 14. You may need to put a spanner on the back of then if the bolts start turning.




All four bolts should pull out from the right hand side easily. Dogbones will come off and the linkage will be hanging from the two lugs on the frame, even though the bolt is out.
Here's the thing, the holes in the lugs are fifferent sizes. One is the size of the bolt, the other is larger, cos there is a sleeve that pushes in through the larger side and this can get stuck.


So the key to getting the sleeve out is not a lump hammer, you could break off the lugs on the frame and you are in big trouble then.

To get them out you need a puller. After a quick chat with a looney mate. I nipped to the hardware and got an M6 rawl bolt and some different sized washers. I used this to pull the sleeve out the right hand side of the bike. The reason for the different sized washers are to leave enough space for the sleeve to pull out through the holes in the big washers.





You can see the "puller", washers and sleeve in this photo


So here is everything cleaned up externally and ready to clean the bearings. Clean externally with a paintbrush and Kerosene, while the bearing sleeves are still in place to keep crud from getting into the bearings.


Then remove the three sleeves and clean and inspect the bearings. To clean them, I used a clean rag wrapped around the head of a toothbrush and dampened slightly with Kerosene. All bearings looked in good condition and sleeves turned smoothly. Then cleaned and dried again with a dry part of the cloth and packed all of the bearings with clean grease. (I used Maxol EP2 grease)


Not forgetting to do the same with the bearings on the swingarm


Then re-assemble everything





Jobs a good-un

Edited by FrDougal, 03 March 2012 - 06:24 pm.


#20 dablik

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Posted 04 March 2012 - 11:34 am

Fergie nice job,,, no full marks sorry,, cos ya never cleaned ya shock ohmy.gif laugh.gif

Edit,,, btw did you use heat while removing that collar or was the rawl bolt fine on it's own.

Edited by dablik, 04 March 2012 - 11:38 am.

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