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No Headlight Or Horn But Have Indicators When Wet?


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#1 Grendel

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 03:40 pm

I bought my 1991 Mk1 TDM with a loose connection somewhere than means in cold or damp weather the headlight/sidelight/clock lights & horn tends to not always work so have bought a 2nd hand switch to fit just wondering what else I should check. Already changed bulbs so know it’s not that end. 



#2 Apache

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 04:45 pm

Red/yellow cable supplies light switch / horn and headlight pass switch. If they're all down at the same time check supply 12v + at red/yellow where switch assembly plugs to main harness. If dead check again at fuse box....hth. Test with a bulb of at least 21watt. Multimeter will read 12v even if you have serious corrosion.....good luck with it...

#3 Matt101

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 08:47 pm

Also check your earthing points. Sounds like when they're getting wet they are shorting. But yes your Multi-plugs under the tank where the cables from the handlebars meet the loom are prone to the green gunge. Give them a good clean out and get some sealant in there afterwards. This is good for this job

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#4 Grendel

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 02:26 pm

Interesting took the bike apart including tank off trying to find connection under tank only to find it had been removed and soldered together. Also, the large plug going into wiring loom was difficult to remove and looks like there is a burnt contact? Put new switch on with old one still connected to battery since didn’t have any bullet connector at the time and lights now turn on and work properly but not horn ?

Also wonder why it has 1 burned contact?


Edited by Grendel, 03 January 2018 - 03:20 pm.


#5 Grendel

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 02:32 pm

Admittedly it does have an air horn and some interesting wiring attached.



#6 fixitsan

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 05:57 pm

Regarding the burned connector, the usual causes are too much power being drawn (previous owner spliced in another circuit, such as heated grips or a 12V outlet), and also a dirty connector, which has oxidised and then arcs, or due to the higher resistance starts to heat


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#7 Grendel

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 08:24 pm

Oddly enough it does have a 12V socket wired to the dash as well as the air horn. 

 

Think its time to call in the motorcycle electrician before I totally bugger it up. 


Edited by Grendel, 03 January 2018 - 09:40 pm.


#8 fixitsan

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 09:56 am

Oddly enough it does have a 12V socket wired to the dash as well as the air horn. 

 

Think its time to call in the motorcycle electrician before I totally bugger it up. 

 

The best way to find out, is to check the colour of the wire which has the burned connector with the wiring diagram, to see what it supplies.

 

Your earlier photo shows some fused 12V supplies coming from the battery positive, one of those is most likely going to be supplying the 12V outlet.

 

Your best friend is the wiring diagram and colour code chart


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#9 Grendel

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 12:33 pm

Bikes gone to motorcycle electrician before i break something. THANK YOU for the advice.



#10 fixitsan

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 01:13 pm

Bikes gone to motorcycle electrician before i break something. THANK YOU for the advice.

 

Fingers crossed :)


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#11 Grendel

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 02:15 pm

Well £252 later it should all be fixed. The wiring was in such a crap state most of it had to be replaced. :sorry:

 

Apparently it was all connected directly to battery with no relays or insulated connections.


Edited by Grendel, 04 January 2018 - 02:18 pm.


#12 dablik

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 05:57 pm

Well £252 later it should all be fixed. The wiring was in such a crap state most of it had to be replaced. :sorry:

 

Apparently it was all connected directly to battery with no relays or insulated connections.

 

Ouch,ouch,ouch...............does it work now :huh:


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#13 fixitsan

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 09:48 am

Well £252 later it should all be fixed. The wiring was in such a crap state most of it had to be replaced. :sorry:

 

Apparently it was all connected directly to battery with no relays or insulated connections.

 

 

Wiring replacement, relay installation, hopefully replacement connector pins and a few hours of labour. That seems a fair price actually.....considering that the other alternative could have been that you were stranded in the middle of nowhere, when an important wire broke free.....


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#14 Grendel

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 09:52 am

Got bike back this morning. Things seem to work now but still need to put it back together and give it a test run once the speedo cable arrives. They had to rebuild the horn and 12V Socket looms they also pressure washed it to test for water getting on contacts. 

 

Didn't realise it was £60 to get it picked up and dropped back so could of saved some money there had I realised and ridden it to them but didn't think you can ride bike with all fairing removed.

 

Otherwise £6 parts and 3 hours labour. Plus VAT = £252 


Edited by Grendel, 05 January 2018 - 09:57 am.


#15 dablik

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 09:55 am

Bit of a tough break i would say, if you need the bike for transport then it needs to be fixed asap, hope all is good now.


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

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#16 Nog

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 10:29 am

t didn't think you can ride bike with all fairing removed.

 

As long as all the relevant lights/indicators etc are on it and working it shouldn't matter.

 

Just pretend it's been "streetfightered" ;)



#17 fixitsan

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 10:53 am


 

Otherwise £6 parts and 3 hours labour. Plus VAT = £252 

 

 

I stand corrected, and reminded that i chose the wrong career once again.

 

Doctor, dentist, autoelectrician..... the list goes on


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#18 Grendel

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 11:42 am

 

 

I stand corrected, and reminded that i chose the wrong career once again.

 

Doctor, dentist, autoelectrician..... the list goes on

To be fair £60 was collection & drop off charge.

 

Just taken off the stupid exhaust tape as well since all it did was soak up water and make the bike steam. Thankfully pipes underneath are SS although very discoloured but not rusty. Just waiting on WEMOTO delivery of new speedo cable before i put it all back together again.


Edited by Grendel, 05 January 2018 - 11:44 am.


#19 Matt101

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Posted 09 January 2018 - 04:03 pm

Burnt out pin would be explained by the lack of relay for the horn. Airhorn would take 10-15amps at most and that would be WAY too much for those pins hence the burn out. Fittting a louder horn would usually involve using the existing feed to the horn to feed the relay switch live and then from battery to new horn via the relay. 12v socket can be either ignition switched or direct to the battery. I wired mine direct to allow me to use the 12v socket to charge the battery. Saves removing the seat all the time!

 

But as others have said it seems about the going rate for garages these days. Luckily I know a bit about electrics in general so can do most myself.

 

Glad it's sorted.


Edited by Matt101, 09 January 2018 - 04:05 pm.



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